walruskid1
54 Cal.
- Joined
- Jul 1, 2005
- Messages
- 1,896
- Reaction score
- 19
kroil/hoppes #9 in a 50/50 mix and a good bronze brush! ooh ya! :grin:
-
Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.
We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.
Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103
Rough/rusty bore
- Thread starter danno123
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
You have received good advice here; just to add my thoughts....I would plug your nipple/vent and pour in Kroil, WD-40, kerosene, etc to a point above the rough area and just let it sit overnight, a day, whatever, to soften up the rust. Then do the brush/0000 steel wool polishing bit. That should take out the bigger share of rust. Then proceed with however you are going to finish with, be it fire lapping or just shooting. Good luck! Emery
danno,
My wife gave me a Hawkens .50 2 years ago for Christmas. I believe its the same one you have, made in Spain, no patchbox, possibly for Bass Pro, ect. The barrel was in the exact same condition. I was realy frustrated about it. All I could do was clean the rust the best I could with scotchbrite and W-D and boarbrush. Sighted it in and shot the hoot out of it. Last Dec. 26 took a nice 6 point at 40yrds. when I load her that last 6 inches is rough as a cobb but she still shoots sweet.
Good luck, good hunting, be Blessed
topknot
My wife gave me a Hawkens .50 2 years ago for Christmas. I believe its the same one you have, made in Spain, no patchbox, possibly for Bass Pro, ect. The barrel was in the exact same condition. I was realy frustrated about it. All I could do was clean the rust the best I could with scotchbrite and W-D and boarbrush. Sighted it in and shot the hoot out of it. Last Dec. 26 took a nice 6 point at 40yrds. when I load her that last 6 inches is rough as a cobb but she still shoots sweet.
Good luck, good hunting, be Blessed
topknot
oldwolf
40 Cal.
Has anyone used Naval Jelly to dremove rust in a bore? What are the up and downsides of using it?
The up is Naval Jelly works very well at removing rust.
The down is Naval Jelly very lightly attacks the steel too so it leaves a slightly frosted look to the surface.
Frosted surfaces in a barrel are not a good thing.
If I were to suggest a product it probably would be Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover.
Because it is made for stripping blueing off of the outside surfaces of guns it is much less likely to attack the base metal and leave a rough surface.
The down is Naval Jelly very lightly attacks the steel too so it leaves a slightly frosted look to the surface.
Frosted surfaces in a barrel are not a good thing.
If I were to suggest a product it probably would be Birchwood Casey Blue and Rust Remover.
Because it is made for stripping blueing off of the outside surfaces of guns it is much less likely to attack the base metal and leave a rough surface.
I tried naval jelly to remove rust in the tubes of an old original dbl barrel and it wouldnt hardly touch it and I ended up using emory cloth on a long split dowel followed up with 3m scotchbrite and steel wool.
Different brands of the jelly may work but what I got locally didnt.
Different brands of the jelly may work but what I got locally didnt.
Well, I finally had time to take the rifle out and shoot it, so I thought I'd update this post. I put 6 patched balls and 2 conicals down the pipe today. I shot the conicals because I thought they might scrape some of the rust out of the bore. I cleaned the rifle at the range and was very happy that I could no longer detect any rough spots. Before I shot it, I could feel the patch scrape a rough spot on the bore but I can't feel that rough spot any more.
Here are my initial impressions from my first time shooting a traditional style BP rifle. First, it didn't recoil as much as I thought it would. In fact my first shot with a patched ball and light load of 30 grains FFG didn't have any recoil at all. Even when I worked the load up to 75 grains, the recoil was mild. Second, there is a noticable interval from the time the hammer releases until the powder charge ignites. I expected that there would be a delay but figured it would be so short it wouldn't be noticeable but it was definitely noticeable. Third, these rifles are difficult to properly clean after shooting. I first poured some windshield wiper fluid down the barrel and used patches and a bore brush. I thought it was fairly clean but when I started using patches with TC No. 13 bore cleaner they came out dirty. I cleaned it as well as I could at the range and after the kiddos went to sleep took the barrel off and put it in a bucket of warm soapy water and, sure enough, the first patch came out a little dirty. I think I've finally got the bore clean but I think I spent more time cleaning than I did shooting. Fourth, and most importantly, it was a lot of fun.
Here are my initial impressions from my first time shooting a traditional style BP rifle. First, it didn't recoil as much as I thought it would. In fact my first shot with a patched ball and light load of 30 grains FFG didn't have any recoil at all. Even when I worked the load up to 75 grains, the recoil was mild. Second, there is a noticable interval from the time the hammer releases until the powder charge ignites. I expected that there would be a delay but figured it would be so short it wouldn't be noticeable but it was definitely noticeable. Third, these rifles are difficult to properly clean after shooting. I first poured some windshield wiper fluid down the barrel and used patches and a bore brush. I thought it was fairly clean but when I started using patches with TC No. 13 bore cleaner they came out dirty. I cleaned it as well as I could at the range and after the kiddos went to sleep took the barrel off and put it in a bucket of warm soapy water and, sure enough, the first patch came out a little dirty. I think I've finally got the bore clean but I think I spent more time cleaning than I did shooting. Fourth, and most importantly, it was a lot of fun.
Pittsburghunter
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Apr 28, 2005
- Messages
- 1,344
- Reaction score
- 39
Dano, just saturate your patches to clean. You don't need to pour cleaner down the bore. I also wouldn't use the windshield washer fluid except with an already clean and ready to shoot arm between shots. I also have sworn off the #13 cleaner in exchange for Hoppe's Elite BP solvent.
One or two patches with that gets you shooting again quickly. (don't forget using a couple dry patches afterwood)
Good luck with your rifle.
One or two patches with that gets you shooting again quickly. (don't forget using a couple dry patches afterwood)
Good luck with your rifle.
Joel/Calgary
50 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2004
- Messages
- 1,251
- Reaction score
- 6
I'll throw out a couple of points for consideration.
Concerning that noticeable delay on firing, it may be the old powder. Pyrodex, like most (all?) of the synthetics is subject to deterioration from absorption of moisture from the air after the bottle is opened. Sometimes things are dry enough there is no deterioration, but you might try it with fresh powder, or real BP if possible, and see if there's a difference.
Concerning the roughness in the bore near the breech, collect some of your fired patches and look for signs of gas leakage in the grooves. If you have some burning, a tighter ball and patch combination might take care of it, or you might need to use something between the powder and the patched ball to seal it - a wad, an extra patch run down before you load the ball (I often use ones I picked at previous shooting sessions in my .50), or a granular filler such as grits or corn meal. I have a smoothbore with rough bores, so I usually use some sort of paper shot protector. I could see occasional burned streak on the recovered shot protectors from gas leakage if I didn't have a thick enough stack of cards over the powder (3-4 over-shot or cereal box cards, or 5-6 milk-carton ones). I found this before I tried ball in it, so I've always just used the cards and cushion under a thumb-seatable patched ball.
The pitting is going to accumulate fouling more than the smooth sections of bore, and is going to mean some more effort in cleaning than a perfectly smooth bore.
Joel
Concerning that noticeable delay on firing, it may be the old powder. Pyrodex, like most (all?) of the synthetics is subject to deterioration from absorption of moisture from the air after the bottle is opened. Sometimes things are dry enough there is no deterioration, but you might try it with fresh powder, or real BP if possible, and see if there's a difference.
Concerning the roughness in the bore near the breech, collect some of your fired patches and look for signs of gas leakage in the grooves. If you have some burning, a tighter ball and patch combination might take care of it, or you might need to use something between the powder and the patched ball to seal it - a wad, an extra patch run down before you load the ball (I often use ones I picked at previous shooting sessions in my .50), or a granular filler such as grits or corn meal. I have a smoothbore with rough bores, so I usually use some sort of paper shot protector. I could see occasional burned streak on the recovered shot protectors from gas leakage if I didn't have a thick enough stack of cards over the powder (3-4 over-shot or cereal box cards, or 5-6 milk-carton ones). I found this before I tried ball in it, so I've always just used the cards and cushion under a thumb-seatable patched ball.
The pitting is going to accumulate fouling more than the smooth sections of bore, and is going to mean some more effort in cleaning than a perfectly smooth bore.
Joel
I like to soak nasty bores with PB Blaster, and let them soak! I then attack with a bore brush.
