TC Renegade bad breech plug: fixable? Advice requested.

[JoeG]

Thread location would be the same, not sure why you would lose 1/2" of barrel length. I'm doing a Renegade barrel once it comes back from being bored out, it will no longer have 11/16 threads and still be 26" barrel.

 

[Lookingforiron945]

Hello,
I had the same thing happen with the breech plug on my .54 caliber.
I had my buddy weld it and it’s never given me any trouble.
I proofed it with a few real heavy powder loads.I sand bagged the rifle and pulled the trigger with a sting just to be safe and it’s held up.

 

[Lookingforiron945]

I had to file a small amount of metal off of the lock where the breech plug rests to make room for the weld.

 

[Lookingforiron945]

Hello,

I had the same problem when I bought a used T/C breech plug too use in a Douglas barrel.
I noticed the small amount of smoke coming from inside the stock.
I had a good friend of mine weld it closed.
I shot it with a few heavy powder loads to see if it would hold up and it fine.
I had to take some material off the lock so the barrel would seat into the stock.

 

[Lookingforiron945]

Sorry for the repeat.
I don’t post much.I didn’t think my first post went through.
Cheers

 

[Lookingforiron945]

 

[Lookingforiron945]

 

[Lookingforiron945]

I removed the breech plug to weld it.
It was really hard to get it out.
In hindsight I could have just welded it with it installed with no problems.

 

[flntlokr]

you dont have to find a breech plug just file the snail off/flat with the barrel and install a touch hole liner works fantastic with a replacement rock lock

I always wondered if that would work out.

 

[user 34300]

What was the solution for the ruined nipple threads?

 

[Drain_Bamage]

Hello,
I had the same thing happen with the breech plug on my .54 caliber.
I had my buddy weld it and it’s never given me any trouble.
I proofed it with a few real heavy powder loads.I sand bagged the rifle and pulled the trigger with a sting just to be safe and it’s held up.

Glad to hear it worked out!
If that 5/16 nipple from TotW works out, I might just order a couple, weld it up, and shoot it.

I had to file a small amount of metal off of the lock where the breech plug rests to make room for the weld.

Perfect! I'm fairly handy with a file, or at least I think I am, so that's not too much of a stretch.

Sorry for the repeat.
I don’t post much.I didn’t think my first post went through.
Cheers

No worries! I appreciate the reply AND the pictures! You did exactly what I was thinking about, so having that validation helps. That looks like a TIG weld? It's a lot nicer than my MIG work, that's for sure!

I removed the breech plug to weld it.
It was really hard to get it out.
In hindsight I could have just welded it with it installed with no problems.

I figured I'd leave it in. I doubt it would hurt anything and it kinda looked like a nightmare to replace

Out of curiosity, in your particular case was this a failure of the bolster, bad QC, or some overzealous repair work? Cheers!

 

[SDSmlf]

Thread location would be the same, not sure why you would lose 1/2" of barrel length. I'm doing a Renegade barrel once it comes back from being bored out, it will no longer have 11/16 threads and still be 26" barrel.

It will depend on the 3/4” thread you choose. I know from a valve I was involved with manufacturing that used a 3/4-12 thread the tap drill for it was 17mm (.6693”), a little smaller than the 11/16” thread you are boring out. I see TOW has breech plugs with 3/4-16 threads. As long as you clean up the old threads right at 11/16”, that will work as the tap drill for 3/14-16 is 11/16” for 77% theoretical thread.

 

[Drain_Bamage]

you dont have to find a breech plug just file the snail off/flat with the barrel and install a touch hole liner works fantastic with a replacement rock lock

I always wondered if that would work out.

An interesting thought! I hadn't considered turning it into a flintlock, or maybe I did and discounted it before I looked it up? Regardless, even I could probably drill & tap a flash hole

L&R RPL 03 should be a direct fit for the Renegade.

https://lr-rpl.com/product/rpl-tc-flintlock-parts-03/https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/759/1/LOCK-LR-03-F
Something to think about anyway

 

[Drain_Bamage]

Well, thought about it. I'd have to cut off the entire bolster and then hope that the remaining hole lined up with the pan in the lock. I found some cutaway pics of the TC patent breech for a percussion barrel and based on how the channel runs, I'd have to get real lucky for this to be a fun/successful experiment. I'm not sure converting to a flinchlock would be a good idea here.

$250 for that L&R 03 rock lock is more or less the price of a used Renegade percussion barrel. The search continues.

 

[JoeG]

It will depend on the 3/4” thread you choose. I know from a valve I was involved with manufacturing that used a 3/4-12 thread the tap drill for it was 17mm (.6693”), a little smaller than the 11/16” thread you are boring out. I see TOW has breech plugs with 3/4-16 threads. As long as you clean up the old threads right at 11/16”, that will work as the tap drill for 3/14-16 is 11/16” for 77% theoretical thread.

I am aware of the dimensional requirements, I didn't pull any numbers out of the air when I suggested it I've done it before. Coarse threads are generally not used on these items , a good set of 3/4-16 UNF threads will drop right in.

Who would ever use a 3/4-12 threads on a breech plug? Does anyone even make one with 12 t.p.i.? I google it and all I get are 16 pitch threads. Why replace one odd ball thread with another?

 

[Rebel bull]

Those will not fit the TC factory barrel threads, which happen to 11/16-20. Have you ever actually replaced a TC factory installed breech plug?

You obviously haven't seen a T/C breech plug in percussion,

obviously sir you are the one that hasn't tried it I have done several some times you have to do a slight weld if you are looking for perfection some times you don't need to do anything, if after you file / grind the snail down to match the flats on the barrel there may remain a small cast divot left from the snail the first one i did was my personal one for a smoothbore match ( had to be flint lock, single trigger, no rear sight. I con verted my 56cal smoothbore TC from percussion to flint and added a L&R lock

 

[TNTraveler]

obviously sir you are the one that hasn't tried it I have done several some times you have to do a slight weld if you are looking for perfection some times you don't need to do anything, if after you file / grind the snail down to match the flats on the barrel there may remain a small cast divot left from the snail the first one i did was my personal one for a smoothbore match ( had to be flint lock, single trigger, no rear sight. I con verted my 56cal smoothbore TC from percussion to flint and added a L&R lockView attachment 206867

I have been schooled, I never would have thought that would work, I have a couple of bad BP ill have to try this on one, hats off to you sir

 

[Nor'Easter]

Well, thought about it. I'd have to cut off the entire bolster and then hope that the remaining hole lined up with the pan in the lock. I found some cutaway pics of the TC patent breech for a percussion barrel and based on how the channel runs, I'd have to get real lucky for this to be a fun/successful experiment. I'm not sure converting to a flinchlock would be a good idea here.

$250 for that L&R 03 rock lock is more or less the price of a used Renegade percussion barrel. The search continues.

Check your mail, I sent you a message.

 

[SDSmlf]

Who would ever use a 3/4-12 threads on a breech plug? Does anyone even make one with 12 t.p.i.? I google it and all I get are 16 pitch threads. Why replace one odd ball thread with another?

I wasn’t suggesting a 3/4-12 thread, I knew the 3/4” threads need a tap drill size right around 11/16”, and without checking a chart, I remembered the drill for a 3/4-12 was just under 11/16”. That’s why I followed up on my earlier post with the numbers and agreed with you that it would work, it was just close. I don’t have tap drill charts for various threads memorized.

 

[Rebel bull]

Well, thought about it. I'd have to cut off the entire bolster and then hope that the remaining hole lined up with the pan in the lock. I found some cutaway pics of the TC patent breech for a percussion barrel and based on how the channel runs, I'd have to get real lucky for this to be a fun/successful experiment. I'm not sure converting to a flinchlock would be a good idea here.

$250 for that L&R 03 rock lock is more or less the price of a used Renegade percussion barrel. The search continues.

on the ones that i have done the touch hole works perfect also you should be able to use a lyman lock find a used one on ebay