Sharps carbine

[wb78963]

Good evening Captndan.,
I checked my gun and my front fight is a Marble 1/16" ivory bead and is either a 53W or 57W and I suspect the 57W would work The blade is, as close as I can measure, mikes 0.613" the w57 blade is 0.570"
Brownell's stock# for that sight is 576 105 732AV . and is the 1/16" bead.
I might make a suggestion is make a "L" shaped piece of brass shim stock or a piece of a brass unmentionable case for a front sight taped to the barel and by measuring the bent end after shooting you can get some kind of an idea of how high the blade will need to be to work.
They come in blades numbered 45W .450" 50W .500" and .53W 538" .
Marble makes both the ivory bead and brass bead and a glow bead that last kind would look strange on a Sharps
I was lucky I just stuck a tall sight on and wonder of wonders I was hitting the 50 yard 18" gong a little low with the rear sight all the way down.

Calculating sight adjustment
take the sight radius in inches and divide that by the range in inches and the result will be the amount to move the bullet strike for one inch at that distance I hope this helps.
Sorry to go on so long but this is hard to explain with out pictures..
Hold center
Bunk

 

[Rfp10000]

I have some questions about a new Pedersoli Sharps Carbine and the chamber sleeve .
First, is there a particular oil or grease used to keep the sleeve sliding freely. I was thinking about the type of grease used on the threads of percussion nipples to coat the outside of the sleeve .
Second , does the chamber sleeve removal tool actually remove the sleeve from the barrel or is it used to somehow free a stuck chamber sleeve that no longer slides.
Third, are there any recommendations for cleaning and oiling the block assembly to keep it working as well as possible before going to the fixes offered by Hahn & Flees?
Ron

 

[gemmer]

Some people use a high pressure grease to lube the sleeve, IF they can loosen it up. Even then, if doesn't really solve a poor gas seal problem. The tool will not remove the sleeve. It allows the sleeve to move back for cleaning, IF you can loosen it up. When I bought my Sharps, I bought the tool and it proved to be useless. Any amount of cleaning and oiling of the block will not prevent binding problem from fouling after as little as five shots without taking other measures. Some guys use high pressure or white lithium grease on the sides and face of the block to keep the fouling soft. It works for some, but create a mess. I sent my Sporter to Charlie without even firing it first. I consider that a smart move on my part.

 

[Rfp10000]

Thanks ... I have yet to fire mine. Got bullets , ordered tubes & cleaning jags etc & started pulling it apart a bit.
BTW, I ordered 54 cal bronze brush, mop and cleaning jag from Dixie with the gun but the brush & mop won’t even fit in the barrel and neither sill the jag with a cleaning patch on it . I’m trying 50 cal to see if they work.
I assumed I would be doing the fix but I would like to shoot it to see what everyone is talking about as to the problems.
Also do you know the difference between the two major fixes out there , Hahn & Flees or are they essentially the same ?

 

[Columbus]

.
Also do you know the difference between the two major fixes out there , Hahn & Flees or are they essentially the same ?
[/QUOTE]

I have both. They are actually opposites. The Hahn version is a fixed plate on the block that does not come off and a two piece chamber insert. The inner piece is fixed and the outer had a rubber 0-ring that maintains pressure against the block. Flees version has a fixed breech insert that is not removable and a new block plate with a rubber 0-ring which keeps the plate under pressure against the chamber sleeve. They both work well.

You're going to need .50 cal cleaning stuff.

 

[Rfp10000]

.
Also do you know the difference between the two major fixes out there , Hahn & Flees or are they essentially the same ?

I have both. They are actually opposites. The Hahn version is a fixed plate on the block that does not come off and a two piece chamber insert. The inner piece is fixed and the outer had a rubber 0-ring that maintains pressure against the block. Flees version has a fixed breech insert that is not removable and a new block plate with a rubber 0-ring which keeps the plate under pressure against the chamber sleeve. They both work well.

You're going to need .50 cal cleaning stuff.

Thanks a lot , very helpful...

could you give me an idea of how many shots you get off at a session without having to pull block and clean it some before and after your fixes ..

 

[Columbus]

Thanks a lot , very helpful...

could you give me an idea of how many shots you get off at a session without having to pull block and clean it some before and after your fixes ..

I only had 34 rounds (hahn tubes) made up last time I went and I shot all of them and the action was still moving fine. Prior to the conversion I was lucky to get 6 shots off without it starting jam and needing to be removed and cleaned. That was with the Flees mod, I just bought the gun with the Hahn mod and haven't shot it yet but I expect the same.

 

[Rfp10000]

I only had 34 rounds (hahn tubes) made up last time I went and I shot all of them and the action was still moving fine. Prior to the conversion I was lucky to get 6 shots off without it starting jam and needing to be removed and cleaned. That was with the Flees mod, I just bought the gun with the Hahn mod and haven't shot it yet but I expect the same.

Again, thank you very much. I’d love to hear your thoughts after you shoot the Hahn... especially since you have both to compare.
As I said, once I decided the fix was just part of owning the gun , I bought it ... I cannot wait to shoot it & then get the fix and maybe a better sight set up ...

 

[gemmer]

Thanks ... I have yet to fire mine. Got bullets , ordered tubes & cleaning jags etc & started pulling it apart a bit.
BTW, I ordered 54 cal bronze brush, mop and cleaning jag from Dixie with the gun but the brush & mop won’t even fit in the barrel and neither sill the jag with a cleaning patch on it . I’m trying 50 cal to see if they work.
I assumed I would be doing the fix but I would like to shoot it to see what everyone is talking about as to the problems.
Also do you know the difference between the two major fixes out there , Hahn & Flees or are they essentially the same ?

 

[gemmer]

Your bore is .52 cal. The groove to groove is, or should be .540. A .54 cal patch jag will not work. Put it in a drill press and file it down. I use a .54 brush. Tight but it should work. Try it from the breech end, the mop as well. Go to the N-SSA bulletin board and do a search for Flees and for Hahn. You'll get detailed info on each approach to the problem. www.n-ssa.net.

 

[Rfp10000]

Your bore is .52 cal. The groove to groove is, or should be .540. A .54 cal patch jag will not work. Put it in a drill press and file it down. I use a .54 brush. Tight but it should work. Try it from the breech end, the mop as well. Go to the N-SSA bulletin board and do a search for Flees and for Hahn. You'll get detailed info on each approach to the problem. www.n-ssa.net.

Ok ... thanks

 

[wb78963]

for what it is worth for Sharps shooters.
Paper artridges for the Sharps use a LOT of powder and lead. This method works for me in my gun that has the Hahn conversion.
It may work with your Sharps
Drop a round ball in the chamber and measure how long a tube needs to be. See the "Muskets Matters" video for information on this.
Using the Hahn tube i simply glue a short extension to get the proper head space for ignition.
30 grains of FFFg over a wad glued in the tube keeps the powder in place.
The remaining space is filled with a goodly glob of Crisco or lard to keep fouling soft.
This is a great load for off hand practice at 50 yards for target work. Economical of powder and lead, almost no recoil big bang lots of smoke.
Works for me YMMV
Molon Labe
Bunk

 

[Rfp10000]

for what it is worth for Sharps shooters.
Paper artridges for the Sharps use a LOT of powder and lead. This method works for me in my gun that has the Hahn conversion.
It may work with your Sharps
Drop a round ball in the chamber and measure how long a tube needs to be. See the "Muskets Matters" video for information on this.
Using the Hahn tube i simply glue a short extension to get the proper head space for ignition.
30 grains of FFFg over a wad glued in the tube keeps the powder in place.
The remaining space is filled with a goodly glob of Crisco or lard to keep fouling soft.
This is a great load for off hand practice at 50 yards for target work. Economical of powder and lead, almost no recoil big bang lots of smoke.
Works for me YMMV
Molon Labe
Bunk

Do you put the wad in the tube then some glue where the wad meets the tube ?

 

[dave951]

Thanks a lot , very helpful...

could you give me an idea of how many shots you get off at a session without having to pull block and clean it some before and after your fixes ..

I have the Flees mod and can go at least 50+ shots with no issues. Both the Hahn and Flees mods work quite well.

For best accuracy, you'll have to slug your bore. The bores on these critters are all over the place just like the originals. Both my 1863 IAB carbines measure at 550 so I use a 555 bullet with Hahn tubes. Get it sorted and they can be quite accurate.

 

[wb78963]

Do you put the wad in the tube then some glue where the wad meets the tube ?

yes the wad goes over the powder. Then white glue seals the wad and the powder is protected from the lube.
It keeps the fouling soft and greasy and the glued in wad usually splits the tube and blows it out of the barrel.
make smoke
Bunk

 

[Diver63csa]

Question re. powders: Do any of you use FF? I used FFF mostly for blanks during reenactments but I have a lb. of FF and concerned if it is too powerful for shooting live ammo.
thanks in advance

 

[Grenadier1758]

Actually the FFg powder will develop less pressure for the same grain weight (by volume) than FFFg.

So, yes, @Diver63csa, you can use safely use FFg powder.

 

[gemmer]

Again, thank you very much. I’d love to hear your thoughts after you shoot the Hahn... especially since you have both to compare.
As I said, once I decided the fix was just part of owning the gun , I bought it ... I cannot wait to shoot it & then get the fix and maybe a better sight set up ...

If you intend to use Charlie's tubes, to get the correct length, put the bullet as far as it will go in the chamber. Measure from the ringtail base of the bullet to the mouth of the chamber. To that number, add the the distance from the ringtail base to the full width base of the bullet. The breechblock will just barely clear a cartridge of the proper length.

 

[wb78963]

Question re. powders: Do any of you use FF? I used FFF mostly for blanks during reenactments but I have a lb. of FF and concerned if it is too powerful for shooting live ammo.
thanks in advance

I use both and see no difference. Usually I use FFFg mostly because i have more of it than FFg. I suspect and will check you get less actual weight per volume than with FFg because the powder is courser, but that is something to check
Hold center
Bunk

 

[wb78963]

for what it is worth for Sharps shooters.
Paper artridges for the Sharps use a LOT of powder and lead. This method works for me in my gun that has the Hahn conversion.
It may work with your Sharps
Drop a round ball in the chamber and measure how long a tube needs to be. See the "Muskets Matters" video for information on this.
Using the Hahn tube i simply glue a short extension to get the proper head space for ignition.
30 grains of FFFg over a wad glued in the tube keeps the powder in place.
The remaining space is filled with a goodly glob of Crisco or lard to keep fouling soft.
This is a great load for off hand practice at 50 yards for target work. Economical of powder and lead, almost no recoil big bang lots of smoke.
Works for me YMMV
Molon Labe
Bunk

The tube I use is .45" inside diameter and makes a flat base cartridge. The paper base is hair curler paper. the glued on extebsion is about 1/4" more. The ball is not attached to the paper cartridge.