Steel vs Brass frame differences?

[Sound Tribe]

Hello, totally new to black powder but have been recommended to start with a pistol, preferably an 1851 Navy model. I actually prefer these anyways.

What is the major differences between steel and brass frames though? I know only the steel frame can be converted to a cartridge shooter...
I'd prefer brass due to the looks honestly, but I also want the conversion option available.

Any other reasons I should consider?
Thanks

 

[Phil Coffins]

Get the 1851 of your choice and a cartridge gun separately. The conversion kit works but isn’t as nice as a pistol designed for cartridges.

 

[CaptainVane]

Get the steel Uberti.

 

[mushka]

I have an 1851 Pietta, an1860 Uberti, and an 1858 Uberti, all are steel frame and all very satisfactory. Can't help with the brass frames but a lot of people have them and are satisfied. Leave the cartridge guns to cartridge guns would be my suggestion.

 

[springfield art]

Hello, totally new to black powder but have been recommended to start with a pistol, preferably an 1851 Navy model. I actually prefer these anyways.

What is the major differences between steel and brass frames though? I know only the steel frame can be converted to a cartridge shooter...
I'd prefer brass due to the looks honestly, but I also want the conversion option available.

Any other reasons I should consider?
Thanks

Over time, esp. with heavy use, the brass will kind of "stretch" a bit, loosen up somewhat. The steel costs a bit more, but will last forever if cared for. I saw a brass 1851 in .44 cal. recently (the originals didn't come in .44!) and it looks great. It would be fun to shoot a 1851-style in .44, I'd think. Steel only if using the other type cylinder.

 

[Sound Tribe]

Get the steel Uberti.

I keep hearing uberti vs pietta.
What does everyone prefer?

Also I might ne interested in 1860 army as well. I hear pretty has a worse looking finish but is a better mechanically built.fun.

And the uberti looks nicer but needs some fine tuning to work well

P.s. any reason not to get black powder pellets vs the powder itself?

 

[45D]

The conversion kit works but isn’t as nice as a pistol designed for cartridges.

Depends on the execution of . . .

Mechanical accuracy can be every bit as good as a Freedom Arms. My converted revolvers are better than the factory unmentionable offerings I've seen lately. Just sayin . . .

This one (patterned after the MWNN ) is a "working" shop tool with .002" endshake ( I know, but FA doesn't make an Open Top)) and is setup much nicer than an OTB version.

Mike

 

[Phil Coffins]

Depends on the execution of . . .

Mechanical accuracy can be every bit as good as a Freedom Arms. My converted revolvers are better than the factory unmentionable offerings I've seen lately. Just sayin . . .

Mike

There in lays the reason for my suggestion. For most new users the unaltered pistol is Ok. Then the hope is to mearly put the conversation in and shoot. A tuned firearm of any type changes the experience.

 

[Sound Tribe]

There in lays the reason for my suggestion. For most new users the unaltered pistol is Ok. Then the hope is to mearly put the conversation in and shoot. A tuned firearm of any type changes the experience.

My states laws are ridiculous so the conversion kit wouldn't be a bad choicen in the meantime as the paperwork is on hold for months. Can you order the cowboy loads and get them shipped without restrictions though?

P.s. got lucky and scored 6 tins of percussion caps at local cabelas so I can go ahead and get my revolver next.

Any recommendation on 36cal navy vs 44cal army

 

[45D]

There in lays the reason for my suggestion. For most new users the unaltered pistol is Ok. Then the hope is to mearly put the conversation in and shoot. A tuned firearm of any type changes the experience.

I agree.

Mike

 

[azmntman]

I too like brass but never bought one as I was always a MAX power guy (when younger). I'm now an accuracy nut and find the loads that shoot best are very much acceptable for the brass revolvers. Maybe I get one?

 

[CaptainVane]

As said above… get a dedicated firearm for what you want. I have zero interest in conversions.
I have a Virginia Dragoon.44 magnum and a Ruger .22 Single six ( i did not say that, my post was hacked) that i use for unmentionable type shooting.
And 3 cap and ball that i love and have zero interest in converting to some cartridge type pistol.
As they say, do one thing and do it well.

 

[45D]

As said above… get a dedicated firearm for what you want. I have zero interest in conversions.

Well there ya go!! CaptainVane doesn't like conversions so you shouldn't either!!
I'll tell Walt he can close down his business!!

As they say, do one thing and do it well.

I agree totally!!! And that's exactly what I do . . .


Mike

 

[M. De Land]

Hello, totally new to black powder but have been recommended to start with a pistol, preferably an 1851 Navy model. I actually prefer these anyways.

What is the major differences between steel and brass frames though? I know only the steel frame can be converted to a cartridge shooter...
I'd prefer brass due to the looks honestly, but I also want the conversion option available.

Any other reasons I should consider?
Thanks

I have a brass frame 51 from Navy Arms in .44 cal that I believe has had some heavy loads shot through it and it is a basket case now. The arbor is loose in the frame threads and the cylinder nipple access ports have imprinted into the recoil shield.
I had this given to me to see if I could save it by bushing the threads and refacing the recoil shield in steel, and idea I've had for some time to restore brass frame guns but have not gotten around to experimenting with.
I have taken some photos of it and don't recognize the maker for Navy Arms, hoping one of you can identify the logo and help me with.
Click on to enlarge

 

[M. De Land]

Depends on the execution of . . .

Mechanical accuracy can be every bit as good as a Freedom Arms. My converted revolvers are better than the factory unmentionable offerings I've seen lately. Just sayin . . .

View attachment 259477

This one (patterned after the MWNN ) is a "working" shop tool with .002" endshake ( I know, but FA doesn't make an Open Top)) and is setup much nicer than an OTB version.

Mike

Is that filed off wedge keep screw a sort of Logo of yours ?

 

[Gee Dog]

Stay away from brass .44’s if the intention is to actually do some shooting. Those are a loosing proposition. If one is only interested in a “bright shiny object” without any sense of history, then fine, go for it.

 

[45D]

Is that filed off wedge keep screw a sort of Logo of yours ?

No sir, it allows the spring on on my "captured wedge" to pass through for removal. The screw head, when tightened, is the stop for the wedge (as for exiting).

The protocol is to drive the wedge in until the spring "pops up" behind the screw head. That means it is "in" as far as it's going to go. If it goes in further, you tighten the "wedge bearing " so that it just pops up as normal. That maintains a tight fit that can't loosen up and allow battering of the two assemblies.

Mike

 

[Sound Tribe]

I have a brass frame 51 from Navy Arms in .44 cal that I believe has had some heavy loads shot through it and it is a basket case now. The arbor is loose in the frame threads and the cylinder nipple access ports have imprinted into the recoil shield.
I had this given to me to see if I could save it by bushing the threads and refacing the recoil shield in steel, and idea I've had for some time to restore brass frame guns but have not gotten around to experimenting with.
I have taken some photos of it and don't recognize the maker for Navy Arms, hoping one of you can identify the logo and help me with.
Click on to enlarge

Thanks for that info, I've decided to stay with a steel frame.
I like the 1851 Navy but want to keep it "authentic" in .36cal
It seems there are more accessories/items/etc for .44 though, which I'd go for an 1860 Army if I was doing that caliber.

Main differences btwn 1851 in .36 vs 1860 in .44? I'm wondering if its just better to go for bigger caliber for better range/power, but are they more accurate too?

thanks again for any info thats posted

 

[M. De Land]

No sir, it allows the spring on on my "captured wedge" to pass through for removal. The screw head, when tightened, is the stop for the wedge.

The protocol is to drive the wedge in until the spring "pops up" behind the screw head. That means it is "in" as far as it's going to go. If it goes in further, you tighten the "wedge bearing " so that it just pops up as normal. That maintains a tight fit that can't loosen up and allow battering of the two assemblies.

Mike

I know what it's for but have not seen it on other guns and wonder why it is necessary if the spring can be depressed under a full head screw to release the wedge.

 

[45D]

I know what it's for but have not seen it on other guns and wonder why it is necessary if the spring can be depressed under a full head screw to release the wedge.

It's the same idea of a solid wedge with a "cut" for the screw head to engage. The spring acts as a "one way" valve that allows it to pass by the screw head but the screw head has to be "out of the way" to allow it to escape.
No, you won't see this on other revolvers but that's one of the differences of my "captured wedges" from run of the mill revolvers.

Remember this?

Mike