Scope mount hole fix

[awreis]

Thanks for everyone's input. I greatly appreciate it all.

 

[Billy Boy]

I see no real problem with a full length screw of the correct thread. How much different is that different from a flash hole liner or nipple?

Degrease the hole and screw, tin the screw with silver bearing solder, screw it in with enough ‘extra’ length to stick above the barrel about an inch, then hear the end of the screw and watch the heat/melt work down into the hole. Let it sit for 20 min. cut the screw off, clean up the area.

 

[awreis]

Degrease the hole and screw, tin the screw with silver bearing solder, screw it in with enough ‘extra’ length to stick above the barrel about an inch, then hear the end of the screw and watch the heat/melt work down into the hole. Let it sit for 20 min. cut the screw off, clean up the area.

When you say coat the screw, do you mean to use the paste form of silver bearing solder?

 

[Billy Boy]

When you say coat the screw, do you mean to use the paste form of silver bearing solder?

Yes, Brownell’s has a silver bearing paste that is great for things like this, ribs, ramps, etc.

 

[Greg Y]

I'm a custom riflesmith. There's no way to answer this over the net others than to say pass.

The problem is that thread purchase is dependent upon the hole diameter and thread pitch diameter.

The amount of thread engagement goes away quick on those #6-48's.

If you had a class 3 thread engagement...AND you could find a screw to fit that bottomed on its shoulder....I'd sleep well.

Just threading a piece of screw in there will not guarantee it to stay put....there's no thread tension.

Silver solder is an option, but I would prefer a class 3 fit to a shoulder and then deck it flush.

 

[sturmkatze]

Just take it to a good gunsmith. Don’t listen to internet bs and the pearl clutchers. With the internet advice and $6, you could get a cup of coffee.

 

[Ferryboatcaptain]

I would fix this at home and shoot it . a screw the right length coated with jb weld and installed would be my way. If it didn't hold then I would look to a gunsmith . just my two cents . FBC

 

[awreis]

Degrease the hole and screw, tin the screw with silver bearing solder, screw it in with enough ‘extra’ length to stick above the barrel about an inch, then hear the end of the screw and watch the heat/melt work down into the hole. Let it sit for 20 min. cut the screw off, clean up the area

Degrease the hole and screw, tin the screw with silver bearing solder, screw it in with enough ‘extra’ length to stick above the barrel about an inch, then hear the end of the screw and watch the heat/melt work down into the hole. Let it sit for 20 min. cut the screw off, clean up the area.

Could I do this method using the correct size screw? Prep area the same way but leave screw stick out a little bit, then when solder is heated and melts, screw in the screw tight and let cool.

 

[wiscoaster]

Could I do this method using the correct size screw? Prep area the same way but leave screw stick out a little bit, then when solder is heated and melts, screw in the screw tight and let cool.

Sorry, but I think you're still trying to find a solution by consulting the internet instead of a competent gunsmith. Best wishes and good luck.

 

[brushblind]

Screw in the hole, not too short and not too long with Lock Tight should be fine. A Bubba acquaintance of mine drilled not one but four holes thru his .45 TC Hawken trying to mount a scope on it, he finally got aggravated, filled the holes with gun screws and is still shooting it with no problems. I tried to get him to proof it with a heavy charge of 3f and a heavy conical but he wouldn't, says he only shoots round balls with medium and light charges.

 

[R Ellis]

Seems like the nipple and so called clean out screw are subject to the same pressure that your barrel screws and they seem to hold just fine jmo

 

[Billy Boy]

Could I do this method using the correct size screw? Prep area the same way but leave screw stick out a little bit, then when solder is heated and melts, screw in the screw tight and let cool.

I would rather have a longer screw so the barrel around the screw is only minimally heated and you have precise control of the heating process.

 

[Greg Y]

Seems like the nipple and so called clean out screw are subject to the same pressure that your barrel screws and they seem to hold just fine jmo

The nipple has a pressure loss.

OP, Do some google searching on thread fit classes. I would be fine with a 3 to a heavy 2......1, no way. Manufacturers know what a nipple has to do and choose materials accordingly. Threading a #6 screw can be a trick and some are butter soft.

Back to "no easy answer".

 

[ETipp]

I was recently given a TC New Englander that the previous owner drilled for scope mounts. The problem is they drilled all of the way through the top of the barrel. My question is, would it be safe if I installed a screw with loctite the same thickness as the barrel where it didn't stick out the bottom to plug the hole. My other thought for a permanent fix would be, install screw to correct depth, cut off excess and weld it in place. What are your all's thoughts?

Honestly, if it were mine I would send that barrel to Bobby Hoyt and have him reline it.

If I wanted to shoot RB, I’d have a slower twist or at least get deeper grooves than the TC grooves.

If I wanted it to be conical shooter I’d have a faster twist put in it.