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What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

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No need to buy slix shot nipples, cutting a shallow groove in the nipple that can barely catch your finger nail, will do the trick.
My primary reason for going to slix was the use of #11 caps. #10 were almost impossible to find at the time and I had an abundance of #11 caps.
HOWEVER - I liked the performance of the slix nipples so much that I put them in all 3 of my revolvers.
Cap jams have all but become extinct. You are right - there was no "NEED" to replace - but the upgrade was worth every penny.
 
If 11s were what you needed, I can understand what you had to do. However, a shallow groove at 6'oclock on the nipple face will do the same thing as far as cap jams go. If you still have your old nipples and the time to do it and you can find some # 10s, why not do an experiment for the sake of discovery ? You never know when # 11s might be hard to find one day.
 
If 11s were what you needed, I can understand what you had to do. However, a shallow groove at 6'oclock on the nipple face will do the same thing as far as cap jams go. If you still have your old nipples and the time to do it and you can find some # 10s, why not do an experiment for the sake of discovery ? You never know when # 11s might be hard to find one day.
Perfectly stated. I agree. That's one thing I did do and always do - I bag and label all my older replaced parts because you are spot on with "You never know" statement above.
I have a few long guns (a few too many as my wife sees it) that use #11 caps as well, and I converted my 2 musket cap guns to #11 nipples too, so I only need to carry one type of cap.
I have enough #11 caps in my cabinet to go for years. Maybe enough to go for more years than I have left to go.
I do have a few tins of #10 Remington's because I do some repair work on friends revolvers that have not been re-nippled.
I see no benefit from using #10 caps on my revolvers or musket caps on my Enfield and Moroccan. I have however - retained the replaced parts for "You never know".
 
That is really interesting about you changing your muskets to #11s. I did that to a rifle musket way back in 1981 because musket caps were to expensive for me at that time and the blowback from the musket nipple was too much. By going to a #11 nipple I solved both problems at the same time. And all these years I thought I was the only one who did this.
 
That is really interesting about you changing your muskets to #11s. I did that to a rifle musket way back in 1981 because musket caps were to expensive for me at that time and the blowback from the musket nipple was too much. By going to a #11 nipple I solved both problems at the same time. And all these years I thought I was the only one who did this.
TOTW carries nipples that have the square base instead of the standard oblong base like the #10 and #11 nipples have. You do have to look closely to see that they are #11 nipples.
As you mentioned - The fact that the #11 nipples have a much smaller vent hole makes them less volatile towards the shooter and also helps retain more power going down the barrel instead of venting through the nipple. I reduced my powder charge after changing the one out in my Enfield to keep it at the same POI.
Since I will only shoot VERY light loads in the Moroccan I did not make any changes to the powder loads on it. It has a rolled tube barrel and I am not going to push it.
It's more of a special interest piece than a daily shooter.
It does get some attention at the range.
https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/...re-need-some-nipple-help.115061/#post-1572744
 
Thank you, Sir. TBH, I didn't notice much, if any, difference in ignition - both were very fast to me. Lovely range you have there, BTW. :)
Its rather interesting to me that I can sense a difference in delay when shooting the musket. I perceived a tiny bit more delay with the 1Fg pan powder than the 3Fg. Watching the video, it seems as if there is practically no difference.

We own the range and its purpose is for traditional muzzle loading. We have marked ranges for up to 200 yards. That's been good enough for us.
 
started the day by casting 100 .54 round balls. then switched to .54 minie's. finished with .54 maxiballs. boy those minie's and maxi's drain the pot fast!
puttered with the SMR i'm building but just wasn't in the mood. switched to a salvage cva mountain rifle that needed a new breach plug. got it cut squared and tapped. tomorrow will make the plug, and maybe get to cutting the barrel wedge dovetails.
sorted my bullet drawer. was getting to heavy to open. now i have one drawer for45's, .50's and one for .54.
rained all day so couldn't make smoke without getting wet.
wife say's i'm so sweet for sharpening her kitchen knives i'd melt:ghostly:
 
so far i have made a breech plug and installed it in the salvage cva .45 mountain rifle. i am doing it only because my long gone armpit buddy gave it to me.
loaned it to my brother for a prop in his photo studio and the breech end of the barrel somehow got cut off.
worked some on a TC flinter but ran out of parts. may work on my SMR this afternoon OR may take a nap. been puttering since before light so i think the nap wins! 🛌zzzzzz!

the cva won out over a nap. finished except for the wedge tennons and the under rib and thimbles.
 
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Just finished a knife sheath this morning for a knife that I completed last week. The sheath is made out of vegetable tanned cow hide and the fringe is made from split elk hide. The knife is a trapper-hunter style knife. The blade is 1095 HC steel. The bolster and pins are mild steel and the scales are black walnut. Debating back and forth on whether to age knife or not. Leaving as is for now.
 

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Got my 24 Ga. barrel inlaid, ramrod grooved and drilled! Now I can start making a gun. Nice 48" barrel, very flexible, so it was like trying to inlay a piece of linguini!!!! Whew!
Robby
 
I shot my 45 at 250 yards. The wind was blowing right to left.
 

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Ramrod build

I got the stick to 0.370 to 0.380" and figured close enough.

But it isn't, it sticks here and there in the pipes and stock.

So I made a gauge block in a piece of aluminum with a 3/8" drill bit so I could run the stick through it and find the sticky places on the stick.

It works terrific, so as I find the sticky places I will sand them until the rod fits the pipes and stock nice.

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