Traditions Kentucky Flintlock help

[Ryanlpuckett]

Hey guys, I hope that all is well with each and everyone this Sunday afternoon.

Yesterday I took my new build, a traditions Kentucky Flintlock rifle to the range. Surprisingly the counter guy allowed me entry with my smoke shop , but in all seriousness, I loaded her up, 45 grains pyrodex ffg, a pillow tac patch. 015, with a 45cal Hornaday round ball. My hands were so shake, luckily I did not spill all of the bb's lol . She was pressed with a short starter,, then sent home with the rod. I applied a little fffg to the pan, closed the frizen and took aim. Trigger pulled, sizzle and smoke, no bang, boom or a little pew. So I tapped the barrel turned her on her side to drop a little powder to the flash hole, cleaned the hole with my little retractable cleaner pic, applied more powder to the pan and! Sizzle my skilet, no bang... I inspected the area around the flash hole and it was obvious what had occurred, when I browned the barrel i dumped a ton of oil, WD-40, to be exact to ward off any possibility of eternal corrosion. Seemingly somewhere in all the excitement, I forgot to clean her out. Big fat huge sigh. But here is something that I discovered along the way. I noticed that the ramrod was cut to march the barrel length pretty much exactly, but now with a round in the barrel, new measurements are reflecting that the ball is just a round 2" above the flash hole. What gives? With powder and ball with patch, I would not have expected more than maybe half an inch. Why did the ball stop so short of the flash hole? Thats a pretty sizeable gap.. can you guys explain this to me? I do believe that the ball is seated fully. I also noted that when I inserted the rod prior to sending the ball home, that I could never see the rod through the flash hole. I have applied a bore light and could see illumination thought the Barrel, so there is definitely an opening but its seems that the flash hole is its own chamber of sorts. Or do you think that the ball is not fully seated. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, any tips to clean this thing lol I mean if there are in fact two chambrs, how is this done? And how do I get my ball off that 5 story roof or out of a 33 1/2" barrel.

Thank you guys in advance

Best as always

Ryan

 

[SmokepoleSam]

The ball alone is .440 or .445 inch in diameter then there is the powder charge. How much space does your powder take up? My brass adjustable powder measure is .434 inside diameter and the depth is 1.235. The two measurements added together are 1.669". Traditions/CVA, T/C and other guns have a version of the patent breech which Is a smaller sub chamber in the breech end of the barrel so you won't see the ramrod. Welcome to the club and keep asking questions and we will try to answer them.

 

[Phil Coffins]

If your ram rod doesn’t have pin threw the brass tip to hold it to the wood DON’T try to use it to pull the ball!

 

[Mgbruch]

Pyrodex does not work in flintlocks. It requires more heat than black powder in the pan gives.

 

[Leadball loader]

Hey guys, I hope that all is well with each and everyone this Sunday afternoon.

Yesterday I took my new build, a traditions Kentucky Flintlock rifle to the range. Surprisingly the counter guy allowed me entry with my smoke shop , but in all seriousness, I loaded her up, 45 grains pyrodex ffg, a pillow tac patch. 015, with a 45cal Hornaday round ball. My hands were so shake, luckily I did not spill all of the bb's lol . She was pressed with a short starter,, then sent home with the rod. I applied a little fffg to the pan, closed the frizen and took aim. Trigger pulled, sizzle and smoke, no bang, boom or a little pew. So I tapped the barrel turned her on her side to drop a little powder to the flash hole, cleaned the hole with my little retractable cleaner pic, applied more powder to the pan and! Sizzle my skilet, no bang... I inspected the area around the flash hole and it was obvious what had occurred, when I browned the barrel i dumped a ton of oil, WD-40, to be exact to ward off any possibility of eternal corrosion. Seemingly somewhere in all the excitement, I forgot to clean her out. Big fat huge sigh. But here is something that I discovered along the way. I noticed that the ramrod was cut to march the barrel length pretty much exactly, but now with a round in the barrel, new measurements are reflecting that the ball is just a round 2" above the flash hole. What gives? With powder and ball with patch, I would not have expected more than maybe half an inch. Why did the ball stop so short of the flash hole? Thats a pretty sizeable gap.. can you guys explain this to me? I do believe that the ball is seated fully. I also noted that when I inserted the rod prior to sending the ball home, that I could never see the rod through the flash hole. I have applied a bore light and could see illumination thought the Barrel, so there is definitely an opening but its seems that the flash hole is its own chamber of sorts. Or do you think that the ball is not fully seated. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Oh, any tips to clean this thing lol I mean if there are in fact two chambrs, how is this done? And how do I get my ball off that 5 story roof or out of a 33 1/2" barrel.

Thank you guys in advance

Best as always

Ryan

The Traditions Kentucky has a chambered breech plug that is smaller diameter than the bore so the powder is in the chamber and the patch and ball stop at the chamber mouth.
You may be able to take out the vent liner and get some of the wet powder out to allow you to trickle some fresh powder through the replaced liner to shoot the ball out.
The vent liner is a long tube threaded only into the breech plug chamber not to the barrel wall.
I have a Traditions Kentucky and have enlarged my vent hole and coned the out side of the vent liner to speed ignition. I prick the vent every shot.
Good luck with your problem!!
LBL

 

[Leadball loader]

Use real Black powder when shooting this gun.
You still might get the Pyrex to go if you can get black in the vent tube and where you removed pyrodex in the chamber.
LBL

 

[B P Maniac Shooter]

Yes, I agree with the others here. I suggest finding some real black powder and give away the pyrodex.
This is how pyrodex works in flint guns:

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

The ball alone is .440 or .445 inch in diameter then there is the powder charge. How much space does your powder take up? My brass adjustable powder measure is .434 inside diameter and the depth is 1.235. The two measurements added together are 1.669". Traditions/CVA, T/C and other guns have a version of the patent breech which Is a smaller sub chamber in the breech end of the barrel so you won't see the ramrod. Welcome to the club and keep asking questions and we will try to answer them.

Thank you for this, much appreciated... I found that the ball is 1.5 inches from the flash hole. So sounds like what you are describing as the patented breech. How does one clean the flash chamber, as I dont see a way to pass a swab though the barrel.

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

If your ram rod doesn’t have pin threw the brass tip to hold it to the wood DON’T try to use it to pull the ball!

Thank you, the information is much appreciated, unfortunately, my ramrod is pinned.

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Pyrodex does not work in flintlocks. It requires more heat than black powder in the pan gives.

Thats what I am discovering, seen a few articles and tutorials on YouTube. Shipping on powder is going to bite

Thank you for the info

Best

Ryan

 

[Kansas Jake]

I would use a vent pick or even a straight piece of wire or paper clip to force as much of your 4f black powder into that chambered breech, prime the pan and try to shoot the ball out. It may only go poof but may be enough to get the charge and ball out. It also may be enough to set off the pyrodex so make sure the gun is pointed in a safe direction

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Yes, I agree with the others here. I suggest finding some real black powder and give away the pyrodex.
This is how pyrodex works in flint guns:

Good evening, and thank you for this information! Yeah, I think I am going to order some black powder, just not looking forward to Shipping . Maybe order enough to make it worth while. Do you recommend 2 or 3f? Kinda hoping to use the same for both the main charge and pan.

Best

Ryan

 

[Kansas Jake]

3f will work for pretty much anything. I occasionally use 2f in calibers over .50 but many folks just use 3f.

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

I would use a vent pick or even a straight piece of wire or paper clip to force as much of your 4f black powder into that chambered breech, prime the pan and try to shoot the ball out. It may only go poof but may be enough to get the charge and ball out. It also may be enough to set off the pyrodex so make sure the gun is pointed in a safe direction

Hey good evening, and thank you for this. I tried this at the range, several times, unfortunately to no avail. I ordered a puller and the appropriate rod, should all be here by Thursday, pull the ball, clean and dry it out and hopefully will be back at the range Friday. Thats the plan at least lol.

Thank you again

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

3f will work for pretty much anything. I occasionally use 2f in calibers over .50 but many folks just use 3f.

Very good to know, I will try and get some by weeks end.

Best

Ryan

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Use real Black powder when shooting this gun.
You still might get the Pyrex to go if you can get black in the vent tube and where you removed pyrodex in the chamber.
LBL

I am going to try and order some black powder and be back at the range by the weekend.

Best

Ryan

 

[Old Grunt]

Graf's and son has free shipping and hazmat,I believe you have to order over $150.00 for free shipping,I also think it ends tomorrow, might be worth checking into.

 

[Rodd Boyer]

Thank you for this, much appreciated... I found that the ball is 1.5 inches from the flash hole. So sounds like what you are describing as the patented breech. How does one clean the flash chamber, as I dont see a way to pass a swab though the barrel.

Best

Ryan

Get a .38 cal brush or even a .32, wrap cleaning patch around it and send it down. Give it a couple turns clockwise and pull it out. Repeat as necessary until patch is clean.

I use fffg in all my flintlock rifles from .36 to 54 and use it to prime the pan.

Good luck, shoot straight and God bless,
Rodd

 

[Leadball loader]

Thank you for this, much appreciated... I found that the ball is 1.5 inches from the flash hole. So sounds like what you are describing as the patented breech. How does one clean the flash chamber, as I dont see a way to pass a swab though the barrel.

Best

Ryan

When I clean my traditions Kentucky I use a long strip of cloth through a slotted cleaning rod end twisted together ahead of the rod saturated with water. Push down the bore to the breech with the lock facing newspaper on the floor I repeat til the water comes out the vent clear then repeat with dry strips wipe the lock with wet cloth and dry with hair dryer til breech is warm and I use fluid film lanolin to protect the metal. it does not wet powder charges if not completely wiped out before you load. I always swab the barrel breech with a dry strip patch before loading.
LBL

 

[Ryanlpuckett]

Get a .38 cal brush or even a .32, wrap cleaning patch around it and send it down. Give it a couple turns clockwise and pull it out. Repeat as necessary until patch is clean.

I use fffg in all my flintlock rifles from .36 to 54 and use it to prime the pan.

Good luck, shoot straight and God bless,
Rodd

Thank you, I will use this technique once I get the ball pulled. Just waiting for the rod and puller to come in the mail thank you again!

Best

Ryan