• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Trigger parts don't add up

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Don't cut off the tab on the triggerguard...you need it to pin it to the stock.

Things get close with this type of guard. Find where the screw comes out the bottom of the stock (locate where the trigger needs to be first). HOPEFULLY, you can put the screw behind the triggerguard lug, and in front of the trigger. Some lock/barrel/triggerguard combinations make this difficult. After finding the location for the screw, trigger, and triggerguard, then make the triggerplate to fit and clear everything else.

Of course, you could do without a triggerplate entirely...

Fowlinggunweb1.jpg
 
-----when and where did someone come up with the idea of putting the trigger into a plate ??-----
 
Put a nut in the bottom of the stock. On this gun it is covered by the triggerguard so you can't see it.

I would not suggest doing this if you're making a gun that "should" have a triggerplate. But this type of thing was done on different kinds of guns (not usually "longrifles").
 
Just a thought for anyone who decided to drill their trigger pin hole directly in the stock.

IMO, be sure to drill all the way thru the wood on the far side.

If you drill a pin hole that doesn't break thru the far side creating a 'blind hole', and then you pin your trigger in place you will not be able to remove the pin should you ever want to remove the trigger. :cursing:
 
That was done on some New England guns.

Massh.jpg


I can't get the trigger out of this gun!
 
Stophel: Are you suggesting that we should all drill blind holes and do other poor designs because it is Historically Correct?

Am I to believe that no New England gunsmith had enough brains to plan ahead so that his guns could be repaired?

If one wishes to make sure the trigger pin couldn't work itself out of the 'knock out hole' all they have to do is to drill all the way thru with a 1/16 inch bit and then drill from the lock side using a 5/64 dia drill part way through.
Using a 5/64 diameter pin there is no way it could fall out but if it ever had to be removed a 1/16 dia pin would knock it out.
 
Heavens no, I think it's terrible!

I have been told that this was, however, somewhat commonly seen on New England guns (to just what extent, I don't know). Apparently, the trigger was fitted with a pin that was long enough to grab onto with pliers (but not so long as to interfere with the lock), then when done, the pin was cut to length, and driven all the way in. WHY on earth anyone would do so is beyond me, and if someone REALLY wanted to do a recreation of a particular gun and have it "right", then, by all means, do so. I am not recommending it....Even I, stickler for such things in the interest of historical accuracy, would not do it.

I was just posting an example of the practice. :wink: I have not heard of this being done anywhere else, and when I came across this example, I was surprised by it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top