Thinking about getting a revolver

[pargent]

Burst cyclinders did happen pre 1851 when a better quality STEEL was imported by Colt . The sizes and types of new steel and it's source can be found in yes COL. COLT LONDON.

 

[pargent]

BTW the reason most people feel the Reminton frame is stronger is that because most modern repro's have the frame made larger than the originals , the originals top strap is thinner and the front lower web is much beefier on repros . Frame twisting was not uncommon with originals and the early repros were even worse.

 

[don hepler]

Hey, here's a trick on selling a pistol. I had a Pietta,1860, that I tryed to sell for 150.00 and couldn't find a taker. I stripped the blue back to give it a worn look, stripped the grips and added an oil finish. It looked like it was 100 years old. I took it to a gun show, and before I could get in the door, sold it for 175.00. I told him it was a new gun, but from the look on his face, I believe he thought it was a true Antique, and that I didn't know the difference. Had Italian markings on it.

If it had been a Uberti, I wouldn't have been able to part with it. I think, Colt taught Uberti how to make guns the right way.

 

[Chilidog]

Yes, i agree. Uberti makes a fine colt reproduction. What I don't care for about the Piettas's is the stampings all over their pistols. Ruins the effect for me. With the Uberti the stamping is under the raming lever and out of sight. My son-in-law stripped his Uberti '51 like you and I really like the effect. I have three Uberti's a '51, a '60 as well as a '61 and really enjoy them all. My first was a Pietta that I got back in the early 80's before I knew any better and never use it. The stampings matter not to some folks but to me aesthetics is everything.

 

[Shifty]

Who has the best deal on one of them Ubertis now.

 

[don hepler]

Sportmans Warehouse, has Uberti 3rd model Dragoon for 349., Uberti Walker 359. and they sell other models made by Traditions. I have no idea about the Traditions, they sell for much less. I'd go for the Uberti.

I think I saw a 1851 for 289. and a 1860 for 299. and a 1858 for 349. I think this would be in the "good deal" price range.

 

[don hepler]

My mistake 1858 299.00

 

[M. De Land]

I don't know anything about Traditions quality but have had quite a bit of experience with working on Pietta guns which have pretty good steel in them and will tune up into fine shooting guns.
Uberti guns are a bit better fit and finished but I don't think there is any difference in the steel used which I believe is 8620. That is what I was told by a distributor of Uberti guns in regard to my Hi-wall receiver. I have case colored it and it takes good colors. It is a very strong steel that machines well.I did not specifically ask about hand gun receivers but the fact that they are often case colored pretty much tells me it is the same steel in use on the hand guns frames which is logical as well.
These clones of original guns are in most cases many times stronger than the originals because of the alloy steel used in them. MD

 

[M. De Land]

A bit more information on the 8620 steel.The number is a SAE code used to identify classes of steel for industrial use.
The first digit denotes the general alloying agents. In this case the 8 denote a nickle, chromium, molybenum alloy and the second digit gives the percent of the principle additive in this case .60 percent chrome, the last two digits tell the percentage(in hundreds-.20) of carbon in the alloy.
General carbon steel needs around .75 percent of carbon to be able to harden on it's own.
The low carbon content in 8620 makes it particularly responsive to case hardening while maintaining the strength and machining qualities of other modern steel alloys.It is very excellent for our black powder gun steel requirements. MD

 

[Shifty]

I think I said I think that alloy is what Edd Rayl uses in making his ML barrels, and everyone knows how good they are.

 

[George T.]

I have never found one that didn't shoot HIGH! I have two right now a Navy arms Remington and an Italian 1860 Army. Both shoot well group wise just HIGH! Geo. T.

 

[morehops]

The Ruger is the way to go if you want the best. You mentioned plinking and if you want to hit what you're aiming at the Ruger is not only accurate but the adjustable sights are very good and help a lot.
Also, if you decide you want to use it for more than plinking, IIRC the Ruger takes the largest charge next to a Walker. The instructions with mine says that it will take a full charge of 4F. Now I'm not recommending that but it shows how much confidence Ruger has in that pieces strength. You can always down load it with filler over the powder.

 

[rodwha]

I can stuff 45 grns of powder behind a RB w/o a wad, and that is full!

 

[don hepler]

One cure for that is to file down the top of the hammer and cut the notch deeper, however it's probably dead on at 75 yards.

 

[M. De Land]

I have read that the 1860's were designed purposely to shoot high for battle application so you could see the full size man target over the barrel.If you shoot at his crotch you will hit something vital above.
Mine shot very high as well and my fix was to heat up the barrel and remove the front sight and solder in a taller brass blade. It still shoots to the right a bit but the elevation is correct now for 25 yard six o'clock hold. I really don't like the notch sight in the hammer.
They weren't designed to be target pistols although they have the inherent accuracy if a rear adjustable sight is installed in a dove tail at the back of the barrel just ahead of the cylinder. MD

 

[nkbj]

Cabelas still doesn't have the Dance on sale.
:idunno:

 

[nilo52]

Since you don't shoot it and don't like it, you should probibly send that rotten old gun to me !
:rotf: nilo52

 

[M. De Land]

Yeah, I don't know what the steel in the ROA is but I bet it is the same as the center fire revolvers which is 4140 last I knew unless stainless and that would explain the strength.
I sure love mine and plan on keeping it.
They can really be given an excellent trigger break and pull weight. MD