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Range Rods

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I use a solid 36" brass range rod for my flintlock's 33½ inch, .50 caliber barrel... and it really seats the balls down good on the powder due to it's surprisingly heavy weight. I'd hate to carry it in the field, but at the range, the heavier metal rod is worth it's weight in... ah... er... ummm... BRASS!~!~! :rotf:

Seriously, the heavier solid range rods do a nice job... and that extra weight comes in handy when the barrel starts getting a bit dirty. :)

Strength & Honor...

Ron T.
 
Scott: I NEVER recommend "packing " the ball on the powder. EVER! When you have a load your gun shoots well, MARK your Ramrod, and "load to the mark"! I use the hand over hand method of pulling the rod down into the barrel. If you Bounce the rod, or Pack the ball with a few "taps", you only distort the shape of the ball.

This is NOT evident for most shooters at only 25 yds. And for others, its hardly noticeable in the groups they shoot at 50 yard. But, everyone seems to be able to see the difference when we move the targets back to 100 yds. Off the Bench rest.

The president of my local gun club, years ago, was a " Bouncer", with his .45, and he shot reasonably well at 25 and 50 yd targets. But when we put those targets out at 100 yds., he could barely keep the balls on a 12 inch square paper. He tried to alibi everything but the truth. After a couple of months, and he had practiced shooting at 100 yds a lot, and adjusted his ball/patch/lube combination to his satisfaction( he did shoot smaller groups at 50 yds), he said he was ready to kick some butts. Again, he could not keep the balls on the paper.

We finally got him to sit down on the bench, and shoot the gun at 100 yds., carefully. He hit the paper, but you would not call it a "group". So, finally, he let another long time member of the club clean and load HIS rifle for him. The gun was cleaned well, then loaded to the mark, without the bouncing. The first shot was a "9". The second shot was a " 10", about 1 inch from the first shot. The third shot was a "10" next to the second shot. He could not believe it- or didn't want to admit he had been the cause of his poor shooting performance. We put up a new target, and this time, He loaded his gun, and cleaned it, The Way the older member told him to do it. I think he shot two "9s" and a "10-X". He was NOT the only member standing around watching and learning about how to seat those soft lead balls, or the need to clean between shots. I saw a lot less " Bouncing" rods when I served my stints as " Range officer" at the club, after that.

The only time I PUSH the rod down the barrel is when I am sending a cleaning patch down the barrel to clean out the crud. I use my Range rod for this purpose. It has a nylon muzzle Protector about the only exception I regularly use to being as primitive as possible. If I am in the field with only my hickory ramrod, I use the hand over hand method, with my lower hand guiding the rod into the muzzle. This protects the wood from scraping against the edge of the muzzle, and makes it impossible to break a rod.

I don't shove a Ramrod, without a muzzle guide/protector, down the barrel under any circumstances. If you want to shoot fast repeat shots, use a modern cartridge rifle. This is a single shot Sport. It is one thing to be efficient at cleaning and reloading these guns: its quite another to think you can do it "fast". Get " Fast" out of your brain, and you will have a lot more fun.

I was hunting with some pheasant hunters with my BP shotgun, and they grumbled when I told them to hold up while I cleaned and reloaded my shotgun. Then they came over to watch! When I got done, and we finished the hunt later, they all said this was the first hunt they could remember where they simply relaxed and enjoyed "being there". Having to wait on me- not long, mind you-- to clean and reload my gun allowed them to catch their wind, rest their leg muscles. and just look around at the country we were hunting. They found my reloading entertaining, as several of them did not reload shotgun shells, and had no idea how it was done.

If you clean the barrel properly between shots, you should not need to use two hands on the rod to shove the PRB down the barrel. The hand over hand method allows you to FEEL the crud in the barrel, and when you pull the rod out of the gun, where the cleaning patch blouses out, and is both grabbed by the jag, and fills the grooves, you can feel the crud breaking free and being carried out the muzzle with the patch. If I have let the barrel cool after firing a shot, so that the crud is really "glued" to the bore, I expect my first damp patch to begin to dissolve the crud, but I generally will run two damp patches down the barrel, followed by a dry patch, to clean it between shots under those circumstances. I can usually get by with just one damp patch if I clean the barrel right after the shot, except on very hot, humid days around here. Then, I may need two damp patches, and TWO dry patches to prepare the barrel for the next load of powder.

The patches tell the story, if you simply take the time to learn to read those patches. Some of the men at my gun club began making a habit of asking me how many patches I was using on a given day, and then mimicking me. They admitted that they had less trouble with their guns, and their scores were a lot higher if they followed my example. They just didn't have the confidence I had in reading their patches. I tried to show them each time they noted I was changing, so they would see what I saw and felt on the cleaning patches that came out of my barrel. After a couple of years, they stopped asking. And they began to be asked by the new shooters about why they used the number of patches and why, etc..... :hmm: :thumbsup:
 
really appreciate all the good advice. Thanks! We must be doing something wrong 'cuz the .535 balls w/ .015 patches (prelubed) are hard to get down. Scared were gonna snap a rod almost every time. Is this just new guy syndrome or do you think theres a problem?
 
When new all my GPRs have been "tight." The .015/.535 combo was really tight, and the .018/.535 combo was just about impossible. I went to a .015/.530 combo for reasonable seating in both 54's. After a couple of hundred shots it started seeming to be loose, so I switched to .018/.530, and it came back to what I consider normal seating effort. After several thousand shots now, it's getting a little looser with that combo, but when I've tried .018/.535 it's still taking more effort than I like.

While the gun's new, I'd just go with a .015/.530 combo and get to shooting. I'd recommend that over a .010/.535 combo because that thin patch is pretty tender, even if the seating effort is similar.

BTW- The third one is a 50, and you can substitute what I said about .535 vs .530 balls and say .495 vs .490 and the same patch combos for similar results.
 
my son (13) can only seat the.535/.010 combo w/out my help, his patches we've found are pretty much gone, just a shred left of em, also hes having trouble shooting a descent group at 50 yds.Weve been up and down in powder charge and just cant seem to find it for him. Maybe too thin a patch is causing at least some of his trouble. Oh yeah, the gun is brand new.
 
just a shred left of em

That is definatly why. You can try a lubed bore button betwen the powder and patch, that might stop the shredding of patches although, .010 patch is awful thin and I try to use at least a .015 thickness. I do use a .010 but only on top of a fiber wad in a smoothie. If it were me, listen to Brownbear and go with .530 ball and thicker patch.
 
My wife is still pretty timid about loading her 54 cal Lyman, even after years of shooting it. The .015/.530 combo was her standard till we ran out of those patches she was forced to switch to .018 ticking. By then she'd shot it enough that it really wasn't a problem to go to the heavier patch, but she sniveled a little anyway. Then she saw the first target and how much tighter the group was. No more sniveling!
 
:haha: That'll change ones mind pretty quick.

As far as range rods I have a nice one same as that described in the first post. I take to the range everytime I go but I found I used it less and less with loading my guns. This is a game of repetition we play and I like going through the motions of using guns ramrod, loading the load, then replacing the guns ramrod before priming and shooting. I'm not a serious paper puncher and everything I do I do with hunting in mind, so I know exactly what to expect when out in the field. The range rod is used for cleaning.
 
I store my rifles with the original wood rods, but when shooting I have 2 that I use. A nylon rod is used mostly. I also have a converted range rod that I cut to length and drilled out for tips thats made of brass. Looks cool but makes for a heavy gun. It is great at ramming tight balls though.
 
Try using .530" diameter balls. That is what is more typically used by shooters. Use a .015" or .018" patch with that smaller diameter ball. The .535" ball works in some guns, but for most, it takes a stiff blow to the short starter to get them seated in the muzzle. Once seated, the ball has deformed enough that it should slide down a CLEAN barrel fairly easily. If you pull the ball without shooting it, you will see that there is a small "flat " side to the ball that shows the lands and grooves, with the pattern of the fabric impressed in the soft lead. Viewed from the side, the RB now looks a bit oval. A lot of target shooters like the larger diameter ball, although few target shooters are shooting as heavy a ball as the .54 cal. Most use oversized balls in .40, .45, and some in .50 caliber barrels. Go to a Chunk Gun Match and watch what those shooters are loading. :thumbsup: :hmm: :shocked2:
 
my son (13) can only seat the.535/.010 combo w/out my help, his patches we've found are pretty much gone, just a shred left of em, also hes having trouble shooting a descent group at 50 yds.Weve been up and down in powder charge and just cant seem to find it for him. Maybe too thin a patch is causing at least some of his trouble. Oh yeah, the gun is brand new.

The standard advice for this problem is to just shoot it 300 to 400 times. :shocked2: That may be fine for some but the fact is you and your 13 year old are about certain to just give the whole thing up before then and go back to suppository guns. :)

The next most popular solution is to lap your bore with steel wool or some other abrasive on a patch. This will help. You can also cast a lead slug in the bore on a rod and work the bore with an abrasive applied to the patch to smooth it. You will need to recast the lead slug occasionally.

My own recommendation is to firelap the barrel. This is done using a firelap compound (not valve grinding compound or any other home concoction. You can get a firelap kit from Midway. It has three grits. For a ml gun just use the coarsest grit. Save the other two for fine finishing. You can also get firelapping compound from Lead Bullet Technology and from NECO . Just follow the instructions.

Roll 20 Hornady hollow base Great Plains .54 caliber bullets in the compound per the instructions. Remove the lube from the bullets first. Go to the range or whereever you shoot and shoot all 20 bullets with about 40 grains of powder. Be sure to wipe with a wet patch and then a dry patch between shots When you get done, clean your barrel throughly.

Next, you need to improve the crown on your barrel. You can recrown it yourself by hand or you can cone it with a coning tool.
 
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