Nope,
Just lube and shoot
Just lube and shoot
Shiloh sharps 54 cal
- Thread starter Robertakamagoo
- Start date
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The Sharps breech is somewhat counterintuitive when it comes to muzzle loader protocol.
In muzzloaders, you never leave an airspace between the powder and the ball.
The Sharps breech block has this huge empty chamber behind the gascheck plate.
Think of the breech block and gas check plate assembly as a steam valve.
The exploding charge "pops" the GC plate forward to seal the breech face upon firing.
That being said...
If you were to loose load, drop a lubed bullet or ball into the chamber. It will (should) stop at the rifling, so no worries.
Then you could fill the chamber flush with powder (this might total 70 to 90 grains of 2f).
Close the breech, cap and shoot.
Using a paper cartridge accomplishes the same task, only tidier.
IF the gun does not fire-
Wait, re-cap and try again.
Avoid opening the breech unless necessary. Any loose powder that might have entered the breech cavity (normal) could change how you perceive the charge volume, so do not add anything.
Any oil in the firing hole or nipple will put the primer spark out. So be clean and dry before you start.
If you need to unload without firing, de-prime, open the breech and dump it out, then use a cleaning rod or ramrod to push the bullet out.
Then drop the breech and inspect and clean as necessary.
In muzzloaders, you never leave an airspace between the powder and the ball.
The Sharps breech block has this huge empty chamber behind the gascheck plate.
Think of the breech block and gas check plate assembly as a steam valve.
The exploding charge "pops" the GC plate forward to seal the breech face upon firing.
That being said...
If you were to loose load, drop a lubed bullet or ball into the chamber. It will (should) stop at the rifling, so no worries.
Then you could fill the chamber flush with powder (this might total 70 to 90 grains of 2f).
Close the breech, cap and shoot.
Using a paper cartridge accomplishes the same task, only tidier.
IF the gun does not fire-
Wait, re-cap and try again.
Avoid opening the breech unless necessary. Any loose powder that might have entered the breech cavity (normal) could change how you perceive the charge volume, so do not add anything.
Any oil in the firing hole or nipple will put the primer spark out. So be clean and dry before you start.
If you need to unload without firing, de-prime, open the breech and dump it out, then use a cleaning rod or ramrod to push the bullet out.
Then drop the breech and inspect and clean as necessary.
This photo shows that there are no gas leaks at the moment the gun fires. The primer spark is even still in the air.
This was 60gr of Goex 2f behind a Richmond Laboratories style bullet (Lee mold, bullets available through Eras Gone). The Sharps Carbine is a Shiloh.
This was 60gr of Goex 2f behind a Richmond Laboratories style bullet (Lee mold, bullets available through Eras Gone). The Sharps Carbine is a Shiloh.
Very Nice!
Order the kit to make the paper tubes.
It's actually pretty handy, and it takes the guess work out.
Getting started, and just to keep things simple, you really don't need any special paper. A medium cotton bond paper was used originally (according to the quartermasters' lists).
The cartridge kit that's available recommends cigarette papers. I've used everything form brown packing paper to nitrated onion skin (tracing paper).
Use what the kit comes with, then decide what you like.
*Regardless of what you choose, Just be very careful not to load a fresh cartridge onto a hot ember hiding in the chamber.
And don't forget that you can loose load the Sharps as well.
Getting started, and just to keep things simple, you really don't need any special paper. A medium cotton bond paper was used originally (according to the quartermasters' lists).
The cartridge kit that's available recommends cigarette papers. I've used everything form brown packing paper to nitrated onion skin (tracing paper).
Use what the kit comes with, then decide what you like.
*Regardless of what you choose, Just be very careful not to load a fresh cartridge onto a hot ember hiding in the chamber.
And don't forget that you can loose load the Sharps as well.
I got a kit it’s easier than making it. I got a dowel that I can turn down at work so I can get overall of case. Have you shot one with lose power before.
Yes, I have.
They perform the same
They perform the same
What’s a good starting load.
65gr 2f black powder (or equivalent).
I prefer black powder.
50 yards is a good starter. Or 25 if you've never fired this gun before.
Before you go to the range, pull the breech block and take it apart, nipple, cleanout screw, and gas check plate. Clean and dry them each. Use a pipe cleaner to clean and dry the orifices. Then reassemble using anti-sieze on the threads of the cleanout screw and nipple. Then dress the backside of the gascheck plate with anti-sieze, and push it back in place.
By doing this you will have a working "feel" of the assembly.
While at the range, if the breech block becomes sticky or stubborn, remove it and clean it.
Water is best, but you can use a soap and water mix, or a commercially produced black powder solvent.
There's a learning curve, but it shouldn't be too difficult to get what works best for your gun.
I prefer black powder.
50 yards is a good starter. Or 25 if you've never fired this gun before.
Before you go to the range, pull the breech block and take it apart, nipple, cleanout screw, and gas check plate. Clean and dry them each. Use a pipe cleaner to clean and dry the orifices. Then reassemble using anti-sieze on the threads of the cleanout screw and nipple. Then dress the backside of the gascheck plate with anti-sieze, and push it back in place.
By doing this you will have a working "feel" of the assembly.
While at the range, if the breech block becomes sticky or stubborn, remove it and clean it.
Water is best, but you can use a soap and water mix, or a commercially produced black powder solvent.
There's a learning curve, but it shouldn't be too difficult to get what works best for your gun.
Correction-
To be specific,
Your bullet of choice will "like" 50-60gr of 2f black in that Shiloh in a cartridge.
-65gr if loose loading the powder.
To be specific,
Your bullet of choice will "like" 50-60gr of 2f black in that Shiloh in a cartridge.
-65gr if loose loading the powder.
Thanks for your help.
60+ gr 2f? Looks like 46g 3f works just fine. Don't get caught up in the "service charge" thing. Find what works best. Also, you have to slug your bore to determine what bullet will work. Some barrels, like IAB, are way oversize and a "54cal" will be so undersize that accuracy is non existent. My IABs both slug at .55 so I had a mold cut at .555 on the large band of the "Christmas Tree".
Nice!
Great find.
It's marked "544-480", that means it makes a .544 diameter (largest ring) bullet that is 480gr in weight.
Between the two bullets that you now have, you can see which one works better in that gun.
The Shiloh's seem to be very consistent at about .545 bore, At least from what I have seen (including my own).
Great find.
It's marked "544-480", that means it makes a .544 diameter (largest ring) bullet that is 480gr in weight.
Between the two bullets that you now have, you can see which one works better in that gun.
The Shiloh's seem to be very consistent at about .545 bore, At least from what I have seen (including my own).
I made a paper cartridge to get test how long to make them .750 base of bullet to beech face the bullet tail is .250 so I made paper 1 inch long the problem is I can only fix 40 grains of 2F powder. The question is should I use 3F powder because of smaller chamber size.
40 grains of 2f (2f recommended by Charlie Hahn) is near the ideal accuracy load.
Ok I was thinking the chamber was really short.
1st test round to make sure it fits ok.
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