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Shiloh sharps 54 cal

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That’s a Big Timber made Shiloh, does it have a B at the beginning of the serial number? The color case looks like what the current owner does.
 
I have 2 early IAB '63's. One is a sporter, the other is a carbine. Both were built as Pitmans' Notes described (ca.1907)
I also have a Big Timber made Shiloh. It is also built exactly as the originals were. And the parts will interchange with an original Sharps.
The Shiloh is the more precisely made of the 3, and is also the better shooter.
But they are my favorite "cartridge" guns to shoot.
As has been said, there is a learning curve. They take time and patience to learn how to shoot them well, but very worth the time.
 
I have 2 early IAB '63's. One is a sporter, the other is a carbine. Both were built as Pitmans' Notes described (ca.1907)
I also have a Big Timber made Shiloh. It is also built exactly as the originals were. And the parts will interchange with an original Sharps.
The Shiloh is the more precisely made of the 3, and is also the better shooter.
But they are my favorite "cartridge" guns to shoot.
As has been said, there is a learning curve. They take time and patience to learn how to shoot them well, but very worth the time.
Thanks still have to buy the stuff to make ammunition. I will ask questions as I go.
 
Meanwhile, this forum makes for an interesting read.
It seems scattered, but the posts are intuitive if you separate the chaff.
https://shilohrifle.com/forums/viewforum.php?f=8The '63 Sharps as a military weapon was extremely reliable in its original design.
Men used them in battle, if they didn't work well those guys would have tossed them in a ditch. That being said, there are those that have learned how to use them reliably in their original form.
No O rings required...
 
Have Hahn Machine Works or Larry Flees do their chamber and breech block modification. Then with "Charlie's Tubes" and a ring tail bullet start shooting. With this modification you will be good for 30+ rounds with no breech block stickiness and well worth the cost. The only difference is the Flees modification will only work with flat tail cartridges. It will not work with the cut tail paper cartridge
There is mo change in appearance because the modifications on both are internal.
I have one of each kind of modification on two Pedersoli's one carbine and one sporting rifle and am satisfied with both types of conversion.
I have shot them a lot and both work perfectly. I cannot say one is better than the other.
Have fun
Bunk
Does it really need a Hahn or fleece repair? I have shot my 50 cal up to 20 rounds with no problems. I would hate to do that update to my C Sharps or Shiloh.
 
Does it really need a Hahn or fleece repair? I have shot my 50 cal up to 20 rounds with no problems. I would hate to do that update to my C Sharps or Shiloh.
My Pedersoli was good for eight to ten shots before the beech block and mortise needed cleaning.
Obviously the C.Sharps or Shiloh are much better made guns.
I just did not care to spend that much and wait that long. The modification was under $ 200. and the carbine will easily do 45 to 50 shots with no trouble.
Respectfully
Bunk
 
Thanks still have to buy the stuff to make ammunition. I will ask questions as I go.
i cheat and use "Charlie's tubes" just glue on base paper and BINGO!! done.
My learning curve started with a heel bullet and then rolled the cartridge.
Now time is spent shooting not at the cartridge making bench.
but that just me it is my way not the only way.
may not even be the best way
Bunk
 
I can shoot +25 rounds from the IAB, or the Shiloh without a wipe or anything special. First shot, same as last.
I use a paper cartridge that I make myself, similar to how they were made in the 1860's.
I have also made "powder bags" that are pre-measured charges that I can load separate of the projectile. And I have made all in one cartridges with similar results.
These guns do not "like" petroleum based lubricants. Jojoba oil is chemically identical to the sperm oil (whale oil) that was used prolifically at that time. Non-petroleum based lubricants are really key.
Black powder residues mix poorly with petroleum based lubes and contribute to mechanical failure.
Kirk Bryan's (owner, Shiloh) son shoots a full match with a '63 military (60 rnds) without a wipe, as he has told me.

I have haunted numerous, museums, shooters forums, and websites over the last 25 plus years trying to solve the problems that I have had trying to re-invent the wheel of what used to be the common knowledge of these arms. I am by no means an expert, but I have learned a bunch.
 
Can I ask what bullet and powder load? Do you just use the paper cartridges? I put in the bullet then pour in some filler then powder. Still working on a load! lol
That target was with .535” round ball and 50 grains of powder at fifty yards. The chamber was all messed up by the fellow that relined the barrel so that was all I could load in it. I have since re worked the chamber and the sleeve that he had put in it and now it excepts a proper cartridge.
 
The Shiloh sharps rifle’s you’re talking about are percussion muzzleloaders? I’m not familiar with the Sharps model years so I don’t know what they mean. Someone mentioned the Quigley rifle and that one was a cartridge gun.
I have a Shiloh Sharps cartridge rifle that was purchased in the early 90’s but it’s never been shot.
 
Those Sharps carbines with paper cartridges are extremely accurate when the cartridges are well done.
That target is normally destined to shoot with 22LR carbine at 50 meters...

Sharps_54.jpg


This one is made for 10m pistol shooting but shot at 50m...

Pistolet _air _Sharps 50m.jpg
 
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