WD-40 Test

[Hatchet-Jack]

I'm originally from Utah. My dad used WD-40 like it was going out of style in the 70's. I used it to lubricate my rifles growing up whenever I was out of Hoppe's 9 Gun Oil. I never had any gunk build up etc. I moved to Kentucky in 1998. I oiled my grandfather's 1920's 30-30 Winchester and left it in my gun safe. Several months later I took it out of the safe. The WD-40 turned into a thick dark brown almost black goo substance. It completely jammed up the action. I had to strip it with solvent (several times) to remove the gunk. Utah is a very dry climate where Kentucky is very humid. I can only guess that the humidity was what caused it to gunk up. I can't be sure about humidity being the cause but I'll never use it on my guns again.

 

[SPQR70AD]

That's why I love this forum, people always cracking jokes like WD-40 and Bore Butter.

my friend worked in a naval yard on dry docked ships. they had a nuclear powered aircraft carrier to work on and he sprayed WD 40 on the props and propeller shafts to clean the rust. when the ship went out to sea the WD 40 gummed up the props and the AC stopped moving. had to be towed back to the harbor

 

[Zonie]

Cheez, I use it from a spray can and have no problem it's like water?

I used a WD-40 spray can for this test when I first started it.
You are right. When it is first sprayed, it is like water but, after 5 days, the solvents in it had evaporated leaving some oil that was similar to w30 weight motor oil.
After sitting inside my house for over a year, this 30 weight oil had further thickened to the honey-like fluid it has now become.

The results seem to support those who say, "Do NOT use WD-40 to lubricate your gun". Guns don't work well when some honey like lube is in their moving parts.

More importantly I think is, people often spray their tumbler locks on their house or in padlock's to lubricate them. Those little tumbler pins, powered by tiny springs that make most key locks work, will stop working if they are coated with something as thick as honey.

 

[firestick]

WD-40 is ok for guns if you use them often IMO. Needs a thorough cleaning once in awhile or the WD turns to a hard varnish and esp in the nocks and crannies after a long period of time. 3in1 oil has done the same thing in my experience. works great to get rid of water. Ok as a temporary light lube and temporary light rust preventative. I went to non aerosol Ballistol for use in all my weapons. I even use it on my longbow to clean and protect it. Use it on leather as well. Started using it as a cutting oil when mixed well with water for drilling metals. A big reason I turned to it completely is it is not carcinogenic. Been cancer free for 2 years now. Not too fond of the spray stuff but I can see it could have uses.

 

[Carbon 6]

I've come to the conclusion that WD-40 is still in business because some people think it's great.
I also know that since WD-40 was invented hundreds of other products have come onto the market presumably because people think it isn't all that great.

Give me a can and I'll use it, but not on my guns, unless I have no other option.

 

[hunter thompson]

I wouldnt mess with success of natural products and bore butter from 74 handed down tradition..From gun builders,,gun builders that built locks..Dont trust nothing but proven stuff ..even before bore butter..i have a can of bees wax /lanoline and bear grease from the 60s.my dad had ,,the can its in is a antique..ALL i use is hot soapy water and wait until the barrel is cool then use the moose milk and bore butter.I know and dont care if you use AXLE GREASE not for e to decide..i report you decide

 

[Howard Pippin]

I sorta think this threads been beat to death, but I for one still use WD-40 for some things. About 15 years ago a locksmith told my brother that WD-40 was the best friend they had, so I wouldn't use it there.

 

[Bighorserider]

When I first got into horses one of the first things I learned was anytime someone said you must always do something someone else would say you must never do the same thing. It's kind of the same way with BP guns and especially lubes and cleaning.

 

[oldwood]

I know everyone knows this , BUT , here goes. Never use silicone products into any m/l or modern rifled bores. Years ago a friend of mine , US Army sniper , did a stint of sniping in that nasty Asian war. He got back to Germany to finish up and was put in charge of caring for the sniper rifle armory , on base. He was given a large quantity of a lubricant product called "LPS".. The "S" in the label stood for Silicone. He tried it in the bore , wetting the bore liberally and let the lube dry over night , then to the range.. His rifle normally was good enough to 900+ yards , but w/the silicone in the bore , was not on the paper @ even short distances until the silicone burned out from shooting the rifle numerous times. SO , might not be good to not use silicone products in m/l bore. ....oldwood

 

[mooman76]

Never heard that.

 

[oldwood]

Moonman........There's more to the story... Since our sniper was also a sick jokester , and it was his job to keep his fellow sniper's rifles in top shape , he dutifully put LPS silicon in their barrels , too. Then to the range the next day. He said his buddies had a bird until he told them what he had done. Until the silicon burnt out of the barrels , no accuracy. Who knew???? Again , I want my first shot from my m/l rifles to be where i aim it , and not have to spend several shots until all settles down,.......oldwood

 

[SPQR70AD]

I sorta think this threads been beat to death, but I for one still use WD-40 for some things. About 15 years ago a locksmith told my brother that WD-40 was the best friend they had, so I wouldn't use it there.

yea and barrel makers say JB paste is a barrel makers best friend yet JB is used millions of times without any harm

 

[dlidster]

. . . lubricant product called "LPS".. The "S" in the label stood for Silicone . . .

There is no silicone in the LPS products. LPS stood for "Lubricates, Penetrates, Stops Rust when the line first came on the market." There are three LPS products; LPS 1, LPS 2, and LPS 3. LPS 1 is a moisture displacer like WD-40. LPS 2 adds rust prevention to the moisture displacement. LPS 3 leaves a waxy film that prevents rust for two years in the worst environments.

I have a very complete woodworking shop with three table saws, a band saw, lathe, drill press, vertical belt sander, and jointer. That's a lot of cast iron. I also have more that a dozen gray iron planes and more chisels and gouges than I can count. My shop is so humid the floor sweats in the summer. I've used LPS 3 to protect all this iron and steel for more than 50 years. I don't have rust.

I use LPS 3 on the outer surfaces of all my guns. I don't get it into the lockwork and never into the barrels. It protects them beautifully. But I depend on it only for its intended purpose -- to prevent rust.

https://www.generaltoolworldwide.co...ich-is-the-right-one-for-your-specific-needs/