Crockett: Okay, the best source of information I know out there for a working bow and drill is John and Gerie McPherson's Primitive Wilderness Living & Survival Skills. Tom Browm's Field Guide To Wilderness Survival also has good material on Bow & drill.
I can offer additional tips, having taken Tom's Basic Survival and Tracking class.
The fireboard and spindle need to be made of dry wood. Willow, and popular( cottonwood, aspen) are among the species of trees most widely found throughout N. America that make good woods for this. DO NOT USE cord, string, rope, or thin leather thongs for the bow"string". Use a 3/8" or wider piece of leather, or several strings or ropes tied together, to increase the grip and friction between the bow string and the spindle.
You don't want a round, smooth surface on the outside of a spindle. Don't use a wooden dowel rod! You want lots of "facets" on the spindle. Facets replace "GEARS". A wide bowstring as I have recommended grabs those facets better than does a thin one. The whole point of using a bow to spin the spindle is to EFFICIENTLY transfer energy in a horizontal, back and forth movement, to a spinning vertical movement.
And old fashioned hand drill does this with two 45 degree angled gears, one on the hand crank, and the other on the drill shaft. You have to do this with what you make of the spindle. A square piece of wood will actually make a better spindle than a round dowel will. Think about it. :hmm:
Now, to get heat generated in the fireboard, you need a rough surface. Cut a hole in the fireboard with a knife, or sharp stone, and then cut a pie shaped wedge out of the hole to the side of the fireboard. This will catch the sawdust that will be the burning ember you use to start the fire.
Now, to increase the friction and get higher heat, Cut CROSSES in the nose of the spingle, with a knife or sharp rock. I like to cut the spindle nose into 8 sections with deep cuts. If you have ever owned a lemon juicer made of wood, you get the idea of what you want that nose of the spindle to look like. A fat spindle actually works better than a skinny one.
Now, use that knife or sharp stone to gouge pie shaped slices in the hole in the fireboard. The deeper the gouges the better.
Between the gouges in the hole, and the crosses on the nose of the spindle, you have plenty of friction, and edges to knock off bits of wood to create sawdust in that cut in the fireboard.
First, adjust your stance so that the spindle is truly vertical, and you are move the bow back and forth evenly and consistently. No jerks. No stops, No slips of the string on the spindle. If you hold the bow with the web of your hand, and your finger tips on the "string", you can use finger pressure to tighten the tension of the string on the spindle as it is turning, to take up any slack.
You will develop a fine touch for this skill with lots of practice( HINT! :shocked2: )
Only when you have good back and forth movement, and good spining of the spindle do you want to now increase the pressure on the top of the spindle with your palm board. Increase it slowly so you don't stop the spinning of the spindle. You want to time your hand squeezing the bowstring with the pressure on the palm board, so that you maintain the spinning, while increasing the pressure betwen the nose of the spindle and that hole in the fireboard. As the pressure increases, so will the temperuture generated as you knock off more and more sawdust. Stroke faster, and you will get smoke, and then embers in that wedge of sawdust.
Use your knife edge or sharp stone to remove the embers and place them in your nest of tinder. Now blow on the embers to transfer the heat to the tinder to start your fire. Hold the tinder above your eyes, and blow up into it. This keeps your eyebrows, and hair from adding to the fire, and also keeps smoke out of your mouth, and nose, and lungs. :barf: :shocked2:
There are other woods you can use for bow and drill fire starting. I have a set made of Yucca stalks, dried out. Its hard, but brittle wood, and grows in the American SW. But it works very well.
Most people make their equipment too short. The bow and fireboard need to be at least as long as the distance from your armpit to your wrist bone.
The spindle should be from 12-16 inches long, so that you can use a knee to brace your weak hand and the palm board it holds on top of the spindle.
The palmboard can be anything, even a rock with a void or "vug " in it, if it can fit over a tapered end of the spindle. Grease the hole in the palm board with grease from the sides of your nose, if you have nothing else. YOu don't need to be starting fires in BOTH the FIREBOARD and the PALM BOARD!!!
The fireboard should be as long as the bow, so that you can rest one foot on it, to hold it in place as you spin the spindle in the hole. You will make many fires. A longer fireboard will give you plenty of space to begin a new hole for future fires, before it has to be replaced.
many people have much more trouble finding tinder, and organizing their fire building efforts. But, I think that is beyond the point of discussion. If you have problems, feel free to send me a PT. I got very interested in primitive fire starting after taking Tom's class, and set out to find out all about handdrills, fireplows, firesaws, and other means of creating fire by friction. Then I polished up my skills with refraction, reflection, compression, and percussion. I still can't make consistent sparks smacking two rocks together, but I can do a flint and steel fire in my sleep. I am not yet convinced that compression and reflection techniques are truly ancient primitive ways of starting fires, but there is some archeological evidence to support that primitive peoples use polished stone lens to create fire(refraction). And I have not attempted to use the fireplow, or firesaw, yet. Both involve a lot of pressure with your shoulders, and my back is not strong enough to let me do that, yet.
I hope this helps.
You can go to
www.wildwoodSurvival.com to learn more about firemaking. :hatsoff: