What’s a “ball block” for?

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I guess I'm the odd one out again. Leaving aside that there is no evidence of their use during my chosen time period, 1750's to 1790, and acknowledging that (like short/ball starters) they were used by some shooters post 1800. I found the ones I tried to be a pain to use. Very awkward to hold atop the muzzle and push a ball through and into the bore, even with a short ball starter. I even countersunk the side of the board that would go against the muzzle around each hole to help hold it in the right place. Not worth the trouble.

I am using .445, .595, .600, and .610 balls. I can see how our late friend Brown Bear found a board easier than fumbling in cold weather with tiny .32 caliber balls, with cold hands.
 
If they are allowed, they are surely helpful at a competition. I keep mine in rows of five. Most competitions are based upon 5-10 shots so it makes it easy to keep track of shots fired. Anything to confuse my poor old mind Less is good.
 
If you are competing in a shooting competition even modern 22 competitors use something to arrange their ammo by 5’s or10’s. And a ball board, like a homemade pine tool box, looks better with a traditional muzzle loader than plastic tubes and hi vis yellow tool boxes. I’m not arguing historical accuracy here, just the aesthetics of guys who shoot on a line.
 
I have used them many years, for hunting. For me they provide the fastest means for a follow-up shot if needed. As others have mentioned, allowing the patched ball to protrude from the block enables speed and ease of location. I like a 5 shot, tear drop shaped hardwood block. With practice, a follow-up is possible in 15-20 seconds with my flintlocks.
 
I have one for my non-hc TC Hawken. It does help for a quick reload while hunting. I can say that from personal experience. I spined a doe. She dropped like a rock but lay there with her head up. The loading block helped me put her out of her misery very quickly.

As others have stated, simply push the patched ball through the block so it sticks through about 1/8", and it will self-align with the bore. That makes loading the ball the easiest part of the loading process.

Since all three of my sidelocks are percussion, I guess the loading blocks are not too far from period correct. I'm sure it's closer than the coil spring lock on the "Hawken" I load with it, lol!
 
I don't think they go back to the 18th century, but they do at least go back this far.

View attachment 36056

They are handy for a relatively quick reload, and I don't fault anyone for using one (I do sometimes, myself). I just don't like when people say "they MUST have had them in the 18th century, therefore, they're authentic".
Thats’ my cousin Lem, pic was taken north of Poo-Poo Crossing Minnesota in 1983.....in deer season, July......
 
I guess I'm the odd one out again. Leaving aside that there is no evidence of their use during my chosen time period, 1750's to 1790, and acknowledging that (like short/ball starters) they were used by some shooters post 1800. I found the ones I tried to be a pain to use. Very awkward to hold atop the muzzle and push a ball through and into the bore, even with a short ball starter. I even countersunk the side of the board that would go against the muzzle around each hole to help hold it in the right place. Not worth the trouble.

I am using .445, .595, .600, and .610 balls. I can see how our late friend Brown Bear found a board easier than fumbling in cold weather with tiny .32 caliber balls, with cold hands.
Not odd. We don’t know when they were invented and can’t show them before about middle nineteenth century. The fact that they are not recorded may be because they weren’t there. We have enough reports of loading sans loading blocks from the eighteenth century to know that was done.
I don’t get my breechclot in a wad over them in an eighteenth century setting because proof of them just suddenly shows up in the form of photos with out written accounts of how to use. So I have to wonder how long they existed before anyone thought to snap a photo of it.
 
Not odd. We don’t know when they were invented and can’t show them before about middle nineteenth century. The fact that they are not recorded may be because they weren’t there. We have enough reports of loading sans loading blocks from the eighteenth century to know that was done.
I don’t get my breechclot in a wad over them in an eighteenth century setting because proof of them just suddenly shows up in the form of photos with out written accounts of how to use. So I have to wonder how long they existed before anyone thought to snap a photo of it.

It seems illogical to me to think that a ball board wasn't invented before 1830, especially when the metallic cartridge was invented in 1808 and and apostles in the 16th century.

What is interesting though is how the ones we have today look exactly like those of the 19th century. I would have thought for sure someone would have made them out of plastic by now.
 
Here is a photo of my ball block in profile:
4CA6126F-F8A6-4EE4-A5E9-6D8C18333956.jpeg

You can see how the patched round balls protrude outwards. This allows easy and quick centering atop the muzzle. My rifle is coned and this combination makes for a rapid reload in the field. This ball block is closely modeled after an original from the 1860s-1870s.
 
It seems illogical to me to think that a ball board wasn't invented before 1830, especially when the metallic cartridge was invented in 1808 and and apostles in the 16th century.

What is interesting though is how the ones we have today look exactly like those of the 19th century. I would have thought for sure someone would have made them out of plastic by now.
Don’t give any one bad ideas. We have had plastic patches, sabots, some years ago....shudder.
 
Don’t give any one bad ideas. We have had plastic patches, sabots, some years ago....shudder.

Well it only falls to reason, they also made plastic flasks, measures, cappers and nipple wrenches.
It's like a Tobe Hopper film. Horror!
 
I’ve seen these around but can’t figure out what the benefit is in using one? Or maybe a better question is why would you use one? Is it for ease of use at the range or do guys actually carry one around when they are hunting? Probably elementary to most but it’s got me scratching my head...
I use it at the range, while hunting, and when reenacting...,

At the range and when hunting it saves me time as the patches are precut and around the ball. Even when not using a coned barrel, it's much quicker to pop the round out of the board and hold it at the muzzle to ram it down, than fishing out even pre-cut patches, then the ball, and doing the same.

When reenacting at an historic site, they are an excellent way to show folks what I mean when I say that riflemen used a "patched ball" to make the ball fit the bore, and to give it spin as I can show the patch around the ball as it rests within the board. They are also excellent for me to show the onlookers that although it's a very simple idea, a wooden board with some proper sized holes, that apparently it was not done back during the F&I or AWI. So although I am using it as a teaching aid at the site..., back in history we have nothing showing they used them during the AWI. Yet one day perhaps, a source or two might be discovered that shows either why they were not, or that they were, but were so common that nobody mentions them in records, and because they were wood, none of those from that time period have survived intact.... ;)

LD
 
The problem that I see is lubing the patch before dropping the ball. As the ball is held in by pressure on the patch, you would think the patch wouldn't be as absorbent.
 
The problem that I see is lubing the patch before dropping the ball. As the ball is held in by pressure on the patch, you would think the patch wouldn't be as absorbent.


Dry patching is the way to go.

With dry patching, the lube is not soaked into the wood nor does it evaporate.

Board can be loaded at the first of season and it's good for all the season.
 
Dry patching is the way to go.

With dry patching, the lube is not soaked into the wood nor does it evaporate.

Board can be loaded at the first of season and it's good for all the season.
Makes sense, I sorta thought a dry patch would burn through and destroy accuracy though.
 
Some folks use patches lubed with Ballistol and some liquids which makes a dry lubed patch. Maybe someone here will post what they are.

I use Teflon patches.
 
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