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Sighting in difficulties

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Joined
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Coming to the group to tap into the vast knowledge.

Have myself a beauty of a custom made rifle, 1792 Contract Rifle, this particular one made by Kashtuk Bowcraft. It's .54 caliber,

100512584_174249964026820_988543610016235520_n.jpg


I've really only shot smoothbores before and just potshots at the range at the steel, however lately I've had a renewed interest in shooting and getting more serious about doing the best with these guns that I can do. Had the opportunity to begin to try and get this rifle on target. I just watched Mike Bealiveau's videos on the basics of shooting, a lot of which I got, but putting into practice, eh we'll see. I managed to squeak in some range time today and was not super impressed.

Off the bench with a rest. I started with .526 with a .018 cotton patch lubed in minks oil, over 55grains of FF Goex. At 50 yards all 4 shots were low by 7" and just to the left of my POA. Reset with 60 grains and same result with 2 more shots. Decided to go with a .530 ball w/ 55grains and not sure I hit paper (could be me) it was pouring out today and I think the moisture started getting the better of me and began having some misfire's as another group of shooters settled in right next to me so I ended up calling it quits. I think I'd like to keep the .526 ball if possible it does seem quite easier to load, but not sure if that's too small a ball.

Next steps for me? Do I keep going up in powder loads and see if the trajectory straightens out? Is it better to keep inching up in 5 grain increments, or should I try a bit bigger? I realize each gun is different and there are lots of variables, looking for some general pointers and advice. Ideally I want to get into competitive shooting and biathlons so I'd like to be able to hit what I'm aiming for at 100yds, 100yds would make me a happy camper.
 
Don’t worry about where the group is on paper, shoot to find an accurate load first. If you have problems getting tight groups then get help to over come that. Once group size is attainEd then work on the sights to get in the bull. Trying to chase both will make it difficult to get either.
 
Not sure about how deep your rifling is or rate of twist but while working up a load, don't worry too much about filing down the sights as you really need to work on grouping first...Often these large calibers like larger powder charges, my hunting load is 80grs FFF under a .530 ball and a .018 patch lubed with either Moose Snot or SnoSeal...

Now, when working on loads, you need to put a tarp in front of the shooting bench and catch the patches...I often support it at the far end by about 2 feet to help it stop and retain patches...To shoot really tight groups, your patches should look like they can be used again...So...Here is what I would do if you are looking for a good target load...

Stay with the larger balls and tighter patches, clean between shots as you will be doing this in competition...Don't worry about smaller balls, thinner patches, etc until you have worked up your primary, best load...Also, if your patches look bad, slide a lubed patch on top of the powder before ramming the ball home...You can also use a felt wad or hornets nesting, what we are trying to do is protect the patch around the ball from burning too badly...

So, when I work up a load, I am basically working with the powder charge...Get this down and then you can work with the other components if needed...
 
You never mentioned group size. That should be the holy grail. If that's wired, it's only a matter of adjusting the sights.

Don't get wrapped up in where on paper, but worry far more about how far apart are the holes. The pic below is just an easy sight drift to put the entire group into the X ring.

kibler.jpg
 
You should just give it to me. It's clearly defective.

Beautiful rifle! :)

Develop load...charge, patch, ball for tightest group, THEN file/drift to bring it to desired impact relative to your hold. It takes time as you and the rifle get situated to each other.
 
The previous advice is pretty much what I would offer. Patch thickness needs to be as deep as the rifling or thicker to make a good seal. .018" ticking usually works in most deep rifled barrels, but I've also used .025" cotton duck and never had that cut or burn through. I use a steel range rod at the range for loading tight fitting loads.

Your loads sound very light for 54cal and 100 yard work. My .45 likes 60gr ffg, and my .50 likes 80gr fffg. The 48" twist .54 that I had seemed to shoot well with 85gr fffg. 5gr increments is good for fine tuning a load.

Damp weather and high humidity can contribute to misfires. Wipe the pan and frizzen between shots to remove the fouling. In those conditions it may be advantageous to load with a pick in the touch hole so that it is clear before firing.

BTW, beautiful rifle!
 
Cleaning in between every shot is not necessary, but make up your own mind on that.
What has not been mentioned is what to be looking for as you increase loads. I think you will be fine with the .526 or .530 ball.
Usually start with grains=caliber, so 55 is a good start. I like to use a 6 bull target so I can shoot each load at a different bull. Also, I start at 25 yards. Easier to see and I tend to have the same performance from my rifles at 50 yards as I do at 25. For load development I use a 6:00 hold. Shoot 3-5 shots for each group. Up the charge by 5 grains on each bull. So if you end up shooting all 6 bulls you will have gone from 55 to 80 grains. You want to look for which group prints highest and tightest. You may find that 75 and 80 are very similar, so settle on 75 to save powder. Once you have determined your load, then you adjust your sights.
 
Gentlemen,

This is why I love it here. Some excellent information here. The grouping wasn't awful, maybe 3/4" spread max, but that could be me. A photo of the target would have helped. I'll hopefully have the chance to get back out next week, i'll load up this thread on my phone and reference it as I go. I forgot about the barrel in terms of twist etc and who made it, reached out to the maker for that information.

IMG_4604.jpeg
 
Keep the Lock, Frizzen, and Flint clean! Keep flint tight in ****, it needs to be retorqued after couple strikes! Flat flints work best for staying tight in ****! Adjust flint face to be squared away with frizzen with frizzen closed; check that flint doesn’t strike barrel on downward travel! With frizzen closed and lock on half **** I like flint to just touch face of frizzen or just slightly off! In my custom Hawken, .54 caliber I find FF blackpowder along with swaged Hornady .530 ball to be highly accurate using Canola oil lube with .018” pillow ticking patch cut at muzzle! Charge is 100 grains! I use a damp patch to wipe each shot to eliminate a buildup of powder residue in barrel so I can seat patched ball to same depth each time! Keep pan clean and use touch hole pin after charging pan. Do not overload pan!
 
This arthritis in my left hand will soon take me out of shooting offhand. Maybe even off the bench. I thought I got what the OP said. Then got confused. So you got a 3/4 inch spread on those shots ? Nothing wrong with that. Unless you think you want to split the ball on an axe head at 100 yds. Please tell me what I'm missing here. Also, Those builders in York County, Pa make some excellent rifles. All three of them.
 
MAPMFF, if you experience cut or torn patches you can eliminate that by removing the sharp edges on that muzzle. I’m not suggesting you do it before there’s a problem but IF it comes up. Easily done with a piece of fine sand paper pressed into the muzzle with your thumb, then twist a bit and rotate around till it’s even. The one on the left is how I build them and the one on the right is one that was coned. The left one never cuts a patch and loads a tight parch and ball easily.
IMG_0421 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr
 
Yes, Use larger paper, try to find a very accurate load close to the power range you think you may need. File your site as needed when you get your group.

YES go to a Dollar Store type merchant, and get some gift wrapping paper. Reverse it and it's a huge sheet of white paper. Figure out where she hits and if you have a group or not. Then you make adjustments.

Also check your recovered patches. You probably want to try at least 5 shots to see where the true group is going. Also use the thinnest front sight post that your eyes will accept. Tough to be precise with that wonderfully long sight radius when the front sight post is like looking over the top of a two-by-four, and trying to center that on a quarter coin in the distance....,

LD
 
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