Tried and True Danish Oil versus Boiled Linseed Oil finish--question on application

[The Appalachian]

Hi,
Perhaps before making such statements you might actually read the whole thread. I posted photos on page 1 and always post photos particularly when discussing finishes. I reckon you owe me an apology. And you have the nerve to complain about taking advice from some "anonymous" person when my name is in plain view. Where are your pictures of your work and why do you remain anonymous?

dave

Hit a nerve must be.

Ive read the thread, and my only apology will be forgetting your pictures on page one, my bad. Must be they/you didn't stand out enough.

You took your shot at me first "dave", whoever you are. Don't be mad because somebody returned fire. just sayin'.

 

[dave_person]

Hi @dave_person , is your favorite Sutherland wells tung oil finish the most water resistant you've found?

I'm trying to figure out what is most authentic looking, reasonable difficulty level of application for a beginner, and most water resistant.

Hi,
Polymerized tung oil is a good choice because it is more weather resistant than linseed oil derivatives and does not darken with age. It also dries much faster than unpolymerized oils. It is also easy to apply but don't try to rub it in by hand. Like Tried and True finishes, apply with a rag or brush, let sit for 15 minutes and then wipe off any excess oil thoroughly. Apply coats until you achieve the sheen you desire.

dave

 

[dave_person]

Hit a nerve must be.

Ive read the thread, and my only apology will be forgetting your pictures on page one, my bad. Must be they/you didn't stand out enough.

You took your shot at me first "dave", whoever you are. Don't be mad because somebody returned fire. just sayin'.

Hi,
Lets us see pictures of your work. Come on.

dave

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Lets us see pictures of your work. Come on.

dave

Crickets...crickets...crickets.

dave

 

[user 34300]

 

[The Appalachian]

So, pictures are the measure of one's legitimacy on this forum.

Ok....

Having been out of traditional muzzleloaders for the past 30 years I have none of finished work, but I'm back into it, and currently building a Tennessee percussion as I've posted elsewhere.

I do have lots of pictures of what this forum doesn't allow posted, mostly walnut Marlin's I've rebuilt or refinished, not to mention scratch built synthetic stocks for long range centerfire rifles. That's been the bulk of my past 3 decades.

the Tennessee in progress

 

[The Appalachian]

"dave"....do you build knives? Or leather work?

 

[The Appalachian]

"dave"...do you build tomahawks?

 

[The Appalachian]

I've been checkering gun stocks since I could tie my own shoes.

You? "dave"?

 

[The Appalachian]

Recently started dabbling in horn making. This is my first one. Everybody says it's fantastic craftsmanship. I'm humbled.

You, do any powderhorns, "dave"?

 

[The Appalachian]

Oh, my, how could I forget this.

Solid ebony inletted into walnut......

 

[The Appalachian]

Crickets...crickets...crickets.

dave

Have a good evening "dave".......

 

[Brazos John]

Wow.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Well, I have to say that Appalachian Hunter has established his bonafides!

 

[1950DAVE]

As they say around here, "he ain't no slouch"

 

[The Crisco Kid]

As far as being waterproof, none of these finishes or how they are applied are truly waterproof. As evidence I will give the following true story. My cohort and I developed a method of vacuum and pressure treating gunstocks 25 or so years ago. I worked for a city water system at the time and had access to scraps of heavy plastic water line as well as a good connection with salesmen who gave me good prices on things. We built a setup with 6" pipe and "hell for stout" fittings that would allow us to submerge a stock into a pipe full of polyurethane finish. We rigged the system up so that we could pull a vacuum from my '89 Ford on the pipe full of poly with the stock submerged in it. As I recall, we left it under vacuum over night and then relieved the vacuum following up with 50 or 60 psi air pressure for another day or so. The result was that we could shoot 2-3 oz of finish into the stock. This was established by before and after weighing on a good scale. There is no way you're going to get that much finish into a stock by rubbing it on. The proof was in a trip we took down the Kobuk river north of the Arctic Circle in Alaska. 14 days on the river and it poured down rain for 12 of them. It was a real survival trip that I won't go into now other than to say that my partner's stock that had been treated didn't swell a bit while mine that had been given the usual treatment with "deep penetrating" finish swelled up about 1/16" all around the buttplate. We gave it up because the polyurethane we used reacted with the air and turned to jelly after two or three stocks. At 5 gallons a pipeful it got too expensive.

 

[HighUintas]

Well that's a pretty cool idea. Isn't that similar to how laminate stocks are stabilized currently, only with a different sealant?

 

[HighUintas]

Nice e work everyone!

@Scota@4570 those are some nice haldatocks. Is the one with a closeup of the patchbox an Ohio? I love that patchbox

 

[frankie]

Hi,
Perhaps before making such statements you might actually read the whole thread. I posted photos on page 1 and always post photos particularly when discussing finishes. I reckon you owe me an apology. And you have the nerve to complain about taking advice from some "anonymous" person when my name is in plain view. Where are your pictures of your work and why do you remain anonymous?

dave

You do awesome work Dave, maybe there are people like me cant get enough pictures of your work.

 

[frankie]

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fabulous