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What inletting chisels do I need, and where is the cheapest/ best place to

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Deerstalker

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Hey, folks! Newbie builder here. What inletting chisels and gouges should I start out with, and where is the best place to buy them? I bought some cheap ones, have been working on sharpening them without a lot of success, and I think I may have to spend more money to get what I need. The rifle I'm working on has the barrel inlet and ramrod hole drilled, but I have to do the rest. I looked at some chisels at woodcraft, and also the set on TOTW, but I would like to hear from you guys. Which chisels do I need to start out, and where would you buy them?
Thanks,
Bryan :hmm:
 
Woodworkers Supply has a large selection of chisels, gouges and so forth for carving and inletting. Their quality is excellent and their prices are fair.
 
First off don't go too cheap, you'll regret it and it will probably sour you on carving. Start with a small set from one of the two places listed. They will give you a good start, and as your skill builds, you can add more as needed. They come in long handle, and palm handle. Pick what you think you will be most comfortable with. If we pulled a survey, you would get half for or against one or the other. Both have advantages, and disadvantages. I use both. While we're on the subject of cutting tools, get good files, not that cheap Chinese manure like harbor freight sells. Nicholson brand is not very expensive, and again you don't need many to start with. Also get a good sharpening stone, as you will be constantly honeing the edge of the tool. Again, please don't go cheap, go small and add to your collection as needed. That's my two cent's anyway Bill
 
ayup, what Bill said... you will need (probably) more than one good stone- i have several, collected over the years. get the biggest stones you can (it's a guy thing, after all- cheap joke, but i couldn't resist), and a good oil. i use mineral oil (baby oil) cut with a bit of rubbing alcohol to get it to the right viscosity... try different stuff and see what works for you. then, get some good chisels but first, check out Wallace Gusslers video on stock carving. i rented mine from[url] technicalvideorentals.com[/url], but i'm given to understand that you can purchase it from[url] americanpioneer.com[/url]. keeping the edges sharp is the 'trick,' if you call it a trick. get a good piece of stropping leather from Tandy or somesuch, or a cobbler if you can find one, or a belt maker. You might also want to look at Beginning Carving by Jack Brooks (ToW has it) but i liked Gusslers video better. filch a bit of firewood from the woodpile and practice before you cut into a stock or, better yet, get a fe board feet of maple from the local yard.
(i know, not everyone has a 'local' yard- if you don't, try woodworkers' supply and get a hunk of maple to play with.)

keep the chisels sharp enough to shave hair. no kidding... have bald forearms! revel in your bald forearms! (then have really nice carving)

good luck

MSW
 
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Don't buy short stones. It takes a long even stroke to put a even edge on tools, even chisels. At Freindship, Roger Needham is always set up near the main gate, with a table full of good stones for very reasonable prices. The black arkansas stone has been mined out, but he has a few small stones left, and has long stones made from quarried stone that is grey green in color, or even redish, that are about same fine grit size. A good 10-12 inch stone will serve you well the rest of your life. And it will cost you less than $30.00. While you are at it, you may want to buy another long stone in medium, or " washita" grade, to help you sharpen really dull tools.

I don't recommend using any oils on stone, as they make the steel slip over the stone, rather than allow it to be cut by the stone. Makes more work in sharpening tools. I use Liquid Wrench, or any other of the kerosene based fluids sold to help you break loose a stuck screw, such as " Break Free". I use this over oil because the oxydizers in the Liquid Wrench help break the hold on the bits of steel that clog the surface of the stone, so they can float up in the liquid and be wiped off. If your stone gets clogged with steel bits, the edge will slide off the stone, and the stone cannot cut it.

If you have never been trained in sharpening knives, or chisel, you always push the blade into the stone, as if you are trying to slice off a thin layer of the stone, to sharpen the edge. Then you must use a strop, made of leather or some very tough fiber, to remove the burr, or feather than is formed on the edge as a result of the sharpening process. Strop is done with a back stroke.

DON"T use a circular motion to sharpen tools, This tends to wear the center of the stone down into a dish shape, and you will soon not be able to get an even, and straight edge on any edge, and will either have to have the stone re- ground, or get a new one. Take long strokes from one corner to the opposite corner at the other end of the stone, Count strokes, Turn the stone around and use the other corners, all to keep the stone as flat as possible over the years.

I use a leather belt looped over a door knob to strop my edges; other glue a strip of leather to a flat piece of lumber, and use that to strop their tools. The smaller strop is adequate for short edges. I started using a belt for a strop when I was making knives 46 years ago, and I can use the belt to strop my chisels when needed, too.

Finally, I must recommend you buy a copy of the Razor Edge Book of Sharpening. It is the best book on the subject still around, and will save you hours of frustration in your work by helping you keep all your chisels and carving tools, knives, axes, etc. with razor sharp edges. The Razor Edge Company, in Eli, Minn. sells jigs to hold blades and chisels at defined degrees of angle for sharpening, and may be worth having if you are doing a lot of workworking with chisels. Cutting across the grain requires a very sharp edge. Knowing how to keep your tools sharp takes most of the work out of the work!
 
I get most of my tools from Brownells[url] http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/catsearch.aspx?k=chisels&ps=10&si=True[/url]


Good luck

Tinker2
 
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Bryan, as a newbie myself I have found (as I'm sure others have) that if you buy cheap tools you end up buying them and good ones shortly thereafter. As long as your not concerned about a period correct look you can find some chisels at Sears, Lowes, home depot, ect. Smaller chisels and gouges you will have to go to Woodcrafter or Woodworker suppley something of that sort. I have a close friend working with me and have found that some tools he likes, I don't and vice-versa. It's sort of a trial and error thing. Once you get around to starting from a blank, you'll also want to get some good heavy files and a sure-form wood rasp. Again you can find most of these at your local hardware store. Another thing I've been finding quite handy is a set of needle files. Nicholson makes good files. Be patient, buy one or two tools at a time. I almost bought a set of palm chisels and gouges once thinking I'd save in the long run and then after carefully looking at the set I found that there were only 2 or 3 out of the set that I'd be using. Oh yeah I also picked up a set of wood scrapers and a burnishing tool as well. Good luck have fun and remember there is always a home equity loan. :grin: :grin:
 
There is "plenty" of black Arkansas left. plus we still have that nice grayish white Translucent Arkansas and our "soft" is what our competition calls "hard".
We are currently opening up a new quarry in the hot springs area and it looks very promissing.
The problem is the cost is so high. Paying a livable wage and benifits is driving the high price.
I use a piece of black arkansas and "extra fine India" combination stone we made for the government 20 yrs ago and it still works great.
 
That is nice to hear. Roger told me last year he would not be able to get any more " Black Arkansas" stone because it had been quarried out, and other than what he had on hand, the black was gone. What he had was perfectly fine for sharpening, but the colors were not black. I will speak to him about your good news when I see him in June. I have been buying stones from him for 40 years. Thanks again for the good news.
 
We don't sell direct to consumers, just throught distributers, But all of the wood working outfits carry our products. If you call and ask for black Norton Hard Arkansas.
Don't let them tell you there isn't any.
We are putting an 11-1/2 by 2-1/2 x 1/2 inch piece in our IM313 tri-stone now. we also sell a 8 x 3 x 1/2 piece in a plastic re-usable box
Of course the price will take your breath away.
I hope I didn't cross any lines here.
I just love the stuff, starting cutting it in 77 and have been doing it for almost 30 years
 
hi there.
I am on my third and final set of chisels after having two cheap sets that did not hold a edge real well. The best chisels I have found was (flexcut palm chisels). They come form the factory razor sharp and if you buy a set they also give you a bunch of bandaids for "when" you cut yourself. they have a lot of difference sizes and shapes. Here is a link to the place where i get my chisels. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=1994
 
but if you build guns you still need to sharpen your tools.
i was looking at a book and the quote that struck me was don't let your inletting look like " angry beaver" did it... :redface:
 
Deerstalker said:
Hey, folks! Newbie builder here. What inletting chisels and gouges should I start out with, and where is the best place to buy them?
Bryan :hmm:

Well my dos centavos is that most of the new stuff ain't worth a good spit. There are a lot of good older chisels and gouges out there. Makers like T H Witherby, James Swan, Buck Bros, P.S. & W, even some of the older hardware brands like Union Hardware, Sampson and Greenlee are good. For gouges, Buck Bros are the most commonly found, although if you can find them in reasonable shape, W Butcher (or W S Butcher) are good tools as well.

Tony (who thinks he knows a thing or 3 about chisels!)
 
I been buyng Pfeils and if they come any sharper the edge would have to have one side.
 
I took my stock and some pictures of the type of carving I wanted to do into WoodCraft and talked with one of the professional carvers who works there. He helped me pick out some Swiss made Pfeil gouges etc., riffler files, cabinet rasps and files and furniture scrapers. I then took a Saturday am class from him on how to hand sharpen with progressively finer abrassive papers and water and then onto a stone up to 12000 and then a strop. It makes all the difference in the world. Get a pro to teach you and watch you and give you feedback. Practice, practice, practice!!
 
I get mine at yard sales. They made good chisels long ago. Gouges are more rare.
 
You guys trying ta tell me that set of 53 chisels for $5.99 from Harbor Freight isn't the best darn deal this side of the Mississippi?
They even got's Split Bamboo handles on um.*
Almost like havin ah Split Bamboo fishin rodd. :grin:


* Wal, thay wurn't split 'til Ah pushhed on um but they is now! :rotf: :grin:
 
Well I broke down and purchased a set of chisels. Not sure if its the right set but heck it's more than I had before. It is from Grizzly industrial or[url] grizzly.com[/url]. It is the 12-pc deluxe carving chisel set. Says 59c rockwell harness. Cost me $29.95 for set of 12. Is that any good? Part #H7756.

:hmm:

h7756_det1.jpg
 
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I like the hardness.
Rockwell C 59 would be about right for a fully hardened and lightly tempered steel.
I think it should hold an edge but not be so brittle that it is dangerous to use.

Now, where did that hunk of Bamboo go? It was right here on the chisel before I tapped it with my hand. :confused:
 
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