Rust Remover in a Neglected Bore

[Hawgeye]

Dan is right on with his advice. I had the same problem with a newly aquired TC hawken. After cleaning with 0000 steel wool and PB blaster and polishing the bore with JB paste, it looked terrific. After a couple of range sessions, accuaracy fell off and loading became difficult. I cleaned and polished the bore again. Accuracy was again good but loading was still problematic after 6 or 7 shots even with swabbing the bore. I polished for a third time and looked at the bore with it lighted from the breech. I was amazed to find microscopic pits full length that did not show when inspecting from the muzzle. The difficult loading was from a three inch length of bore with bad pitting, also not visible when looked at from the muzzle. I sent the barrel to Bob Hoyt for reboring and rifling to 54 cal.

 

[rduncan]

My score so far is two for pawn shop BP's with charges in them. When I look at one I always drop the rod down the bore first to see if it goes all the way down...and "clinks".

The one I bought (a DGW .45) had 90 grains of powder packed in it...but no ball. They were glad to get rid of it.

The other I didn't buy...told the owner it had a charge in it. He asked what he should do and my reply was you can cap it, go behind the store and pull the trigger. If nothing happens, hope your bro-in-law is a gunsmith...

 

[GaCop]

New colerain barrel $175.00
Install your old breech plug, underlug, sights and rod pipes.
Drop it in the sweat box to brown or even blue it and you took care of all that corrosion and pitting. :wink:

I didn't go Colrain but did bid on a brand new unfired TC 50 cal barrel this morning. In the pictures, it appears it's going to need the drum installed, does have the front/rear sights, pipes and ramrod. Box label shows it came from the TC custom shop.

Tom

 

[GaCop]

Dan is right on with his advice. I had the same problem with a newly aquired TC hawken. After cleaning with 0000 steel wool and PB blaster and polishing the bore with JB paste, it looked terrific. After a couple of range sessions, accuaracy fell off and loading became difficult. I cleaned and polished the bore again. Accuracy was again good but loading was still problematic after 6 or 7 shots even with swabbing the bore. I polished for a third time and looked at the bore with it lighted from the breech. I was amazed to find microscopic pits full length that did not show when inspecting from the muzzle. The difficult loading was from a three inch length of bore with bad pitting, also not visible when looked at from the muzzle. I sent the barrel to Bob Hoyt for reboring and rifling to 54 cal.

To date, I'm not getting any accuracy at all. Even at 13 yards, the group was almost 1.5" and 60 yard groups are nonexistant with a PRB. With the rear sight screwed all the way down it's shooting around 3" high at 60 yards.

Tom

 

[cynthialee]

NEVER CAP AND FIRE AN UNKNOWN LOAD!!!

I bought a pistol a few months back and it was packed with smokeless powder and a monster wad. I almost did exactly what you said and cap and fire the thing. My wonderful spouse warned against that and told me to pull the load. When I pulled it and I saw that smokeless powder and the massive wad my gut was in my throat.
If I had caped and fired that gun it would have gone off like a pipe bomb!

Let me reiterate: Never fire an unknown load!

 

[rduncan]

You are correct. My suggestion to the pawn shop person was wasn't meant to be acted upon and I hope no one reading my post thought I was serious.

And by the way, the powder in the DGW gun had been in there long enough to absorb moisture and pit the barrel.

 

[GaCop]

New colerain barrel $175.00
Install your old breech plug, underlug, sights and rod pipes.
Drop it in the sweat box to brown or even blue it and you took care of all that corrosion and pitting. :wink:

I didn't go Colrain but did bid on a brand new unfired TC 50 cal barrel this morning. In the pictures, it appears it's going to need the drum installed, does have the front/rear sights, pipes and ramrod. Box label shows it came from the TC custom shop.

Tom

Turns out the barrel is for a flinter. Seller let me retract my bid.

Tom

 

[RAEDWALD]

I use ATF/acetone 50/50 as a penetrating fluid.

For removing rust I use oxalic acid in a saturated solution. I have a section of 80mm sealed drainpipe that I drop barrels into and leave for a week or so. No problem leaving it in too long. They do come out a green colour due to the iron type on the surface.

An alternative is citric acid used the same way.

 

[Woodyrock]

A safer acid to use for rust removal is citric acid. Loosely it is not much more than vitamin C. You can obtain it from any wine/beer maker supply place. Mix it one cup to the gallon with hot water. The solution willl remove rust in minutes, leaving a grey residue. You need to flush the surface with hot clean water, and dry the metal quickly. The freshly converted metal will flash rust if not dried quickly. The solution will keep for a long time in a closed glass container, and is safe to dump anywhere.
Woody

 

[GaCop]

A safer acid to use for rust removal is citric acid. Loosely it is not much more than vitamin C. You can obtain it from any wine/beer maker supply place. Mix it one cup to the gallon with hot water. The solution willl remove rust in minutes, leaving a grey residue. You need to flush the surface with hot clean water, and dry the metal quickly. The freshly converted metal will flash rust if not dried quickly. The solution will keep for a long time in a closed glass container, and is safe to dump anywhere.
Woody

Good to know, thanks! :thumbsup:

Tom

 

[Billnpatti]

Actually, Coca-Cola will do the same thing but is a might sticky. Actually, it doesn't have to be that brand, any of the colas , Pepsi, R.C. etc., will do it. They all contain mild organic acids such as citric acid, ascorbic acid, acetic acid, etc. and they will remove rust.

 

[GaCop]

Actually, Coca-Cola will do the same thing but is a might sticky. Actually, it doesn't have to be that brand, any of the colas , Pepsi, R.C. etc., will do it. They all contain mild organic acids such as citric acid, ascorbic acid, acetic acid, etc. and they will remove rust.

Maybe use one of the diet colas so no stickness! :haha:

Tom

 

[Billnpatti]

Absolutely no reason why that wouldn't work. :thumbsup:

 

[GaCop]

After getting the rusty barrel cleaned up as well as I could and did a polishing with Issoso and 4/0 steel wool and then again with a tight fitting mop.

I tried the 50 cal TC Hawken with both 385gr Great Plains bullets and the Hornady 240gr PA Conical. Accuracy even at 50 yards is non existent, shooting all over the target. What really concerned me was all the lead chips I was getting out of the barrel when I cleaned the rifle before leaving the range. It looks as if the barrel will either have to be enlarged to 54 cal or be replaced with a GM barrel as I've tried everything I can think of and it won't shoot RB or bullets with any accuracy. I'm leaning towards a GM 50 cal barrel as I already have two 54 cal rifles.

Tom

 

[Lonegun1894]

Now I don't know if you have a shotgun/smoothbore yet, but if not, and if it was mine, I would consider having it reamed smooth. I currently have a GM .54 smoothbore barrel that is 32" long mounted on a FL GPR and it is great for small game and hogs. I haven't had a chance to try it on a turkey yet, so can't comment there. However, and assuming you have the standard 28" TC hawken barrel, I don't see the 4" lenght difference between yours and mine making any difference in either RB groups or shot patterns.

 

[Dean2]

Green Mountain, breeched drops ins are going for about $225 so not a bad choice if you can get a drop in that is in the caliber you want.

Other option is, have Hoyt bore it to 54, about half the cost of a new barrel, and resell it. I presume you paid small enough dollars to the pawn shop for the bunged up barreled ML when you bought it, you should be able to make a buck or two and apply that to something you really want.

 

[Loyalist Dave]

I would consider having it reamed smooth.

I second that motion. A 28 gauge isn't a bad smoothie. And GM barrels are rather scarce, and if it was mine, I'm like the character in that movie The Princess Bride, who said, "I hate waiting".

You might also contact Cabin Creek Muzzleloading and see what they would charge to ream and rifle your barrel. You COULD even ask them what they'd charge to ream and then "straight rifle" your barrel. (Why not have a very cool, custom gun when you are done?)

LD

 

[cynthialee]

bore it out smooth

I have a .56 smoothbore and I like it alot!

 

[GaCop]

Hmmmmmmm, food for thought. I currently have the winning bid on a TC 50 cal Hawken barrel in VG condition on Ebay so we'll see how it goes.

Tom

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Ah well then you have the best of both worlds, as you can send off the roached barrel for reaming and/or rerifling, while shooting the gun with the new barrel.

LD