removing problem barrel pin

[roundball]

If the underbarrel pin tenon is steel, is there no chance that the pin could become tacked in place in the tenon's pin hole as well?

 

[Birddog6]

Sure it could.

I tried it with a wire welder. Made about 4 attempts on 3 pins (the left 3, no pin in #4 hole.

I was able to get the 2 middle pins out after many attempts. Ended up turning the welder up all the way, charging the gun & then touching the wire & it arcs enough to pull connect them.

I tried on & off & with trigger or welder switch, instantly melts the wire, regardless of the setting.

But the welder up all the way, hit the trigger, let off, hit the pin immediately finally worked & got 2 out of 3 pins out.

Now if the pins are rusted in or in real tight, I doubt this will work. as these still were hard to pull out & these are new pins & fresh holes & the pin went in the hole real easy.

Note: If underlug pin is not touching the underlug, you won't be able to arc to it at all.


Keith Lisle

 

[J.D.]

Lots of good ideas here. Has anyone thought of going in through the RR channel?

Might clip the pins off close to the lug with a die sinkers chisel. Then use a small Allen wrench to push out one side of the pin, then go in through the bottom of the barrel channel to remove the rest of the pin. Glue in a repair, redrill, a little finish, and your done.

Alternatively, using a small, sharp punch similar to a scratch awl or a graver, go in from the RR channel and using light taps of the hammer, drive the pin out from the middle. Glue in a patch, in the event of damage to the RR channel, redrill, a little finish and your done.

God bless

 

[Birddog6]

If the pin is in between the entrypipe & the lock, I don't think going thru the RR hole will work, unless you remove allof ot wood & that will be a real issue if not impossible up thru the entryhole.. The underlug will be up above the RR hole.

Myself................ :idunno: I would try the wire welder trick like I did & if it works it does & if it don't you dig it out & use a escutcheon plate. :hmm:

Valuable lesson learned here he sure won't forget. :shocked2:

 

[Capt. Fred]

Wow, cool test Keith. Maybe we're onto something! :thumbsup:

I had assumed that it was the pin in the forearm too, so I don't think you could get to it from below.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

brilliant :thumbsup:

 

[Birddog6]

I wonder if you had a really strong magnet, take a short piece of pin & put against the existing pin, put magnet to it & thu magnetizing the pins, take some metal dust from filing & sprinkle on the other side, if they pin is close to the edge of the wood, possibly the metal dust will stick at the pin location. Drill to meet pin ? Punch it out ? If ya miss you are going to end up with a escutcheon plate there to cover it anyway.

Another thing that may find it is this lil elcheapo stud finder/indicator. This pin is down in the wood about 1/8" or so.

Off the pin to the right.

Over the pin, as you go over it the pointer goes vertical indicating the pin location.

:thumbsup:

Keith Lisle

 

[matt denison]

I had to deal with a similar problem when a fellow of "inadequate experience" drilled a blind hole to pin his trigger. The trigger HAD to come out eventually to make it work correctly. I tried a stud finder but it gave me a half inch window of possibillity on the far side. That wasn't going to work. Soooo, with some very careful measuring with a digital caliper I located where the pin should be on the far side and drilled carefully with a #70 drill bit, hit the pin first try, drove it out and then redrilled and pinned the trigger with an oversize pin. He thought I was a hero but little did he know that I was just lucky.

 

[Capt. Fred]

I like the magnet and metal filings idea Keith. If that would work, you really would have it's location narrowed down so you could drill a hole.

I joked to my wife (she's a nurse practitioner) that if she could get me a free moment with a tech and the MRI, we could strap the gun down and turn the MRI on a suck the pin out! I guess those things are heck on someone who's got an old piece of shrapnel or a steel BB in them. :shocked2:

 

[Birddog6]

:rotf: :rotf: Yes, and suck whatever else out that may have been loose too !! :rotf: :rotf:

I don't know if you could wind a electromagnet on a 1/16" punch & it be strong enough to pull a pin or not. Prob take a heck of a pull unless it was a loose pin when it went in. :hmm:

 

[J.D.]

If the pin is in between the entrypipe & the lock, I don't think going thru the RR hole will work, unless you remove allof ot wood & that will be a real issue if not impossible up thru the entryhole.. The underlug will be up above the RR hole.

Yep, right you are. Had a senior moment there. :v

I like the idea of the magnet, 'cause not everyone has access to a welder, but suspect that either way, there is gonna be an escutcheon inlayed when the pin comes out.

God bless

 

[fitter]

How about using the spike on the drill pres? With careful layout, drill down to the pin, remove from press then push it through. Do the layout off the top of the barrel.

 

[Birddog6]

And how do you know that pin went in straight ?

 

[fitter]

Depends how he drilled the hole.Only he knows.If stock was square when drilled and a drill press was used, I think you might be able to hit it. OP should have an idea about how straight the hole is.

 

[Dave K]

Inguiring minds need to know. Is this pin out yet?

 

[J.D.]

If the pin is in between the entrypipe & the lock, I don't think going thru the RR hole will work, unless you remove allof ot wood & that will be a real issue if not impossible up thru the entryhole.. The underlug will be up above the RR hole.

Another thought, if all else fails, go in through the bottom of the forestock and RR hole to clip the pin with a die sinker chisel, then install a wear plate.

Probably the most simple method for removing pins from blind holes, for most people, is to file saw teeth on the end of a small diameter steel tube, with the ID of the tube just large enough to fit over the pin. "Drill" down, over the pin to expose the end of the pin so's it can be gripped and pulled out with forceps.

Using the existing hole, complete the pin hole in the stock, inlet a patch on the enlarged end of the hole, drill from the other side, and inlet an escutcheon.

Oh, and please do let us know how you get it out.

God bless

 

[Rogue River]

The suspence is killing me! :grin:

 

[LRB]

I would just drive it on through. I did three like that on a cheapo import with poor wood with minimal damage. As was mentioned, use a wood backstop. I didn't bother with a backstop, and it still didn't raise but a few fine splinters. Any damage should be very minor, and could be touched up.

 

[ohio ramrod]

Do you know anyone with a verticle mill? (bridge poert type). What I have done with simular problems is to alighn the gun precisly and take a fine center cutting end mill and mill out the pin,with a plunge cut. And then finish drilling through. Then you can use a larger size pin. You will need to alighn the rifle precisely and clamp the gun on the mill table with proper padding. A touchy but possible thing to do.

 

[Birddog6]

That would work if you knew the pin is exactly 90 degrees to the barrel. No way of knowing that, as it is a 1/16" pin & the bit could have easily bowed when he drilled it. Unless he set it up on a jig & precisely drilled it when he built it, & drilled very slowly & didn't hit a hard spot & didn't catch the edge of the lug & bow it & & & & ...... :idunno: Allot of &'s. :hmm:

Keith Lisle