Wad Lube Recipe

[Boom Stick]

Looking for recipe(s) for lubing wads for my .36 and .44 caliber revolvers. Any help / suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[TDM]

I’d suggest trying the search function on that, probably a couple of dozen or more good recipes.

 

[Bad Karma]

I am using a pound of original recipe SPG modified with 2 ounces of Stihl HP Synthetic lube and a quarter cup of coconut oil. I then add a bit of beeswax or more coconut oil as needed for the seasonal temperatures. This stuff works great for revolvers, patch lubes, wads, and grease grooved bullets.

 

[TDM]

I’d recommend 3 ozs of Stihl in that recipe @Bad Karma.

 

[Bad Karma]

I’d recommend 3 ozs of Stihl in that recipe @Bad Karma.

Waaaay too slippery! You’ll have velocities in the smokeless powder range if you aren’t careful!

 

[TDM]

Waaaay too slippery! You’ll have velocities in the smokeless powder range if you aren’t careful!

I was just messing with you. You know how these lube threads go. Yep, velocity would be off the chart.

 

[Ed C.]

1:1 beeswax/olive oil works good in hot climates. You can increase the olive oil proportion in cooler temps.

 

[William P Sepessy]

As mentioned the seasonal temperature can dictate your mix ratio. Where I live(N.E. US) there are four distinct seasons and what works in the heat of summer may not work in colder temperatures. So if you live in that type of climate you may have two different recipes. Just start experimenting and see what works for you as asking for lube concoctions will elicit a avalanche of suggestions.

 

[Boom Stick]

Currently in Texas, El Paso specifically so basically two seasons .... hot as hell and cold.

As for a wad lube and 'components', I currently have 5lbs of beeswax, olive oil, and about 10lbs of Mutton Tallow in the freezer. I gathered all that up to make up some patch lube for my plains rifle. Was wondering if this mix of components would work for the wads as well. Not sure of the mix for each component but I would assume that for a percussion revolver you would want the wads to be thicker / stiffer so that the wads are not too wet / damp / mushy to help prevent the powder from becoming contaminated.

Was considering something like 1:1:1 of Olive oil, Beeswax, and Mutton Tallow. Or maybe a 1:2:1 combination? I never done this before and when I tried doing a search on the site yesterday the results kept coming up with recipes for patch lube.

 

[Pete453]

Boom Stick,
It's not that big of a deal, try not to overthink it. You don't need or want to get scientific with this as waxes have different hardnesses, as does each batch of tallow. They're natural ingredients, after all, you'll need to tweak each batch.
You're on the right track, you want it as stiff as possible so as not to contaminate the powder, check. I've never used mutton tallow so can't speak to that. I use deer tallow, it's stiff, almost waxy. I mix equalish parts of wax and tallow in a double boiler, by eye. Take a teaspoon of the mix and pour it on wax paper, let cool. You want it stiff, but not so stiff it breaks. You can adjust your ratio to make it softer or harder to suit. If necessary, use just a splash of olive oil to soften the mix (make pliable), too much oil can seperate, contaminating the powder. That's all there is to it, have fun in the kitchen!
This is my 1960 after 24 full loads with my mix. I get nearly the same in my Remington revolving carbine.

 

[TDM]

Currently in Texas, El Paso specifically so basically two seasons .... hot as hell and cold.

As for a wad lube and 'components', I currently have 5lbs of beeswax, olive oil, and about 10lbs of Mutton Tallow in the freezer. I gathered all that up to make up some patch lube for my plains rifle. Was wondering if this mix of components would work for the wads as well. Not sure of the mix for each component but I would assume that for a percussion revolver you would want the wads to be thicker / stiffer so that the wads are not too wet / damp / mushy to help prevent the powder from becoming contaminated.

Was considering something like 1:1:1 of Olive oil, Beeswax, and Mutton Tallow. Or maybe a 1:2:1 combination? I never done this before and when I tried doing a search on the site yesterday the results kept coming up with recipes for patch lube.

In all seriousness, I suggest following @Ed C. ’s recipe. It’s pretty much the same as what I make. Adjust your oil up or down to suit the temperature.

 

[Stantheman86]

I use whatever the Eastern Maine Shooting Supply guy uses on the wool wads I buy from him for $50 per 1000......I don't know what it is but it keeps my guns shooting and makes my hands smell like an old book store

 

[Bad Karma]

I was just messing with you. You know how these lube threads go. Yep, velocity would be off the chart.

I figured as much… ;-) Lube recipes are just like cleaning solutions, motor oil, political discussions and religious arguments… every one of us, once we’ve been at it for a while has what we reckon is a pretty fine bead on the subject and the rest of you fellas are just misguided! ;-)

Lube is critical to bullet shooters. I’m sure it is for patched ball too but I haven’t shot as much of it. I’ve got a few rifles that seem to prefer spit and do very well with that “lube”

 

[TDM]

I figured as much… ;-)

Lube is critical to bullet shooters. I’m sure it is for patched ball too but I haven’t shot as much of it. I’ve got a few rifles that seem to prefer spit and do very well with that “lube”

It is important, no doubt about that.

 

[Pete453]

makes my hands smell like an old book store

That might be kinda cool, I love books!

 

[Stantheman86]

That might be kinda cool, I love books!

The first time I used them, i was driving home and I'm like, why does my car smell like an old book shop......between the wads in my bag sitting on my passenger seat and my hands, I'm like oh there it is

The secret lube is probably stored in the back room of an old dusty gun shop

 

[Dave Markowitz]

For target shooting or plinking when the gun will not remain loaded for an extended time, I have had great luck lubing my wads with straight, 100% pure neatsfoot oil. I don't know if neatsfoot oil will contaminate powder if loaded for a long time.

I just put the wads in a tin, pour in the N.O. and let them soak it up. When I remove the wads I squeeze out the excess and put them in another tin. Easy peasy.

 

[Pete453]

Dave,
I was using neatsfoot oil and beeswax for a while, but it would make the bullets lubed with it oxidize pretty badly after sitting for a few months. Also attacked the tin of lubed wads. Otherwise, it was a pretty good lube

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Interesting. What is your tin made from?

I just checked a tin that has contained N.O. lubed wads for at least a year and it looks fine. My tin is made from stainless steel.

Also, FWIW, I use Fiebing's 100% pure neatsfoot oil.

 

[Pete453]

I used altoid tins and a round tin from the muzzleloading shop. The oil was 100% pure, from the horse tack part of the farm store.
I don't know why it was doing it, probably acids in the oil, but I have a better lube now and everything is fine, I haven't looked back.