Its a single lever set trigger. It can only be fired when set, That's a very common trigger arrangement for mid 19th century rifles.
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Whitmore, Duff, Wolff & Co.
- Thread starter Davey Boy
- Start date
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Grenadier, thank you for that information.
I have some photos of the stock pre cleaned and not mended. It is a wonder the gun didn't fall apart. It certainly sturdy now.
I saved every little piece of wood for reattaching after cleaning. I have no luck with cyan acrylic so I used 15 minute two part epoxy with 3C tweezers and a binocular microscope to reattach.
I saved every little piece of wood for reattaching after cleaning. I have no luck with cyan acrylic so I used 15 minute two part epoxy with 3C tweezers and a binocular microscope to reattach.
More wood pre clean
Some more pictures of the lock assembly.
I don't know what they had to work with for making threads but what I have seen on this rifle is pretty hard looking. There is a lot of wear on the hammer and much of the metal is gone. Still hits the cap with a good surface so it's a keeper.
The little fly part that has a pivot pin was really beginning to stick. After cleaning and lubrication it works well.
The two little screws still work but they look tender. I do not have any plans to keep removing and reassembling parts. Get them in place and snug and move on.
I don't know what they had to work with for making threads but what I have seen on this rifle is pretty hard looking. There is a lot of wear on the hammer and much of the metal is gone. Still hits the cap with a good surface so it's a keeper.
The little fly part that has a pivot pin was really beginning to stick. After cleaning and lubrication it works well.
The two little screws still work but they look tender. I do not have any plans to keep removing and reassembling parts. Get them in place and snug and move on.
I wanted to show the patchbox with patches in it.
Looks like table cloth to me.
Measures about 1 1/2"
Now the patches were cut pretty round and I wondered if they used something to help cut them out,
I couldn't find an 1850 silver dollar, but...
Looks like table cloth to me.
Measures about 1 1/2"
Now the patches were cut pretty round and I wondered if they used something to help cut them out,
I couldn't find an 1850 silver dollar, but...
I machined a piece of brass to just fit the barrel to determine the bore size. I kept taking a little off until it fit well.
So I finished it looking like a bullet so it won't get lost.
Should the bore be called a 40 caliber?
What size round ball would be used?
So I finished it looking like a bullet so it won't get lost.
Should the bore be called a 40 caliber?
What size round ball would be used?
A .40 caliber rifle will shoot a lead .390 roundball nicely.
Track of the Wolf has some .389 and .395 diameter balls for sale. Follow this link
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/127/1
I would go for the .389 diameter balls.
Track of the Wolf has some .389 and .395 diameter balls for sale. Follow this link
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/127/1
I would go for the .389 diameter balls.
I will get some of the .389 coming from the Wolf, thank you Zonie.
I tried to check Rate of twist and stuck the cleaning stem and rag in the barrel. It's still stuck and I think I will try using compressed ait to blow it out via the cap nipple.
When I took the rifle apart first time it had a brass home made screw holding the lock plate together. It was barely holding on what looked like one thread but it did work.
As I explained in an earlier post, do no harm to the original. I wasn't going to try to improve on that brass screw that looked like it was made with two rocks. There was clearance between the inside hammer face and the lock plate. The screw hole in the lock plate measured I think about 0.140" and somewhat round. I drew out in CAD (computer assisted drawing) a sketch of the room I had to work with. I ended up with a tapered plug with a lip, threaded 6-32 on center that could work. I had stainless steel screws and used that to assemble. The brass plug fit the hole good and I set I in place with a hammer tap or two. A check of the screw to make sure it was perpendicular to the plate and a first fit test.
The brass insert is shown with the hammer puled back out of the way. The stainless screw will have to be replaced but for now I needed it to hold everything in place. I hand filed the brass until the hammer cleared without interference. At this time the hammer had to be secured in place to perform the insert work.
Satisfied with fit I bought a slotted head brass screw long enough to replace the stainless screw with a Philips head. The brass screw has rolled threads with an tapered end at the thread. To just cut to length would be ugly. Lathe time required.
As I explained in an earlier post, do no harm to the original. I wasn't going to try to improve on that brass screw that looked like it was made with two rocks. There was clearance between the inside hammer face and the lock plate. The screw hole in the lock plate measured I think about 0.140" and somewhat round. I drew out in CAD (computer assisted drawing) a sketch of the room I had to work with. I ended up with a tapered plug with a lip, threaded 6-32 on center that could work. I had stainless steel screws and used that to assemble. The brass plug fit the hole good and I set I in place with a hammer tap or two. A check of the screw to make sure it was perpendicular to the plate and a first fit test.
The brass insert is shown with the hammer puled back out of the way. The stainless screw will have to be replaced but for now I needed it to hold everything in place. I hand filed the brass until the hammer cleared without interference. At this time the hammer had to be secured in place to perform the insert work.
Satisfied with fit I bought a slotted head brass screw long enough to replace the stainless screw with a Philips head. The brass screw has rolled threads with an tapered end at the thread. To just cut to length would be ugly. Lathe time required.
I have to hold the screw by the treads to get a clean cut off to length of the screw. The process I use is to machine a threaded collar that will hold the screw while it gets cut down. A lock washer and nut holds it tightly together while chucked in the lathe. After the screw is cut to length,, a light touch of a fine file does the last finish work.
Tap drill
Cut the collar from stock
Tap with a tap follower for nice straight threads
Bolt up the screw with threads to be cut off sticking out
Cut threads flush to the collar with the lathe
Finished screw cut to length with a nice end cut
Tap drill
Cut the collar from stock
Tap with a tap follower for nice straight threads
Bolt up the screw with threads to be cut off sticking out
Cut threads flush to the collar with the lathe
Finished screw cut to length with a nice end cut
Ordered today, Thank you!
With parts done, time to blacken the brass pieces.
In this picture shown below, when the hammer is in place on the post, there is metal above the hammer face. I have previously removed the peened metal holding the hammer in place, machined it flat, and left it to as close as possible to original size. I made a brass washer with square hole to match the post. I have excellent strike face on the cap in this configuration. the lock works without binding or slop.
I thing the Screw for the hammer is threaded 6-40, the tapered plug is 6-32. I had already made the tapered plug for a store bought 6-32 screw. I do know better than to use a 6-32 thread size for anything. At the time it was my intention to make this a presentable wall hanger. I will not do it again.
The hammer post is threaded 6-40 and was done in a milling machine to be precisely lined up and perpendicular. Bottoming tap from McMaster Carr. Screw from track of the Wolf.
I don't like the head diameter in the tabbed washer. Later on I can machine a replacement screw with a larger head that looks like what an original screw should. For now it works, few would see the difference. Some research required for this to learn if it should be a slotted head screw or a post requiring a tool.
In this picture shown below, when the hammer is in place on the post, there is metal above the hammer face. I have previously removed the peened metal holding the hammer in place, machined it flat, and left it to as close as possible to original size. I made a brass washer with square hole to match the post. I have excellent strike face on the cap in this configuration. the lock works without binding or slop.
I thing the Screw for the hammer is threaded 6-40, the tapered plug is 6-32. I had already made the tapered plug for a store bought 6-32 screw. I do know better than to use a 6-32 thread size for anything. At the time it was my intention to make this a presentable wall hanger. I will not do it again.
The hammer post is threaded 6-40 and was done in a milling machine to be precisely lined up and perpendicular. Bottoming tap from McMaster Carr. Screw from track of the Wolf.
I don't like the head diameter in the tabbed washer. Later on I can machine a replacement screw with a larger head that looks like what an original screw should. For now it works, few would see the difference. Some research required for this to learn if it should be a slotted head screw or a post requiring a tool.
Pete G
76 Cal.
Look to TOW for a proper lock screw. A brass fully threaded machine screw is not correct.
Pete G,
For the age of this rifle, mid 1800, would it have a slotted head screw of a round ball type? The threads have long gone in the lock.
Thank you,
Dave
For the age of this rifle, mid 1800, would it have a slotted head screw of a round ball type? The threads have long gone in the lock.
Thank you,
Dave
You might be able to find a suitable lock bolt on this page from Track of the Wolf.
Search - Track of the Wolf
Search - Track of the Wolf
Grenadier 1758,
Thank you, I am very reluctant to replace the screw because I do not know what the original thread size was. Age has taken the threads. I can certainly make a a screw to fit from steel if I ever discover the information.
I did find a complete lock at TOW that looks like this lock. It did not occur to me to replace the lock or the lock plate.
There is no reason I couldn't just make a copy of the lock plate. Drill new holes, tap with proper threads and transfer parts.
If the lever that engages the trigger location is correct on a replacement lock I could swap it out with the original.
I am going to move forward from here to determine the safety of firing round ball. If this becomes a shooter, I will replace the lock or lock plate.
Terrific.
Dave
Thank you, I am very reluctant to replace the screw because I do not know what the original thread size was. Age has taken the threads. I can certainly make a a screw to fit from steel if I ever discover the information.
I did find a complete lock at TOW that looks like this lock. It did not occur to me to replace the lock or the lock plate.
There is no reason I couldn't just make a copy of the lock plate. Drill new holes, tap with proper threads and transfer parts.
If the lever that engages the trigger location is correct on a replacement lock I could swap it out with the original.
I am going to move forward from here to determine the safety of firing round ball. If this becomes a shooter, I will replace the lock or lock plate.
Terrific.
Dave
If you are worried about threads, then look at these unthreaded lock bolts:
Search - Track of the Wolf
Then measure the lock fastener you have to compare to the table below.
#6 machine screw diameter = 0.138"
#8 machine screw diameter = 0.164"
#10 machine screw diameter = 0.190"
Bolt Depot - Machine Screw Diameter Table
Search - Track of the Wolf
Then measure the lock fastener you have to compare to the table below.
#6 machine screw diameter = 0.138"
#8 machine screw diameter = 0.164"
#10 machine screw diameter = 0.190"
Bolt Depot - Machine Screw Diameter Table
I get 0.198 to over 0.2 depending on measuring point. Hole is larger and threads are gone in the lock plate.
Well I stuck a cleaning rag and cleaning rod tip in the barrel.
Tried using the brand new can of Ballistol and let some soak in the bore.
I thought I would blow it out with compressed air. No, that was a complete failure. So, tried a worm. Fail.
My hands were so greasy dirty I couldn't get them clean. Had to get the sugar out, added liquid dish detergent, that cleaned my hands good.
Done for the day.
Next up
May as well take the barrel out, soak the plug end from the bore with iodine, remove the cap chamber thing, remove the plug from the barrel. Drive out the jam.
Measure rate of twist and inspect the bore.
Tried using the brand new can of Ballistol and let some soak in the bore.
I thought I would blow it out with compressed air. No, that was a complete failure. So, tried a worm. Fail.
My hands were so greasy dirty I couldn't get them clean. Had to get the sugar out, added liquid dish detergent, that cleaned my hands good.
Done for the day.
Next up
May as well take the barrel out, soak the plug end from the bore with iodine, remove the cap chamber thing, remove the plug from the barrel. Drive out the jam.
Measure rate of twist and inspect the bore.
Similar threads
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