longcruise
70 Cal.
I figgered that was it.
I first filed a small notch in the center of my sight, facing me, using a triangular file. Tried various colors of paint in the notch and it worked well in daylight. Found I lost my sight picture while hunting near dusk no matter what kind of paint. I just epoxied a 1.5mm fiber optic to the top of that large blade and it is working very well for me. The 1.5mm is about 1/2 the width of the blade. I will be posting about this soon so keep an eye out or you can PM me.I’m also open to front blade suggestions… I think a nickel or brass, with a thinner post would be nice…
Howdy all,
Been learning a lot here lately and mostly watching from the sidelines. I have been trying to track down a .54 Hawken, and after several months, finally landed a nice GPR
According to the date code, she’s a 1984. As far as I can tell she is in really nice shape and looks like she was mostly a safe queen… maybe never shot idk. I have taken it down and completely cleaned, oiled, function checked everything I can… fired a couple caps as well. Everything to me seems to be in working order… triggers work like they should, nipple and clean out screws both came out easily and I cleaned and added antisieze. Barrel is nice and shiney… first patch had a ever so slight orange twinge… I don’t see any pitting or surface rust… ran some fine steel wool up and down the barrel anyway, applied some pb blaster, and then cleaned it really well with hot water, then ballistol, and then applied some G96. Took trigger group and lock out… no rust anywhere… oiled them all up… measured and she’s a 1 in 48” twist. Barrel seems to be consistent pressure on patch whole way… used a .30 cal brush and cleaned patented breach.
So my question since this is my first used/older gun… is there anything I’m missing or anything I should check before taking her for a spin? I’ll be shooting PRBs with real BP. Just want to make sure I do the right thing before shooting… and yes, I added some finger nail polish to front blade… it’s a pretty big blade and slightly tough to see.
Here’s some pics… she is awful pretty IMO
Howdy all,
Been learning a lot here lately and mostly watching from the sidelines. I have been trying to track down a .54 Hawken, and after several months, finally landed a nice GPR
According to the date code, she’s a 1984. As far as I can tell she is in really nice shape and looks like she was mostly a safe queen… maybe never shot idk. I have taken it down and completely cleaned, oiled, function checked everything I can… fired a couple caps as well. Everything to me seems to be in working order… triggers work like they should, nipple and clean out screws both came out easily and I cleaned and added antisieze. Barrel is nice and shiney… first patch had a ever so slight orange twinge… I don’t see any pitting or surface rust… ran some fine steel wool up and down the barrel anyway, applied some pb blaster, and then cleaned it really well with hot water, then ballistol, and then applied some G96. Took trigger group and lock out… no rust anywhere… oiled them all up… measured and she’s a 1 in 48” twist. Barrel seems to be consistent pressure on patch whole way… used a .30 cal brush and cleaned patented breach.
So my question since this is my first used/older gun… is there anything I’m missing or anything I should check before taking her for a spin? I’ll be shooting PRBs with real BP. Just want to make sure I do the right thing before shooting… and yes, I added some finger nail polish to front blade… it’s a pretty big blade and slightly tough to see.
Congrats on your “new” GPR! She looks great. I’ve had mine since 1987 & would never part with it. One suggestion, the stock looks thirsty so I’d give a few hand rubbed applications of BLO or any stock finish of your chosing.
Here’s some pics… she is awful pretty IMO
Most Lyman/Investarms barrels of the past needed about 100 shots of PRB put through them before the bore smoothed out and gave the best accuracy. You can speed the process up with the use of polishing compounds such as JB's bore paste. You can also accomplish this polishing process by "fire lapping" where you coat a special lead conical with lapping compound, a mildly abrasive paste, and fire it out of your barrel.I picked up the exact rifle last Fall. Mid 1985 vintage according to Lyman and also a measured 1/48" twist. One doe already fell to a 54 PRB in January' BP season with it.
Though I have scoured the bore with Scotchbrite, lapping compound and elbow grease, it still shows shredded patches, sometimes, using 80 grains of FFFg. These GPR's are known for their sharp lands. Next outing I'll try FFg to see if there is any difference.
A former owner swapped out the factory sights for the Lyman Mzldr after markets, which I don't like. But, I am learning that the rear sight needs to sit tall or the front blade requires filed down to a nubbin. Once the sight trials are completed I look forward to more hunts with the long gun.
The Great Plains Rifle, GPR, had a 1-60 twist while the Great Plains Hunter, GPH, had a fast twist 1-32 rate of twist. The Lyman Trade Rifle had a shorter barrel, came in 50 or 54 caliber and had a 1-48. The GPH barrels were interchangeable with the GPR barrels.I think that is right. The GPHunters were all 1:48,:across all years. I don’t know if they made any fast twist sabot guns 1:22 or 1:28, almost seems like they did. I’ve been very confused for months at a time so I could have seen it in a vision..
Awesome I’ll be watching! Sounds like a great idea!I first filed a small notch in the center of my sight, facing me, using a triangular file. Tried various colors of paint in the notch and it worked well in daylight. Found I lost my sight picture while hunting near dusk no matter what kind of paint. I just epoxied a 1.5mm fiber optic to the top of that large blade and it is working very well for me. The 1.5mm is about 1/2 the width of the blade. I will be posting about this soon so keep an eye out or you can PM me.
Great action/flame shot!Well I took it out for the first time today and am quite happy with the results . Was a blast to shoot! Was shooting from a rest at 50 yards. First shot was maybe 1-2 inches low but pretty much dead center and I was pretty shocked but super happy! Had one shot fly maybe 4-5” high, but it’s possible it was me - this 4 shot group was pretty good for first time out. 2nd and 3rd shots were same hole. Shots 1-3 were 80 grains… 4th was 100 grains. Elevation seemed to be about the same but I want to test the 100 grains more. Lack of recoil was surprising… 100 grains in my lightweight deer stalker is not fun… the GPR was totally pleasant and super fun whole time!
Was a bit of a learning experience… I cleaned after third or fourth shot… and I should have cleaned it sooner, because my patched jag got stuck :-/ I tried to get it out but ended up having to trickle 10 or so grains in the nipple and shot it out. My mistake… I’ll be cleaning every 1-2 shots now. I’m wondering if the lands are a bit sharp as it got stuck at the very bottom… I could spin the rod, but no matter what I tried, I couldn’t get it out and had to twist off the jag. I may try some jb bore paste. But other then that, it worked perfect… no hang fires, ignition was 100% and it was loads of fun to shoot!
Only found 2 patches… how are they looking?
Couple pics - don’t mind unmentionable holes… my dad was out shooting with me.
First shot at 50 yards.
4 shot group
I use howard's butcher block on most of my wood items... knife handles, cutting boards etc... it's mineral oil and beeswax - I am pretty impressed with the condition of the stock for being almost 40!There is nothing wrong with 1:48 in a .54 caliber. Wipe that stock with lemon oil and beeswax at least twice a year.
Thank you for the feedback - appreciated! Question on lube - I have a pile of wonderlubed patches (those are the patches in pic) I like them and they seem like a good fit... (.015" with a .530 ball) is it ok/possible to mix lubes? For example, take one of the pre-lubed patches, and add a bit of mink oil etc as needed?If you are not wiping the bore between shots, the fouling will build up and the patches will get dirtier.
Since you have a Lyman Great Plains Rifle, it will have a chambered breech. While I like to wipe the bore between shots to control the fouling, that is not always the best with a chambered breech as the wiping can push fouling into the chambered breech and failure to fire will result. For many, it works well to use a good fouling softening lubrication for the patched ball. That way the fouling is pushed down the bore as the ball is loaded and the fouling is caught between the powder and the ball and is shot out. A fairly wet patch but not dripping is good for the range sessions where lots of shots are being fired. For hunting a greasier patch that won't dry out is best to use. Think Mink Oil from Track of the Wolf.
Your patches are looking good with only a little bit of abrasion coming from the lands. Smaller ball and thicker patch or a few more passes with the scotch brite pad should do the trick.
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