thinking about getting a flinter...

[S.Kenton]

well...I'm kicking the idea around about getting a flintlock..I've seen a few for sale at my local gunshow and was curious what was the most reliable and best factory made rifle or smooth bore. I say factory made because I don't have the funds available to purchase a custom made rifle. What should I look for as far as defects and lock function? I know to check the bore for rust, along with other basics as I have been shooting BP for a number of years...but am clueless about FLINTERS..
I'm grateful for an help!

 

[Darkgael]

Arguably, the best value for the dollar is the Lyman Great Plains Rifle. The one that I own (and I am at least the third man to own and use this rifle) is marvelously reliable and accurate.
Pete

 

[Darkgael]

Arguably, the best value for the dollar is the Lyman Great Plains Rifle. The one that I own (and I am at least the third man to own and use this rifle) is marvelously reliable and accurate.
Pete
ps - the GPR gave me this group at 100 yards. Benched.

 

[ebiggs1]

I agree, the Lyman is probably the “best buy” but it is inferior to the Thompson Center Hawken, in almost every point.
If I had the two in front of me and they were for sale for the same price, I would grab the TC every time. That said, I would be just as happy with the GPR after some easy modifications. The barrel is the best part of the Lyman. It is great.

 

[S.Kenton]

thanks guys! I'll keep my eye out for both. I am very familiar with both the T/C and lyman GPR..just not the flintlock versions of either. I own both brands in percussion.

 

[lonehorseman]

Always check the Classifieds here on the forum. Once you go flint you will never go back!

 

[Zoar]

I could be wrong but EVERYONE I spoke with who owned a Thompson Center Hawken admitted it kicked like a mule; it had a much more severe kick compared to same caliber, powder charge and payload in the Lyman GPR...

The stock design of the Thompson Center Hawken is radically different compared to the Lyman GPR.

I prefer the Lyman GPR by a long shot.

 

[ebiggs1]

The stock design is a personal matter. Yes, the TC is a more modern style. But there is simply no argument as to which has the better quality parts and manufacture. I might give the GPR higher marks on it's barrel but not by much. The lock, trigger and touch hole, the wood? Really? To each his own. :hmm:

 

[S.Kenton]

I'LL be honest..I like the GPR over the T/C in the percussion. I like the way the GPR "feels" and the balance seems better.BUT I think I am going after a full stock for my flinter and would rather have wedges rather than pins holding the barrel..those are really the only preferences I have. I am starting my research tomorrow..I think I will find what I am looking for this fall at the "Coon Dog Trials" a HUGE gun show/ flea market we have in Lima Ohio.I passed a few flinters up last year due to not really knowing what I was buying. Anyhow.. Thanks to all who answered my questions.

 

[Stony]

What to check for?
1. Does the flint throw lots of sparks (+1) or just a few (-1)?

2. Is the edge of the flint "pointing" to the pan (+1) or somewhere else (-1)?

3. Does the flint start scrapping the frizzen about 1/3 of the way from the top (+1) or half way or lower (-1)?

4. Is the touch hole in the "sunset" position (+1) or somewhere else in relation to the pan (-1)?

Get 4 points and you may have a winner!

 

[Zoar]

S Kenton----Yea, that Great Plains Lyman FLINTLOCK would probably be your best bet based on what you already know and based on price-to-performance ratio.

Let us know what you find!

 

[Lonegun1894]

I have 1 TC, and 3 GPRs, so you may call me prejudiced. Having said that, the finish is better on the TC, but the GPR feels, balances, and (for me) shoots better. Then again you have the TC warranty that can't be beat, but I haven't had to use it yet.

 

[tg]

I would second the suggestion of looking for a used gun, there are some good eals around the last few uyears and do not be concerned about wedges over pins as the barrel rarely needs to come out of a fullstock rifle. it can easily be cleaned in place with patches, wet then dry or if one is not able to do the typical method they have somre modern doo dads that clamp on...not needed at all,but used by some, but removing the barrel is simply not a requirement.

 

I have owned a 50 cal. TC flintlock for many years and have been very pleased with it. I have used both round balls and the TC Maxi-ball with good results. I have mostly used the TC flints. I don't know if the Lyman uses a coil spring lock like the TC, which in my opinion is a plus. The TC is certainly not a historically correct replica, but it is one tough rifle that shoots very well. Lock time is very fast on mine. Good luck.

 

[MSW]

In a perfect world, you'd be able to actually shoot a Lyman and a T/C and decide for yourself which you prefer. I wouldn't feel bad about having either one, putting my personal preference slightly towards the T/C (but that's just my personal preference, and it might or might not be the best for you).

You will most likely end up with a .50 calibre, which is more than enough for deer. When I bought my rifle, many years ago, that was all there was, unless you had a gun custom built. If you can get a .54, I'd go for it- the extra size gets you a pretty good increase in 'whompability,' and a marginal increase in the cost of powder and lead. (as an aside, supplies are more common in .50, but you'll doubtless end up casting your own ball anyway)

I don't know why, but when I contacted T/C about a new frizzen, the lady on the phone said to just send in the whole lock and they'd send in the new design. This took a total of four calender days, and cost postage. ... a new lock for i guess five bucks or so, and they threw in a touch hole liner to boot.

The new lock came with one of those cut agate thingies. For the life of me I don't know why they try to get us to use them- I for one have never had good result with cut agate, so if I were in your position, I'd avoid cut agate and get some Black English flints from Tom Fuller, or some lumpy ugly spark- like- a- fiend flints from Rich Pierce (he's on the forum and a really nice fellow)

Rich Pierce
504 West Drive
St. Louis, MO 63130
314-800-5018
[email protected]

can't remember what I paid, but they're tough, long lasting flints which throw a huge shower of sparks, so I use them and the others are in my drawer of stuff I'll use if everything else is used up.

If you want to "look cool," get some French Amber. They're wicked expensive, and they don't work any better or worse than Black English flints, but they do look sorta neat. I have a few, but they're in a wall hanger just to look nice. Do this if you want- after all, it's your money: spend it in whatever way pleases you.

For maximum accuracy, check out Dutch Schoultz' monograph ... he's at
http://www.blackpowderrifleaccuracy.com/

at first glance this might be a bit spendy for a monograph, but the cost is well worth it in time and frustration you don't spend, and if you consider what an hour of decent coaching wold set you back, it's really a great bargain. His system will provide you with the best groups you can shoot, and you'll be surprised how small these groups can be.

now, by way of warning, you are about to engage in a highly addictive activity... soon, all your friends will wonder what happened, and why you get all excited about a bunch of sharp rocks.


bwahahaha (insert mad scientist laugh) another one turned to the dark side.

:rotf:

make good smoke!

 

[MJMarkey]

Just do it. Once you've tried a decent flintlock you'll never shoot caps again. I've got a friend who started with inline went to TC caplock, Loved that till we met and he shot my flintlocks. Now he he wants a flintlock so bad I think he'd sell his first born.

 

[Zonie]

I always wonder when I hear of people who would never go back to shooting a percussion after they have shot a flintlock.

I'm sure there are a few but most of the folks I know truly love to shoot both styles of guns.

I know I have both styles and really enjoy them all.

 

[kodiakmarine]

I have recently bought a flinter, a used Lyman Trade Rifle. I will hopefully have the chance to give it a much needed refinishing this week. I also recommend the Lyman GPR. I used to have one in percussion and I wish I had held on to it. It was a much better rifle than the more expensive Hatfield I owned afterwards. I haven't owned a TC, but they have a reputation for being well made and they look it. The Lyman is also a well made gun.

One thing I like about Lymans is their deep (for an inexpensive factory gun) rifling. Most factory guns have shallow rifling, .005 of an inch. Lyman rifles in .50 caliber have .009, and in 54 caliber .008. This makes them much easier to load and clean.

I also agree with Jim. I am eager to try a flinter, but my next gun will have an interchageable flint to percussion lock. I will want to be able to shoot both.

Good luck with whatever you choose. - John

 

[kodiakmarine]

I forgot to add that the Lyman GPR comes the closest of the factory guns in its actual resemblance to a Hawken rifle. If you remove the bluing with some naval jelly and then brown the barrel and furniture, the resemblence is even stronger. I doubt that HC/PC is your main concern, but it's worth considering. - John

 

[MFordney]

I always wonder when I hear of people who would never go back to shooting a percussion after they have shot a flintlock.

I'm sure there are a few but most of the folks I know truly love to shoot both styles of guns.

I know I have both styles and really enjoy them all.

I started out with a cap lock, and now own 3 flintlocks, and have zero desire to ever shoot another caplock gun. (Unless it were say an 1851 Navy Revolver or something like that.) I can't say that I know why... there's just something about a rock lock. :youcrazy: