Idaho Ron
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What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?
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Griz44Mag
70 Cal.
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I believe that is a disk from a farmers implement. We had disks like on a tandem Krause twin beam assembly that we used for cutting the top growth of a fallow field to start getting it ready for planting.
They are very hard steel.
My wife also. But decades ago I cooked professionally and it was busy. All our cuts then were from hurry and stupidity. Like trying to catch something sharp that you dropped.
Popular wisdom blamed cuts on dull knives. No it was hurry and stupidity.
Idaho Ron
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You are correct. That is a disc blade. 21" in diameter.
I got several dozen in the scrap metal pile, gonna make one this week. Have some in AR500 steel but like the idea of old disk blades.
Griz44Mag
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The one issue you have with curved discs for targets is the splatter or ricochets going up and out of the park if you hit the disc on the top curve.
Every range I have been to outlawed them because of that. A properly hung steel is on a 5-8% forward tilt so the bullet deflections are downward and into the ground.
This link has an excellent tutorial on the safe way to mount targets.
Picked up my 700 #11 caps, 3 lb of Triple 7 2fg, and 300 .495 lead balls. Inventory is looking pretty good for awhile.
gundoc2000
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made my first batch of homemade black powder yesterday. So far I am pretty happy with the results
gundoc
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finished the cva mountain rifle salvage. fired it for function. didn't blow up in my face so guess i did ok.
worked on my TC flint lock lock. frizzen spring is weak and so is the spark. put shim under the foot and tripled the spark. weirdest part is it won't ignite 4f but will ignite 3f every time.
today was the first day off the O2 line! no more dragging the O2 line around behind me! to celebrate i ordered a .45 barrel. have 50's and 54's coming out my ears, but no .45's. had to rectify that!
worked on my TC flint lock lock. frizzen spring is weak and so is the spark. put shim under the foot and tripled the spark. weirdest part is it won't ignite 4f but will ignite 3f every time.
today was the first day off the O2 line! no more dragging the O2 line around behind me! to celebrate i ordered a .45 barrel. have 50's and 54's coming out my ears, but no .45's. had to rectify that!
Preliminary discussions with another member here on a pair of buckskin pants.... 
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oh my! such an opening RR! but i will refrain.Preliminary discussions with another member here on a pair of buckskin pants....
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Just finished antiquing the hardware on a 1795 musket reproduction.
Griz44Mag
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PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I put together the rifle I made from he precarve from hell stock, strangely the lock that fit perfectly in the white a year ago would no longer go in the stock, I suspect stock shrinkage over time. I an hour or so of sooting up the internals and careful chiseling got the lock back where it belonged.
Next it was time for a ramrod, the precarve from hell has a ramrod groove with a 1/2" bow to the right, I didn't notice this until after I installed the ramrod entry pipe. The rear pipe went in a little wonky and took some adjusting before I could get the ramrod in the hole but I got it done, again while the gun was in the white.
In the finished gun the ramrod would NOT go in.
I actually stared at the celling in bed last night trying to figure out a way the best way to fix the ramrod hole problem.
I went out to my shop and looked in my storage tube for old ramrods and found a 5/16" ramrod hole drill that I didn't know I had. I decided to upend the blunt end with a ball peen hammer and turn it into a scraper.
I didn't notice this picture was blurry until I assembled everything after the fix.
I removed the entry pipe and used a piece of leather to shim up the scraper and get it to make contact with the tight area of wood that needed to be removed.
I would run the scraper in and out a dozen times and try to get a ramrod in the hole, it went in slightly better after the first scraping, 5 more scraping sessions and the ramrod went in normally with just enough resistance to hold it in place.
Success! I had an old 3/8" ramrod that I cut off to fit this 38" barreled gun, It will be my temp until I make a new one that is stained right to match this gun.
Next it was time for a ramrod, the precarve from hell has a ramrod groove with a 1/2" bow to the right, I didn't notice this until after I installed the ramrod entry pipe. The rear pipe went in a little wonky and took some adjusting before I could get the ramrod in the hole but I got it done, again while the gun was in the white.
In the finished gun the ramrod would NOT go in.
I actually stared at the celling in bed last night trying to figure out a way the best way to fix the ramrod hole problem.
I went out to my shop and looked in my storage tube for old ramrods and found a 5/16" ramrod hole drill that I didn't know I had. I decided to upend the blunt end with a ball peen hammer and turn it into a scraper.
I didn't notice this picture was blurry until I assembled everything after the fix.
I removed the entry pipe and used a piece of leather to shim up the scraper and get it to make contact with the tight area of wood that needed to be removed.
I would run the scraper in and out a dozen times and try to get a ramrod in the hole, it went in slightly better after the first scraping, 5 more scraping sessions and the ramrod went in normally with just enough resistance to hold it in place.
Success! I had an old 3/8" ramrod that I cut off to fit this 38" barreled gun, It will be my temp until I make a new one that is stained right to match this gun.
Here are a couple of bad pictures of the rifle made from the Issac Haines precarve from hell, dingy un-remarkable pictures that are common when taken in a shop on a rainy day.
"Precarve from hell"? you might say, here is why, I am sure I will have forgotten a bunch of the flaws.
The ramrod hole was drilled to have a 3/8" web at the breech, the buttplate was installed by track so I was limited on how much i could drop the barrel and still have the comb line up properly.
The lock inlet put the pan below the side flat of the barrel, it took lots wood and glue to close the inlet to redo.
The barrel was inletted at a very obvious slant, not straight down, I reinletted the whole thing.
The ramrod groove was cut with a 1/2" bow to the side, I couldn't fix this.
Because of the 3/8" web I was limited to how deep I could put the trigger plate, I had to stop just as I was getting into the ramrod channel. The triggers were too low so I had to add metal to the trigger bar to get it to reach the sear of the lock.
The stock was not cut straight, I didn't notice until I laid out the centerline from the ramrod groove to the toe of the butt tock that it had a distinct twist and bow below the lock panel. I could even this out with some side to side wood removal but some of it is still there if you look close.
Those are just the biggies, there were plenty of easily correctable little things. I should have trashed the stock and started over but being exceptionally bull headed I forged ahead. As you can see the wood is pretty nice, this is what kept me from trashing the stock.
I suspect the gun to be great shooter, this is all I really wanted out of a bargain basement second hand kit. I had Bobby Hoyt re-bore the barrel from a .50 to a .54 as I prefer a .54 for deer hunting. I paid $650 shipped for the kit from a guy who didn't want to put it together, he didn't know it had such flaws because he took it in trade and never looked it over. I ran the numbers on Tracks on-line order form and came up with $1100 worth of parts plus track had cut all the dovetails and installed the buttplate as well as included every drill, tap and counter sink to complete the build.
And now the finished gun;
"Precarve from hell"? you might say, here is why, I am sure I will have forgotten a bunch of the flaws.
The ramrod hole was drilled to have a 3/8" web at the breech, the buttplate was installed by track so I was limited on how much i could drop the barrel and still have the comb line up properly.
The lock inlet put the pan below the side flat of the barrel, it took lots wood and glue to close the inlet to redo.
The barrel was inletted at a very obvious slant, not straight down, I reinletted the whole thing.
The ramrod groove was cut with a 1/2" bow to the side, I couldn't fix this.
Because of the 3/8" web I was limited to how deep I could put the trigger plate, I had to stop just as I was getting into the ramrod channel. The triggers were too low so I had to add metal to the trigger bar to get it to reach the sear of the lock.
The stock was not cut straight, I didn't notice until I laid out the centerline from the ramrod groove to the toe of the butt tock that it had a distinct twist and bow below the lock panel. I could even this out with some side to side wood removal but some of it is still there if you look close.
Those are just the biggies, there were plenty of easily correctable little things. I should have trashed the stock and started over but being exceptionally bull headed I forged ahead. As you can see the wood is pretty nice, this is what kept me from trashing the stock.
I suspect the gun to be great shooter, this is all I really wanted out of a bargain basement second hand kit. I had Bobby Hoyt re-bore the barrel from a .50 to a .54 as I prefer a .54 for deer hunting. I paid $650 shipped for the kit from a guy who didn't want to put it together, he didn't know it had such flaws because he took it in trade and never looked it over. I ran the numbers on Tracks on-line order form and came up with $1100 worth of parts plus track had cut all the dovetails and installed the buttplate as well as included every drill, tap and counter sink to complete the build.
And now the finished gun;
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I would really like to post some photographs with my posts, however I have not yet taken the time to learn how to do it. One day I will learn and then there will be photographs. Although I am more of a tintype kind of guy.
Good looking gun Eric
More powder Griz!
They ain’t that tuff….lol
Seriously shot at 25 yards , .54 cal 70 grns of fffg..
Took the .54 GRRW CA to the range today to see if I could hit anything at 100 yards. I've only shot it at 50 & 75 yards so far. It's good to go for mule deer hunting in a week and a half from now!
It's actually the 3rd rifle season here in Colorado but I will probably try to get one with the muzzleloader first then pull out the unmentionable If I haven't gotten one by the time the season winds down. I don't wanna miss out on any meat! Daughter has a tag too, so we'll see!
It's actually the 3rd rifle season here in Colorado but I will probably try to get one with the muzzleloader first then pull out the unmentionable If I haven't gotten one by the time the season winds down. I don't wanna miss out on any meat! Daughter has a tag too, so we'll see!
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