Took my 54 to the range...

[dledinger]

That's great question!

I want to get away from shooting Pyrodex, as it does seem more corrossive than BP. But the biggest factor was experimenting with hopes to find one powder that would work well in the revolvers, my son's 50 cal, and in my .54 rifles. The Graf's was on sale so I bought a few pounds.

I have no heartburn having some extra powder around for the revolvers..it works great for them and in my sons 50 cal CVA.

 

[nymtber]

You could have split the order into 2f and 3f

Sounds like your in the same situation as I am. Pyrodex is EVERYWHERE. Real black powder is rarer than hens teeth! I have some Pyrodex P left over from a previously owned revolver, so I can shoot probably 100 balls before I need to buy anything. I got all winter to build my GPR, though!

I know of a guy that shoots mostly blackpowder. I am going to get into contact with him about where to buy or if he orders for folks (he has an FFL last I checked...) Or, if I could even get in on his order for a can or two of Goex...

 

[Little Wattsy]

You could have split the order into 2f and 3f

Sounds like your in the same situation as I am. Pyrodex is EVERYWHERE. Real black powder is rarer than hens teeth! I have some Pyrodex P left over from a previously owned revolver, so I can shoot probably 100 balls before I need to buy anything. I got all winter to build my GPR, though!

I know of a guy that shoots mostly blackpowder. I am going to get into contact with him about where to buy or if he orders for folks (he has an FFL last I checked...) Or, if I could even get in on his order for a can or two of Goex...

Personally when I factor cost and convenience I am a fan of Pyrodex BUT... Its easy enough to order "real black". I bought 25 lbs of KIK and had it shiped to the house; easy peasy. The hazmat tax makes it less cost effective the fewer cans you buy at a time...

 

[eaglesnester]

U mentioned that pyrodex shot well in your smokepole. U might like to know that pyrodex will make perclorates in your bore and this substance will start rusting out your bore almost immediately as it binds up with the steel. If you must use pyrodex or trip 7 clean your shooter extra carefull after shooting and clean it immediately after shooting. Use the same materials for cleaning that U would use for black powder. It also might be a good idea to check your bore for 3 days in a row after shooting by patching out with olive oil to check for rust.

 

[Zonie]

Pyrodex does not "make perchlorate".

The Potassium Perchlorate used in it and Triple 7 as the oxidizer that provides the oxygen to support the combustion of the other ingredients.

Other things in Pyrodex are Potassium Nitrate, Charcoal, graphite and sulfur.

All black powder and synthetic black powders like Pyrodex create salts (fouling) that can absorb moisture from the air and create corrosive materials that will attack steel.

In a letter to me, Hodgdon maintained that the corrosive produced by Pyrodex is no worse for the barrel than the fouling created by shooting real black powder.
They did emphasize the need to thoroughly clean the bore with lots of water after shooting.

 

[dledinger]

Pyro sure seems more corrosive to me.

 

[Little Wattsy]

Pyro sure seems more corrosive to me.

It started due to cost and convenience and continues due to less residue and higher effeciency (its sold by the pound yet loaded by volume, you get more loads from a lb of Pyro then 'real black') then "real black" but I have used Pyrodex for 6 years now and my guns bores are shinny bright... ZERO complaints.

 

[dledinger]

I definitely got less fouling with the pyro. I'm with you on that one!

 

[slumlord44]

Been using Pyrodex and Triple 7 for years. Always found it to be less corosive thatn black powder. Certainly not more corosive.

 

[Grenadier1758]

It is more that the fouling is different using Pyrodex than black powder. As long as it is cleaned and lubricated, the bore should be clean and shiney. Just don't leave your gun uncleaned after shooting the synthetics thinking you won't have corrosion. You will see the effects of synthetic powder fouling.

 

[Zonie]

You make a good point.

Over the years, several of the synthetic powder companies have (mistakenly) advertized that their powder fouling is not corrosive.

Unfortunately, not only is this untrue, it gets people to thinking that they don't have to clean their guns after shooting them.

All it takes is a week (or less) in a humid environment and the fouling left by all muzzleloading powder will cause the bore to rust.

 

Ok I didn't read each and every reply, probably my bad.
A friend 30 yr ago had the .54 Hawkens. His manual recommended 110 gr FFG as the max.
So here's something you might consider.
It's possible two sister rifles off the assembly to shoot differently.
A 1:48 twist is generally a compromise twist to allow shooting RB or Cone.
Normally in a .50 or larger you want FFG not FFFg.
The finer the grain the faster it will ignite and burn. Normally developing the pressure too quick and then falling off. This could cause your issue.
I would do two things.
1. see if you can fit an adjustable site first.
Easier to adjust you POA than filing.
2. Start over from scratch with just RB and one type of patch only.
Use only FFG BP. Work your load up till it starts throwing out of line. Mark this down.
Now get some good quality real bullets (no sabots)
Start over and compare your accuracy.
You may find this gun wants a conical at higher loads.
You may also find it prefers one cap over another.
You may want to try the #11M magnum for a little hotter ignition.
But do start over and make ONLY one change at a time. And then start from the low end and work up again.

 

[William O.]

I agree, for the most part. My 54 caliber rifles prefered 2f hands down over 3f. That includes both the slow twist barrel (1:66) and well as the 1:48. However, the 1:48 twist rate barrels where always a little more accurate than the "slow twist/round ball" barrels when shooing lead balls. The longer barreled, slower twist rate GPR groups lead conicals fairly nicely, which the shorter TR barrel and it's 1:48 not as well. Neither was terrible at shooting either projectile but the 1:48 is just outstanding when launching RB. Also, when working up the optimum powder charge in your rifle, do not adjust the sights or change the patch thickness or type of lube.

 

[rescuemike]

Love reading through these threads! I have learned more here than in any book I could buy! Thanks to a fantastic group of people here!

 

[sawandhammer]

hey rescue mike,
i can't agree more. this post as taken on a life of its own. i opened up my new .50cal deerstalker today. so the decision has already been made. but, still fun to read and learn. my only problem is i can't seem to get the damn pin in to hold the barrel. spoke to "joe" at lyman, he suggested loosening the screw a little to allow the barrel to seat further down. i still can't get it in properly. i'll get him on the phone in the morning..... i just want to shoot it... a nice looking little gun.

 

[Walks with fire]

I just bought one in .54 and haven't shot it yet either. Look in your book that came with it and there are instructions on how to get the wedge pin to fit. You might have to file a little bit but the book will show you.

 

[sawandhammer]

well, this is my first muzzleloader. so i don't want to mess anything up. i'll see what lyman says in the morning. for some reason the pin goes in easier from the left side rather than the right side that the book tells you to put it in from... i don't know. just the beginning of a new quest.

 

[dledinger]

I had heck of a time fitting the wedge on my wife's deerstalker, but after following the instructions it fits perfectly. Just dont force it in, and do a little filing at a time.

 

[sawandhammer]

dledinger,
so you filed a little at a time, until it fit. did you file the tops or the bottoms. did you file both entrance and exit side?