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Tickled with my new (old) GPR - anything I should check for before shooting?

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I picked up the exact rifle last Fall. Mid 1985 vintage according to Lyman and also a measured 1/48" twist. One doe already fell to a 54 PRB in January' BP season with it.
Though I have scoured the bore with Scotchbrite, lapping compound and elbow grease, it still shows shredded patches, sometimes, using 80 grains of FFFg. These GPR's are known for their sharp lands. Next outing I'll try FFg to see if there is any difference.
A former owner swapped out the factory sights for the Lyman Mzldr after markets, which I don't like. But, I am learning that the rear sight needs to sit tall or the front blade requires filed down to a nubbin. Once the sight trials are completed I look forward to more hunts with the long gun.
 
Before you change your foresight and if you are having difficulty seeing it , paint the face with some twink . I go the opposite way and blacken my foresight with smoke from burning camphor .
 
I prefer the Lee 300gr REAL bullet in my Lyman GP 54, 1/60 twist, for elk. . 100grs of 777, 2F. Will far out penetrate the RB. I'm 77 & 146 lbs & don't find the recoil to be a problem. Great accuracy. Just a thought if one of those tough angled shots is encountered . The rib cage is easy to penetrate , but an angled shot thru a shoulder requires a heavier slug. The insurance of the heavier bullet makes me more comfortable. I've seen a 54 RB flatten out , flattened like a dime , recovered from a deer.
 

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Ok excellent info… I actually just wrote before I saw this that I was open to front blade suggestions… I want to shoot first to see if full height or shorter is closer, but it is quite thick I agree… just a bastard file for thinning and lowering?
what should I watch for to know if I should attempt to recrown or smooth it? It does look a hair uneven… groups will do the talking?

You should be looking for the fired patches. I believe that you are already planning to recover the fired patches. Recovered patches tell a lot. Shredded patches indicate that the patches are too thin, or the lands are too sharp. Holes on the ball circumference or circular cuts indicate a sharp crown or slightly sharp lands. What patches, patch lubricant and ball diameter are you planning to use?
 
I prefer the Lee 300gr REAL bullet in my Lyman GP 54, 1/60 twist, for elk. . 100grs of 777, 2F. Will far out penetrate the RB. I'm 77 & 146 lbs & don't find the recoil to be a problem. Great accuracy. Just a thought if one of those tough angled shots is encountered . The rib cage is easy to penetrate , but an angled shot thru a shoulder requires a heavier slug. The insurance of the heavier bullet makes me more comfortable. I've seen a 54 RB flatten out , flattened like a dime , recovered from a deer.
you are a tough old bird lol. the REAL bullet is the best choice if you have a 1x48 twist. easy loading no patches
 
Well right now 5 lbs of 2f, 500 primers, and 200 balls… should keep me busy for a couple months ;-) any load recommendations? Figure start around 70 or 80ish grains? Elk, black bear, and multiple flavors of deer are on the menu…
For me that amount of ammo would last me about 3 days. Enjoy!!
 
You should be looking for the fired patches. I believe that you are already planning to recover the fired patches. Recovered patches tell a lot. Shredded patches indicate that the patches are too thin, or the lands are too sharp. Holes on the ball circumference or circular cuts indicate a sharp crown or slightly sharp lands. What patches, patch lubricant and ball diameter are you planning to use?
I've been using traditions wonderlube patches that are .015" thick with my other muzzleloader... I'll experiment, but they smell so yummy lol and do a good job with keeping things clean.
Thanks for the tip - I'll capture some patches and see.
 
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I had one in the early eighties and it was a 1:66 as well? This rifle looks like a present day one to me?
It's stamped "AM" and has a 6 digit serial that starts with 1. From my research rush puts it 1984? It's there anything else I should check?
 
As a gunsmith, you have gone above and beyond! I applaud you sir! If you treat your firearms this way, they will always serve you well. Congrats on your purchase, it sounds like you got a true gem!
Most GPR were a 1:66 twist if I remember correctly, sounds like you got one with a little faster twist. You may have better accuracy with Minie bullets, rather that round balls. I would definitely check out both!
Congratulations again! Nice job! Now go make some smoke!
Mike, aka BandAid
 
As a gunsmith, you have gone above and beyond! I applaud you sir! If you treat your firearms this way, they will always serve you well. Congrats on your purchase, it sounds like you got a true gem!
Most GPR were a 1:66 twist if I remember correctly, sounds like you got one with a little faster twist. You may have better accuracy with Minie bullets, rather that round balls. I would definitely check out both!
Congratulations again! Nice job! Now go make some smoke!
Mike, aka BandAid
Thanks for the kind words Mike! Maintenance is therapeutic to me... I try and do my part so my tools can do theirs when asked :)

I'll try both for sure!
 
I’m also open to front blade suggestions… I think a nickel or brass, with a thinner post would be nice…
I just ground the sides off the big 'bead' front sight. that left a narrow blade. I also replaced the adjustable rear with a 'Hawken sight' from TOW; (buckhorn) for aestthetic reasons. The one I got has an elevation ramp. Worked well.
 
It's stamped "AM" and has a 6 digit serial that starts with 1. From my research rush puts it 1984? It's there anything else I should check?
I can't tell you anything except I got it in the early eighties as I stated. The rifle was in the gun store five years prior and no one would buy it so I did. It must have been made in the late seventies? It was a very fine rifle.
How did you determine what twist you have?
 
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Howdy all,

Been learning a lot here lately and mostly watching from the sidelines. I have been trying to track down a .54 Hawken, and after several months, finally landed a nice GPR:)

According to the date code, she’s a 1984. As far as I can tell she is in really nice shape and looks like she was mostly a safe queen… maybe never shot idk. I have taken it down and completely cleaned, oiled, function checked everything I can… fired a couple caps as well. Everything to me seems to be in working order… triggers work like they should, nipple and clean out screws both came out easily and I cleaned and added antisieze. Barrel is nice and shiney… first patch had a ever so slight orange twinge… I don’t see any pitting or surface rust… ran some fine steel wool up and down the barrel anyway, applied some pb blaster, and then cleaned it really well with hot water, then ballistol, and then applied some G96. Took trigger group and lock out… no rust anywhere… oiled them all up… measured and she’s a 1 in 48” twist. Barrel seems to be consistent pressure on patch whole way… used a .30 cal brush and cleaned patented breach.

So my question since this is my first used/older gun… is there anything I’m missing or anything I should check before taking her for a spin? I’ll be shooting PRBs with real BP. Just want to make sure I do the right thing before shooting… and yes, I added some finger nail polish to front blade… it’s a pretty big blade and slightly tough to see.

Here’s some pics… she is awful pretty IMO :)

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Great find! Very nice! Good photos you posted.
 
When I got my GPR, I ran a tight patch up and down the bore with that grinding paste on it; just to take off a bit of the really sharp machining edges. That's just me, not saying anyone else should do!
Yea idk if mine is sharp or not, but I did steel wool and maybe 50 strokes
 

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