• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Safely firing an antique gun

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Here's what I do:
-make sure it's not loaded
-clean it well
-look for structural issues on the outside, including nipple, vent hole lock etc
-run a bore scope down the barrel, inspect barrel and powder chamber
-fire a cap/spark the pan
-fire light loads first, pulling trigger with a string from a safe distance: 10gr, 20 gr, 30gr, 40 gr. Swab barrel and check for issues after each shot
-full powder charge
-projectile with half charge, then again with full charge
-clean up and check for issues again
This is a solid plan of action.

Keyhole is on the money.
 
You can get them very inexpensively now - The one I have i believe was under $20 from Amazon and works great for bore inspection purposes
That is quite a drop in price, I will have to talk to some I know who are still in the business to get the information. It could be, we are talking about two different kinds of device.
 
I disagree with the comment about it appearing to be loaded with the rod stopping at that point, thats the junction of the barrel and breech plug, I would expect it to stop farther up the barrel to account for the threads of the plug going into the barrel.

Still, best to get a scope and have a look.

Some use a bright steel ball bearing to reflect light back up the barrel of a light shined into the muzzle, some use a small light dropped down the bore, neither of which shows the extreme rear of the bore, but can indicate the general condition of the bore. The inexpensive endoscopes are nice to have, though I bought one and only found out later it requires a wifi connection to work, which reduces it usefulness to me tremendously, not to mentioned I couldnt get it to work at all on 2 of my devices. If possible I suggest one that does not require wifi to work, meaning it can go to the range or in your field gear or auto tools and be used anywhere at any time.

As an example, I bought a cheap one at walmart once to look into the cylinder of a motorcycle I was looking at, no wifi, it was stand alone with its own screen. Far more useful, I just didnt have it at the time I needed it (halfway across the country) so bought the useless one that worked with a phone and wifi.
The camera usually has its own wifi to connect with your phone. Turn on the camera, then open the wifi settings on your phone/tablet. This will sometimes install a required app. Then just open the app with the device connected to the camera.

Yours could be different tho.
 
When firing an antique gun, I usually just turn my head away and pray to the Almighty whilst pulling the trigger.

In all seriousness, I’ve found those little car endoscopes (for peering inside cylinders and looking at valve trains) come in real handy for checking out deep dark bores. They typically have a series of LEDs situated around the lens and allow you to adjust their brightness via a little knob or wheel.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4402.jpeg
    IMG_4402.jpeg
    768.1 KB
The camera usually has its own wifi to connect with your phone. Turn on the camera, then open the wifi settings on your phone/tablet. This will sometimes install a required app. Then just open the app with the device connected to the camera.

Yours could be different tho.

Thanks. Yes, mine plugged directly into the phone or tablet yet still required a wifi connection to function, I have no idea why. Id not buy another one until understanding how it works. The one I bought was just wasted money as it doesnt work.
 
Back
Top