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Should I reach out to builder or adjust at home? Gap between lock and barrel

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Kimber? Do be they make flintlocks? It, perhaps thee means Kibler?
Don’t know. Maybe it’s like saying Beetlejuice three times and things happen? Or possibly auto fill or auto correct? Unfortunately my phone isn’t smart enough to know the difference when it changes things and I need to check behind it. It usually likes cookies over firearms. I’m sure it’s never happened to you…… And the whole AI thing is around the corner.
 
Don’t know. Maybe it’s like saying Beetlejuice three times and things happen? Or possibly auto fill or auto correct? Unfortunately my phone isn’t smart enough to know the difference when it changes things and I need to check behind it. It usually likes cookies over firearms. I’m sure it’s never happened to you…… And the whole AI thing is around the corner.
You know, you can edit your posts for a day or so.
 
More of the inletting. It was $2,350 including a Chambers colonial lock, rice swamped radius barrel, walnut stock, and wooden patchbox. Will let you know how things go. Builder is going to take it back to look over. Was going to mention the builder just since it’s nice to have the information available to the community, but want to give a chance and be open minded in case there’s something im missing here. All said, I’ve shot two shots through it, cleaned it, and it’s lived on the wall absent photos for troubleshooting.

The lighter wood color where the inletting is for the **** is me. It was gashed more than it was dinged, so I took the mark out from the **** dropping with very light sandpaper and an initial wiping of linseed oil.

View attachment 221206
I hope it all works out for ya ...
 
Check the bridle screws on your lock: if they are backed out too far they will press against the wood in the mortise and push the rear part of the lock plate out.

Not perfection but for what you paid you got a pretty decent looking rifle there. If the bridle screws are not pushing the lock out it is a simple matter to relieve the wood where it needs to be relieved.

Make the adjustment and enjoy your new rifle.
 
as any journeyman house builder knows, if there is a mistake on the foundation it will haunt you clear to the roof if not rectified.
I fear this rifle was the victim of a mistake from the get go, and no one fixed it.
i build rifles. i don't sell my products because even the mistakes that i catch and fix are still there in my mind. i can't fathom a builder putting his name on something all cocked up.
check the main spring also. see if it hits the barrel , keeping the lock unseated. jm2cents
 
How do you go about getting your money back from a custom builder? Most of these guys are not business men, there are no written contracts etc. You’re working on good faith. I’ve had heard stories of people sending work back to Kit Ravensheer and Leonard Day, with zero resolution, and those guys were AAA class builders as well as businessmen. It all boils down to the good rapport you develop with a builder. Personally I would not have made a fuss about it on a public forum, I would have kept it confidential, the buyer is already at a loss.

Learn and move on from it, this why I build my own.

Obviously with some you don’t! My gun cracked because the wood was wet I was annoyed more with the bondo used to support the buttplate. I went with them because I saw Dualists Den showing one off that he purchased. Some people might not care they use bondo behind all their buttplates. I don’t either so long as it held up to be the heirloom they described it to be. When they told me $1500 to restock it; I knew then. What really got me is telling me 3 fusills that were loaned to someone in Nevada came back a year later all shrunk badly! Not my words. Like what a surprise. Very nice to talk to but No integrity. All wood shrinks and expands both my rifles I purchased from them had excessive shrinkage one cracked the stock. The Virginia I purchased had a dimes width of shrinkage around the buttplate and the slide box didn’t work after a year of it sitting in my house. That’s excessive! I don’t buy the wood was properly dried. I’ve played with wood furniture earlier in my life and never saw anything like that. I have many flintlocks only two I purchased from this builder had a problem! All kept in the same spot.
 
Obviously with some you don’t! My gun cracked because the wood was wet I was annoyed more with the bondo used to support the buttplate. I went with them because I saw Dualists Den showing one off that he purchased. Some people might not care they use bondo behind all their buttplates. I don’t either so long as it held up to be the heirloom they described it to be. When they told me $1500 to restock it; I knew then. What really got me is telling me 3 fusills that were loaned to someone in Nevada came back a year later all shrunk badly! Not my words. Like what a surprise. Very nice to talk to but No integrity. All wood shrinks and expands both my rifles I purchased from them had excessive shrinkage one cracked the stock. The Virginia I purchased had a dimes width of shrinkage around the buttplate and the slide box didn’t work after a year of it sitting in my house. That’s excessive! I don’t buy the wood was properly dried. I’ve played with wood furniture earlier in my life and never saw anything like that. I have many flintlocks only two I purchased from this builder had a problem! All kept in the same spot.

I’m not sure what Bondo is, but i only use arca class or a wood wax as a gap filler or security adhesive on a gunstock.

You have to understand that not every builder is an artist, you’re essentially purchasing someone’s artistic skills.
 
I’m not sure what Bondo is, but i only use arca class or a wood wax as a gap filler or security adhesive on a gunstock.

You have to understand that not every builder is an artist, you’re essentially purchasing someone’s artistic skills.
Bondo is the stuff used to fix dents/holes in car bodies. How one would use it to fill a gap in a gun stock, I have no idea. It would never blend in. Semper Fi.
 
Bondo is the stuff used to fix dents/holes in car bodies. How one would use it to fill a gap in a gun stock, I have no idea. It would never blend in. Semper Fi.
They actually went out of way to make it look like wood with some texture and then stained it to a color similar to what cherry looks like. I didn’t realize it was bondo until I used a sanding drum to reduce the curve at the back of the butt stock to get the buttplate to fit and whitish powder appeared LOL. Again even though they used bondo that is not what caused the stock to crack. Obviously I would have preferred they had not used bondo to fit the buttplate but they told me all rifles they build they use that method. The stock cracked because the wood was not dry. Once wood dries it will still draw moisture if not sealed though. But I believe swelling is reduced unless you soak it in water. Even sealed I assume stocks still can draw moisture. If the parts were fitted dry I think you be less prone to things tightening and stressing the stock. Jim Kimbler dries his stocks down to something like 30 percent i saw him say in one of his early videos. I assume that is a safe starting point for fitting parts knowing that wood shrinks and expands depending on environment. He’s a pretty smart guy I trust what he says. Anyway water under the bridge at this point.
 
Bondo is the stuff used to fix dents/holes in car bodies. How one would use it to fill a gap in a gun stock, I have no idea. It would never blend in. Semper Fi.
They actually went out of way to make it look like wood with some texture and then stained it to a color similar to what cherry looks like. I didn’t realize it was bondo until I used a sanding drum to reduce the curve at the back of the butt stock to get the buttplate to fit and whitish powder appeared LOL. Again even though they used bondo that is not what caused the stock to crack. Obviously I would have preferred they had not used bondo to fit the buttplate but they told me all rifles they build they use that method. The stock cracked because the wood was not dry. Once wood dries it will still draw moisture if not sealed though. But I believe swelling is reduced unless you soak it in water. Even sealed I assume stocks still can draw moisture. If the parts were fitted dry I think you be less prone to things tightening and stressing the stock. Jim Kimbler dries his stocks down to something like 30 percent i saw him say in one of his early videos. I assume that is a safe starting point for fitting parts knowing that wood shrinks and expands depending on environment. He’s a pretty smart guy I trust what he says. Anyway water under the bridge at this point.
 
They actually went out of way to make it look like wood with some texture and then stained it to a color similar to what cherry looks like. I didn’t realize it was bondo until I used a sanding drum to reduce the curve at the back of the butt stock to get the buttplate to fit and whitish powder appeared LOL. Again even though they used bondo that is not what caused the stock to crack. Obviously I would have preferred they had not used bondo to fit the buttplate but they told me all rifles they build they use that method. The stock cracked because the wood was not dry. Once wood dries it will still draw moisture if not sealed though. But I believe swelling is reduced unless you soak it in water. Even sealed I assume stocks still can draw moisture. If the parts were fitted dry I think you be less prone to things tightening and stressing the stock. Jim Kimbler dries his stocks down to something like 30 percent i saw him say in one of his early videos. I assume that is a safe starting point for fitting parts knowing that wood shrinks and expands depending on environment. He’s a pretty smart guy I trust what he says. Anyway water under the bridge at this point.
Point taken. An old dog learning new stuff. Semper Fi.
 
They actually went out of way to make it look like wood with some texture and then stained it to a color similar to what cherry looks like. I didn’t realize it was bondo until I used a sanding drum to reduce the curve at the back of the butt stock to get the buttplate to fit and whitish powder appeared LOL. Again even though they used bondo that is not what caused the stock to crack. Obviously I would have preferred they had not used bondo to fit the buttplate but they told me all rifles they build they use that method. The stock cracked because the wood was not dry. Once wood dries it will still draw moisture if not sealed though. But I believe swelling is reduced unless you soak it in water. Even sealed I assume stocks still can draw moisture. If the parts were fitted dry I think you be less prone to things tightening and stressing the stock. Jim Kimbler dries his stocks down to something like 30 percent i saw him say in one of his early videos. I assume that is a safe starting point for fitting parts knowing that wood shrinks and expands depending on environment. He’s a pretty smart guy I trust what he says. Anyway water under the bridge at this point.
Who’s “they”?
If using bondo is common practice for them in building all their rifles, it would be good to know who they are, for those contemplating one of their guns.
 
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My opinion is this company stinks period....and I believe the members here have a right to know who they are, so they don't get burned also. If naming them is not possible or refusing. Then delete the thread.
If anyone knows what company this is...Please let us know...
 
Personally, I would get my $2350 back and go somewhere else.

Do that, and buy a Kibler. You will have a great rife with no shortcomings and a few bucks in your wallet.

I added a few more thoughts:

IMHO $2350 is way to cheap for a quality rifle that is made for you. IT is very amateurish. I see lots of mistakes and shortcuts. Referring to post 18, the barrel is inletted crooked. That is tough to "fix". The barrel needs to be in straight. That accounts for the lock bolster gap. Several other issues were photographed. The side plate bolt holed were wallowed out. Crooked front sight. The lock is as cast. The stock around the breech plug is done wrong. I see a rifle made by someone who lacks skills or is slipping with age and selling a past reputation.

It can not be made "right". It can be made to shoot. That said, I hate working on other peoples messes. For that reason you may have a hard time getting help. How much more should be spent on it? I see many hours of messing with it. Do real gunsmiths work for free? Maybe $1000 more to clean it up? You might have to drop a lot on money down this rabbit hole. It may be a precarve stock was used. That is about two strikes before any chips are made. Then again you will not get a nice plank built rifle for $2350.

If he takes it back for inspection, good. Once he has it in hand, I would try to persuade him to refund. Maybe say you did not realized his style of work was "historically correct rustic". And, that is not for you. You can figure it out. Have others read the letter or email. Be nice, do not confront or criticize. IF he has a following, he can sell it again.
how is $2350 way to cheap for a rifle made for a person? are you making a joke?
 
how is $2350 way to cheap for a rifle made for a person? are you making a joke?
I’m trying to figure that one out myself? 2350$ is a chunk of change, if I paid that much for a rifle and got what you got… you bet I’d be on the phone to the builder. I’ve seen some really nice rifles/ fowlers go for less than that on this site and others. For around the same money Ken Netting has a few in his shop that he would sell.. and those ARE nice!
 
Pick your artists wisely or your portraitist will be a poor man’s work of art. Before using a builder I always would ask for multiple pictures and customer references and commendations.
 
I’m trying to figure that one out myself? 2350$ is a chunk of change, if I paid that much for a rifle and got what you got… you bet I’d be on the phone to the builder. I’ve seen some really nice rifles/ fowlers go for less than that on this site and others. For around the same money Ken Netting has a few in his shop that he would sell.. and those ARE nice!
almost all Pedersoli rifles I have seen new at almost half that price were gorgeous rifles
 
I’m trying to figure that one out myself? 2350$ is a chunk of change, if I paid that much for a rifle and got what you got… you bet I’d be on the phone to the builder. I’ve seen some really nice rifles/ fowlers go for less than that on this site and others. For around the same money Ken Netting has a few in his shop that he would sell.. and those ARE nice!
Are you sure Ken Netting builds rifles that inexpensively?
 

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