I agree with Carbon6 on too much lube. I find TOTW mink oil to be extremely slick and get much better groups if I apply it very lightly. I simply swipe a patch across the tin of lube once with "medium" pressure on the patch and then rub it into the patch clear out to the edges with my thumbs. I will apply a bit more if needed to ensure there is lube clear out to the edges. You almost have to set one of my lubed patches next to an unlubed one to see they are slightly darker. I only lube one side, I always do the side with the stripes to keep track of which way to orient the patch when loading. I'd bet that group will tighten up at least an inch with lighter lube, besides the clogging issues you're seeing.
I've seen suggestions of Hoppes BP solvent as a lube and Mr. Flintlocks. I have no experience with Mr. Flintlocks, but will say since your main purpose is hunting I'd stick with a grease or oil style lube that won't dry out when left loaded for several hours.
You don't need to wash unlubed pre-cut patches, just when you buy and make them yourself from a fabric store. At least in my experience.
Your recovered patches sound fine, the edges will always be frayed some. You just don't want to see any cuts, tears, holes, or shredding inside of the frayed edges.
You said you were swabbing with a "dry patch". This is a great way to get your patch, jag, and rod stuck in the bore. It can also be knocking dry fouling down into your flame channel and causing your clogging issues. Try using a damp spit patch, or water, or denatured alcohol, or blue windex, or Hoppes BP solvent, or any number of other things. Run it down the bore in one smooth stroke, let it sit for a few seconds so the fouling has a chance to soften, and then pull it back out. Make sure the patch is only damp, you don't want a bunch of moisture squeezing out of it and all that running into your flame channel. Follow this with a dry patch and then snap a cap to ensure the flame channel is still clear. Fouling should come out the bore and you should be able to see a leaf or dry patch you placed on the ground move when the cap goes off. If it doesn't, do it again.
2f is just fine if you want to use it, it is just odd that you're seeing worse fouling with 3f rather than 2f. I believe that is what Carbon6 is referring to. I see a very noticeable difference between 2f and 3f, with 3f fouling being much less. Perhaps the finer fouling of 3f combined with your dry patch swabbing is letting the finer fouling get into the flame channel easier?
If you can get a .445 RB down the bore with an .018" thick patch, then you may also see better results with a .440 RB with a .020" thick patch.
