Repairing Tack Holes in a Stock

[Hawk54]

Using epoxy or any other product and you have created another spot that will not take stain like the rest of the stock. Just like the toothpicks and the end grain mentioned above.

Steam it and then use the dust from the same stock while using stain applied with scotch-brite pads or very fine sand paper is my advice.

I agree. The epoxy would create small spots that wouldn't take stain. I can see if you can match the wood color with the epoxy mix but that would be tough to get right.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Interesting topic. We’ve had a couple of threads over the past year about putting tacks in, but that tack design that is big medicine to the fellow who put it in is an eyesore when he tries to sell the gun. Sort of reminds me of the old folk tale about the crone who sold love potions… The potion was cheap. It was the antidote that was expensive.

Tacks don’t drive well into hardwoods. I think a lot of people who tack their hard maple stocks end up boring slightly undersized pilot holes, and I doubt these would steam shut. I would agree with brothers @deerstalkert and @necchi in their previous comments. Steaming might help with the compression rings, but the holes will likely need to be filled. Toothpick fillers will present an end grain that will absorb stain differently from the edge or flat grain of the stock.

If it were me, I might try to steam the rings, or I might just try scraping the stock to remove them. I guess I would need to have the stock in my hands to make that decision. I would test my stain and finish inside the barrel channel, and then try to match the color with a shellac stick. Bear in mind, if you test your stain under the buttplate, you’ll be working with endgrain and it might not take stain like the rest of the stock. I would then fill the holes with a shellac stick, complete final sanding, and finish. The problem might be getting your hands on a set of shellac sticks. You won’t need much, but you’ll need a full set of them to find which color works best. I have a set that’s older than I am. My dad bought them, probably in the 1930’s. However, this is precisely the type of job that shellac sticks were intended for. You need an alcohol burner and a palette knife with a thin, flexible blade. If used properly, they work great.

My advice is worth about what you paid for it, and you have lots of other good suggestions to try. I hope you’ll follow up and let us see the results of your efforts. You might just find the antidote to that potion.

Best regards,

Notchy Bob

 

[COTNTOP]

I took a sander with a dust bag and caught walnut particles from several ventures. I take the sawdust and mix kinda thick with a little oil finish then pack holes while sanding in the oil.

 

[BozoMiller]

There is so much great info in this thread. Thanks to everyone that gave advise.

 

[Snydly]

A crayon of the same color. Rub over holes...then steel wool lightly

 

[david w]

I would steam, then use wood filler and refinish the stock. I don't think there's anything you can do to hide those holes. I wouldn't worry about it too much, especially for the price you paid. The most important thing is how does it shoot?

 

[Hawk54]

I would steam, then use wood filler and refinish the stock. I don't think there's anything you can do to hide those holes. I wouldn't worry about it too much, especially for the price you paid. The most important thing is how does it shoot?

Agree. I was never really concerned with them. I was planning on refinishing the stock so I will play around with it to see if I can make the tacky areas look better. Can always put a couple of inlays in. For what I paid for it if it shoots good all is good. I will post pictures of before and after. Currently finishing a CVA .54 mountain rifle that I am completely refinishing. Done with it this week. It had a beat up stock and rusty barrel. Got it cheap. I like to play with projects like that to see if I can bring them back to life.

 

[LRB]

Agree. The more I can raise everything the less sanding I will need to do. I was thinking to use a stripper for the finish. I wonder if I should put toothpicks in the holes to keep the stripper out of them? Keep the wood as natural in the holes as possible.

Steam then burnish with a polished spoon or something similar.

 

[DocMarks]

I’d try steaming but honestly whenever I try and fix minor blems like this the cure is often worse than the original symptom. I’d shy away from toothpicks. The most aggressive I’d go is sawdust filler. Hope steaming works for ya!

 

[toot]

The old time proven rule is ,use a filler the same color as the final color of the stained wood.

you can also use furniture colored crayons on them. I used one on a H.ASTON pistol stock that had a screw hole in the handle where that some one screwed it to a Plack. cant tell it any more, looks like a ding !

 

[TC]

I had a chip out of my matchlock scouring stick. After filling with pc woody epoxy mixed with walnut dust i sanded it flush and smooth. Then using some fine ink and a pencil to i drew the existing grain lines though the repaired area to blend it. Now to stain and finish.

 

[Nameless Hunter]

Depending on the location, you could go the opposite direction and cover up some of the holes with an inlay.
Just a thought...

 

[Hawk54]

Depending on the location, you could go the opposite direction and cover up some of the holes with an inlay.
Just a thought...

My thought also if I can't get them to close enough for my liking. They are along the front sides.

 

[Pioneer flinter]

I have used the following products successfully in patching chips. Mix the the epoxy first- part a and part b. Then add the walnut powder to you get the color to match your stock. Then squeegy it in fully into the tack holes. Let it cure sand and stain or finish. There are different shades of powder u can get.

I pick up some raw umber and red oxide paint tint from my local hardware store. I had them fill two old medicine bottles I had them I add a drop to my epoxy and mix it up. Works great make sure you use a high strength slow set epoxy. They are harder and sand easier.

 

[pwbsmokey]

You could do a wire inlay vine connecting the holes

 

[Frogman88]

I know that I am late to the party for this thread. I opened a link mentioned earlier for supplies (Stewmac). Got sucked in to the guitar repair videos. Went to see his steaming technique. We all know how You Tube can suck you in. There are a lot of tip videos. Just linking this random one. of I can get it to take.

The guy is good.

 

[Eric Krewson]

"I never drill a barrel pin hole in the wrong place" (he says tongue in cheek). I like toothpicks, stain your stock dark and they hardly show. I often blend the curl into patches with leather dye to blur them.

 

[M. De Land]

I picked up a Pedersoli Pennsylvania rifle recently that the owner had decorated with some brass tacks. The tacks were poorly done so I don't want the tacks in the stock. What would be the best way to repair the holes. I was thinking I could strip the finish and then steam the holes like you would to remove dents. The holes might close or close enough that when I sand a stain to refinish the stock the holes wouldn't be noticeable. Anyone else dealt with this before?

Just a thought but what about connecting the holes with an inlay-ed ribbon of silver wire if they made some kind of pattern which is common with tacks.