TC Renegade bad breech plug: fixable? Advice requested.

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thread location would be the same, not sure why you would lose 1/2" of barrel length. I'm doing a Renegade barrel once it comes back from being bored out, it will no longer have 11/16 threads and still be 26" barrel.
 
Hello,
I had the same thing happen with the breech plug on my .54 caliber.
I had my buddy weld it and it’s never given me any trouble.
I proofed it with a few real heavy powder loads.I sand bagged the rifle and pulled the trigger with a sting just to be safe and it’s held up.
 
Hello,

I had the same problem when I bought a used T/C breech plug too use in a Douglas barrel.
I noticed the small amount of smoke coming from inside the stock.
I had a good friend of mine weld it closed.
I shot it with a few heavy powder loads to see if it would hold up and it fine.
I had to take some material off the lock so the barrel would seat into the stock.
 
1679050185853.jpeg
 
Hello,
I had the same thing happen with the breech plug on my .54 caliber.
I had my buddy weld it and it’s never given me any trouble.
I proofed it with a few real heavy powder loads.I sand bagged the rifle and pulled the trigger with a sting just to be safe and it’s held up.
Glad to hear it worked out!
If that 5/16 nipple from TotW works out, I might just order a couple, weld it up, and shoot it.

I had to file a small amount of metal off of the lock where the breech plug rests to make room for the weld.
Perfect! I'm fairly handy with a file, or at least I think I am, so that's not too much of a stretch.
Sorry for the repeat.
I don’t post much.I didn’t think my first post went through.
Cheers
No worries! I appreciate the reply AND the pictures! You did exactly what I was thinking about, so having that validation helps. That looks like a TIG weld? It's a lot nicer than my MIG work, that's for sure!
I removed the breech plug to weld it.
It was really hard to get it out.
In hindsight I could have just welded it with it installed with no problems.
I figured I'd leave it in. I doubt it would hurt anything and it kinda looked like a nightmare to replace :D

Out of curiosity, in your particular case was this a failure of the bolster, bad QC, or some overzealous repair work? Cheers!
 
Thread location would be the same, not sure why you would lose 1/2" of barrel length. I'm doing a Renegade barrel once it comes back from being bored out, it will no longer have 11/16 threads and still be 26" barrel.
It will depend on the 3/4” thread you choose. I know from a valve I was involved with manufacturing that used a 3/4-12 thread the tap drill for it was 17mm (.6693”), a little smaller than the 11/16” thread you are boring out. I see TOW has breech plugs with 3/4-16 threads. As long as you clean up the old threads right at 11/16”, that will work as the tap drill for 3/14-16 is 11/16” for 77% theoretical thread.
 
you dont have to find a breech plug just file the snail off/flat with the barrel and install a touch hole liner works fantastic with a replacement rock lock

I always wondered if that would work out.

An interesting thought! I hadn't considered turning it into a flintlock, or maybe I did and discounted it before I looked it up? Regardless, even I could probably drill & tap a flash hole ;)

L&R RPL 03 should be a direct fit for the Renegade.

https://lr-rpl.com/product/rpl-tc-flintlock-parts-03/https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/759/1/LOCK-LR-03-F
Something to think about anyway
 
Well, thought about it. I'd have to cut off the entire bolster and then hope that the remaining hole lined up with the pan in the lock. I found some cutaway pics of the TC patent breech for a percussion barrel and based on how the channel runs, I'd have to get real lucky for this to be a fun/successful experiment. I'm not sure converting to a flinchlock would be a good idea here.

$250 for that L&R 03 rock lock is more or less the price of a used Renegade percussion barrel. The search continues.
 
It will depend on the 3/4” thread you choose. I know from a valve I was involved with manufacturing that used a 3/4-12 thread the tap drill for it was 17mm (.6693”), a little smaller than the 11/16” thread you are boring out. I see TOW has breech plugs with 3/4-16 threads. As long as you clean up the old threads right at 11/16”, that will work as the tap drill for 3/14-16 is 11/16” for 77% theoretical thread.


I am aware of the dimensional requirements, I didn't pull any numbers out of the air when I suggested it I've done it before. Coarse threads are generally not used on these items , a good set of 3/4-16 UNF threads will drop right in.

Who would ever use a 3/4-12 threads on a breech plug? Does anyone even make one with 12 t.p.i.? I google it and all I get are 16 pitch threads. Why replace one odd ball thread with another?
 
Those will not fit the TC factory barrel threads, which happen to 11/16-20. Have you ever actually replaced a TC factory installed breech plug?
You obviously haven't seen a T/C breech plug in percussion,
obviously sir you are the one that hasn't tried it I have done several some times you have to do a slight weld if you are looking for perfection some times you don't need to do anything, if after you file / grind the snail down to match the flats on the barrel there may remain a small cast divot left from the snail the first one i did was my personal one for a smoothbore match ( had to be flint lock, single trigger, no rear sight. I con verted my 56cal smoothbore TC from percussion to flint and added a L&R lock
1679089690146.jpeg
 
obviously sir you are the one that hasn't tried it I have done several some times you have to do a slight weld if you are looking for perfection some times you don't need to do anything, if after you file / grind the snail down to match the flats on the barrel there may remain a small cast divot left from the snail the first one i did was my personal one for a smoothbore match ( had to be flint lock, single trigger, no rear sight. I con verted my 56cal smoothbore TC from percussion to flint and added a L&R lockView attachment 206867
I have been schooled, I never would have thought that would work, I have a couple of bad BP ill have to try this on one, hats off to you sir
 
Well, thought about it. I'd have to cut off the entire bolster and then hope that the remaining hole lined up with the pan in the lock. I found some cutaway pics of the TC patent breech for a percussion barrel and based on how the channel runs, I'd have to get real lucky for this to be a fun/successful experiment. I'm not sure converting to a flinchlock would be a good idea here.

$250 for that L&R 03 rock lock is more or less the price of a used Renegade percussion barrel. The search continues.
Check your mail, I sent you a message.
 
Who would ever use a 3/4-12 threads on a breech plug? Does anyone even make one with 12 t.p.i.? I google it and all I get are 16 pitch threads. Why replace one odd ball thread with another?
I wasn’t suggesting a 3/4-12 thread, I knew the 3/4” threads need a tap drill size right around 11/16”, and without checking a chart, I remembered the drill for a 3/4-12 was just under 11/16”. That’s why I followed up on my earlier post with the numbers and agreed with you that it would work, it was just close. I don’t have tap drill charts for various threads memorized.
 
Well, thought about it. I'd have to cut off the entire bolster and then hope that the remaining hole lined up with the pan in the lock. I found some cutaway pics of the TC patent breech for a percussion barrel and based on how the channel runs, I'd have to get real lucky for this to be a fun/successful experiment. I'm not sure converting to a flinchlock would be a good idea here.

$250 for that L&R 03 rock lock is more or less the price of a used Renegade percussion barrel. The search continues.
on the ones that i have done the touch hole works perfect also you should be able to use a lyman lock find a used one on ebay
 
Back
Top