• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Went back to water - cleaning woes and foes

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I think it's just the bottle.. nice spray bottle.

I think I'll just refill it you know.
 

Attachments

  • 17273457848228009961655420568153.jpg
    17273457848228009961655420568153.jpg
    51.1 KB · Views: 0
For quite a while I've been avoiding straight water cleaning of my ML's including shotguns, rifles and handguns. I've used an electronic spray cleaner through the nipple hole and some concoction, usually windex w/o ammonia, alcohol, murphy's oil soap and some slight variations. I know there's some water in each of these ingredients which is what I mean by avoiding "straight water". Cleaning with this mix takes between 8 and 12 patches to get some semblance of clean - or still mostly white patches. That's not including an oiled patch afterwards. This worked fine for years. I think I got the idea from Dutch's method and just stuck to it.

Due to circumstances on some travel adventures, I did not have or could not get all ingredients for cleaning mixture. So, I went back to boiled water pumped up and down through the barrel with the nipples in the water and a patch on a jag in the muzzle. First, I just started doing the shotguns. Then I cleaned some of the rifles this way too. Today I did some shooting and cleaned some rifles and shotguns. One patch pumping the boiling water. One dry patch up and down. One with 91% alcohol as a drying agent and to evaporate remaining moisture. One patch with oil. Just 4 patches total, the 3rd in sequence coming out clean (mostly white).

I haven't seen any rust or issues since I switched back to boiling water. For my guns that have a fixed barrel, one that cannot be easily removed, I am inclined to continue cleaning with the "concoction" because I don't want water all in the stock, and I can control the cleaning mix on the patches better. But other than those few, I think I'm sticking to the water for ease and efficiency. If its clean, lubed and rust free I don't care how it got there.
I’ve been introduced to using windshield washer fluid. Followed by dry patches to dry the barrel out. Then a coat of oil, Ballistol etc for storage
 
Just wondering if moonshine was used for gun cleaning in the 19th century,,,,🤔
after it was filtered by the kidneys.
because i am a person of fatal inquisitive nature, I have tried most of the above methods.
because i am a person of fatal laziness i have settled on this method.
a coffee can full of windex. a hole in the lid. a tube through the hole in the lid.
a magnet with a slip male fitting on the back. tube from the coffee can attached to the magnet.
because 99.9% of the time i shoot flint locks, the lock removed from the stock and the magnet attached to the barrel centered over the vent.
on the business end of the barrel i use a 2.5x2.5 inch patch that goes on an jag that is attached to a stainless range rod.
after two strokes the pump action fills the barrel with windex. I then pump 3 times and after the third pump, i withdraw the rod and discard the black patch and apply another patch. three strokes and remove that gray patch and apply a new patch. three more strokes and withdraw the white patch.
detach the magnet from the vent and wipe the fouling from around the vent.
then i put the supply tube in a quart of 99% alcohol. apply a new patch and pump the bore full of alcohol. remove the magnet dohicky from the vent and use a new patch saturated with ballistol, and swab the bore with that.
i use a spray bottle of windex to clean the lock. the fouling in the pan and on the frizzen stem just dissolves and is washed a way. spray the lock with alcohol and wait until its dry. dribble a few drops of ballistol on the moving parts and reassemble. just my current method.
Boy! wish they would pay me by the word!!
 
Back
Top