WD-40 Test

[renegadehunter]

Part of my summer storage method for my snowmobiles is to spray the exhaust pipes with WD40. I do so to keep them from rusting if any rain gets through the cover and leaks through one of the hood screens. I started doing this after a couple of seasons when I noticed some rust forming on the pipes where the paint had cooked off. I chose WD40 at the time simply because I had some and it is convenient to spray and reach all areas of the pipes. I would have to remove the pipes if I were to have to apply something to a cloth and rub it on. It seems to work pretty well, as I have seen no further rusting since I started applying it. I spray quite a bit on them so that it'll leach down the sides and cover as much of the pipes as possible.
I'm not promoting WD as a good rust preventative, but it keeps water from sitting on the pipes for any length of time when some gets through. I've never noticed it seeming to be sticky or tacky after sitting all summer, in fact the pipes have a shiny/wet type appearance and look like the WD is still wet on them after storage. The sleds are stored outside with a water resistant cover over them. This year when I get the sleds out I'll be sure to see if the pipes have any kind of a tacky feel to them. Perhaps it is different when a thinner coat is applied to something vs. a bunch in a container?
I will say that by comparison to Josie wales's post about FF "driving the country girls crazy", when the pipes heat up on the first ride and start to cook off the WD it is definitely not going to attract you any ladies...

 

[Erwan]

I'm not promoting WD as a good rust preventative, but it keeps water from sitting on the pipes for any length of time when some gets through

This is normal in the sens that the WD40 has been developed for that: spray Atlas missile fuselages to flush out water and condensation, but it was not developed like rust préventive. The WD40 passes under water and moisture and protects the sprayed parts...

WD40 means "Water Displacement, 40th formula" and Norman Larsen gave himself this name à this product (in something like 1950)...

 

[ugly old guy]

Stock snomobiles or modified?
I'm going to guess modified since on every factory stock snowmobile I am aware of, the exhause is not visible unless the hood is raised.

(also, if the exhaust is such that rain has access to it, so does snow during operation/when riding or when parked.)

 

[renegadehunter]

The exhaust pipes are under the hood, but the hood has mesh hood screen openings for air flow/cooling. Rain will drip through these screens and sit on the pipes during storage. When riding the mesh is small enough that snow just sits on the screens and won't go through. If any melts or comes through, while in operation the pipes are hot and the water evaporates right away.

 

[GregLaRoche]

WD40 is a good all round product that can work for a lot jobs, but it’s not the best for any of them. Except maybe keeping moisture off of Atlas rockets. There are a ton of products designed for specific jobs and do better than an all round one.

If you want to get a rusted bolt loose, get a penetrating oil type. If you want to keep something from rusting, get something formulated for that. Graphite for locks. Etc.

A cheap close second to WD40 is paint thinner with 20% motor oil added to it in a spray bottle. It will do almost all WD40 will.

 

[MrMackc]

Maybe WD-40 Is not the very best for a specific job but it is really close to being the best for MANY jobs that you don't have a basket full of special products at hand, Some time it may usually the best product you have around for getting the job done. I have used it to dry out some expensive electronic parts, it does leave a small residue than can be wiped off with everclear grain alcohol,

Restore old ignition distributors and to de-rust parts on old cars I have restored like a 1928 Chevrolet, a couple of 1951 Chevrolet cars, Used it to restore a couple of Imported semi-automatic shotguns, used it to unlock engines that have not been turned over for 60 or 70 years. It isn't as good as PB Blaster on rusted up bolts, but it will do the job and don't smell as bad as PB Blaster.

I have even used it as starting fluid on engines and outboard motors rather than using the ether based stuff. It don't work as well as Hoppe's #9 on cleaning a bore, but it will get the job done If you left your gun cleaning stuff at the house
It will also work to soften up on old stiff tanned belts, holsters,even harness leather.

And if the Air Force used it by the gallon to keep Atlas Missiles rust and corrosion free, that says a lot for the product.

So if you don't happen to have a dozen or so special products in your kit or tool box, carry some WD-40 in a dual squirt aerosol can.

 

[Carbon 6]

And if the Air Force used it by the gallon to keep Atlas Missiles rust and corrosion free, that says a lot for the product.

It doesn't say "Jack Squat " to me. The second the Air force and Navy tried Fluid -Film they immediately ordered the use of WD-40 cease.

 

[MrMackc]

To each his own . . . .

 

[Carbon 6]

To each his own . . . .

If the military can ditch WD-40 for Fliud film, That says a lot for both products.

In 1994 the Naval Surface Warfare Center, Port Hueneme Division, conducted tests to find a replacement for Class One Ozone Depleting Substances. As a result of the testing conducted by the Naval Aviation Depot in Pensacola, Florida, FLUID FILM was tested against existing MIL-SPECS, MIL-C-16173 and MIL-C-81309 . The results are as follows:”All missile processing facilities are hereby authorized to procure and begin implementing of these products into their missile processing flow. FLUID FILM is the only corrosion preventative compound authorized for use on STANDARD missile.”

WD-40 does not meet military specifications at this time.

Here's a 72 hour astm B117 test of some popular "protectants"


After 52 days, Fluid Film had reached a corrosion percentage of only 5%.

Product 1 Week 2 Weeks 3 Weeks
Fluid Film AS 0% surface corrosion 1% surface corrosion 1% surface corrosion
CRC 3-36 90% surface corrosion 95% surface corrosion 100% surface corrosion
WD-40 40% surface corrosion 55% surface corrosion 85% surface corrosion
Corrosion X 50% surface corrosion 95% surface corrosion 100% surface corrosion
LPS-3 5% surface corrosion 10% surface corrosion 40% surface corrosion

But, to each their own, nothing is fool proof.

 

[GregLaRoche]

Great video.

 

[Zonie]

Since I first started this back around 13 months ago I had almost forgotten it but today someone mentioned WD-40 and it jogged a cog in my head.
With the cog fully functioning I looked around and found the percussion cap lid with the WD-40 sitting on a shelf where I left it.

I originally said the WD-40 had changed into something like 30 weight motor oil. Well, today, I find that it has changed into something else.

The best description I can give it now is, it has thickened to something about as fluid as honey. For you old guys, it is very close to the "Motor Honey" or STP you used to put in your old Pinto or Vega to stop the knocking sounds.

Although it probably wouldn't have much effect on the tumbler in a sidelock, it certainly could mess up how well a fly in the tumbler would work.

My suggestion? Don't spray any of your guns with WD-40 if there are any moving parts in the area. This stuff can gum up the works.

 

[Mulebrain]

Long time match shooter only use WD40. I have tried many others from olive oil to ballistol. Hands down WD40 performs better for bore preservation than anything else I have seen. My friend only reinforced this, as a long time competition shooter, it's all he uses. He has over 50 years on the competition black powder, and record holder. It has been demonized by shooters for sooooooo long, and I really don't know why.

I did my own test with ballistol, and cleaned and treated over five rifles with it after cleaning. After a month they all had rust developing in the bores. I had to clean them out.

 

[azmntman]

I have never sprayed it on moving parts, just coated the interior bore and the exterior barrel myself. Just cleaned 4 guns this weekend and used on all (baricade was left home in another box and was at sons helping him clean a new gun). For the lock I have always used 3-1 myself (ducking)...........

Thanks for the update though Zonie

 

[Howard Pippin]

Long time match shooter only use WD40. I have tried many others from olive oil to ballistol. Hands down WD40 performs better for bore preservation than anything else I have seen. My friend only reinforced this, as a long time competition shooter, it's all he uses. He has over 50 years on the competition black powder, and record holder. It has been demonized by shooters for sooooooo long, and I really don't know why.

I did my own test with ballistol, and cleaned and treated over five rifles with it after cleaning. After a month they all had rust developing in the bores. I had to clean them out.

I'm sure I mention this may-be on a different thread back some time ago, but during the 70s and 80s, a friend and I conducted a Junior rifle club sponsored by the NRA through the DCM. We had eight or nine rifles that were furnished by the DCM and we got our supplies through there, and we generally operated under an NRA guidelines. The shooting range was in the basement of an old building that was often damp, and we had problems with keeping the rifles stored from rusting even though they were not blued, but Parkerized. When WD-40 first came out, somewhere I think in the mid-70s,One of the claims was it rejected moisture, so I purchased a can and went down and literally soaked all of these rifles. The humidity must've been 90% all the time. We generally shut our course down from 1 May to 1 October. About 1 September I went down to check again on the rifles, and I about had a heart attack as they had turned pure white. Taken a rag and starting to wpe on it, and it all came right off, the stocks just shined and the barrels and actions were really in good shape. The nominal temperature in this basement was probably 70°. I can definitely state it did what it was supposed to for that six-month period for us, and we continued to use it in that vein until we had to close the club for lack of Finances. It seemed that the high humidity settled on the WD-40, but that was all.
Squint

 

[hunter thompson]

i cure the barrel ,,same as you do with a cast iron frying pan using natural products,,Bore butter..it works,,,i use it after the barrel is cool from hot soap water.WORKS for long term storage.

 

[Carbon 6]

That's why I love this forum, people always cracking jokes like WD-40 and Bore Butter.

 

[Sam squanch]

Went to buy a used rifle one time, Thompson center 50 caliber. Owner was so proud of the shape he kept it in. Not a scratch or blemish on the outside. “ I clean it with Thompson center no. 13 and bore butter! “ he exclaimed. I ran a patch down the barrel.......and..... CRUSTY RED RUST!! The look on his face was worth the 75 mile drive. Then I noticed the jars of pyrodex....

 

[BallBoy]

Completely off-topic. If you ever spilled gas on your hands? Ya I know that never happens. Before you wash them off. Spray WD40 on a rag used to wipe them off or directly on your Hands then wipe them off. Then wash them off and the smell of gasoline will be gone!

 

[jager43478]

Since I first started this back around 13 months ago I had almost forgotten it but today someone mentioned WD-40 and it jogged a cog in my head.
With the cog fully functioning I looked around and found the percussion cap lid with the WD-40 sitting on a shelf where I left it.

I originally said the WD-40 had changed into something like 30 weight motor oil. Well, today, I find that it has changed into something else.

The best description I can give it now is, it has thickened to something about as fluid as honey. For you old guys, it is very close to the "Motor Honey" or STP you used to put in your old Pinto or Vega to stop the knocking sounds.

Although it probably wouldn't have much effect on the tumbler in a sidelock, it certainly could mess up how well a fly in the tumbler would work.

My suggestion? Don't spray any of your guns with WD-40 if there are any moving parts in the area. This stuff can gum up the works.

Cheez, I use it from a spray can and have no problem it's like water?

 

[Okie Hog]

WD-40 hit the market in the 1960s.

After cleaning my guns the bore is swabbed with a patch wet with WD40. If the rifle is to be used in the next month or two it is put away. Stored rifles have their bores swabbed with a patch wetted with Militec1.