Who can finish a kit?

[EC121]

Chambers has an Isaac Haines kit for $1100 or so plus more for better wood. It isn't a snap together kit. It will take a while to assemble.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Getting back to the original post, I think the gentleman wanted names of people who would assemble and finish kit guns, and he specifically wanted an Isaac Haines style longrifle with a patchbox and some carving. I believe Jim Chambers, Dunlap Woodcrafts, and Track of the Wolf all sell kits for this style of rifle. The Chambers kits are said to be a real challenge for first-time builders. They keep a list of builders who will assemble their kits, so you can call them and ask, if you get a Chambers kit.

I got a CVA Big Bore Mountain Rifle kit some years ago, before I retired. I had very little free time, and wanted to find someone to assemble and finish it, and shorten the LOP. It was hard to find anyone to do it. Most custom builders refuse to put anyone else's kit together. I asked a bunch of them. I finally found a certified gunsmith in Tennessee who did the job at a very reasonable price. His "thing" is primarily defraying Italian guns for Civil War ree actors. He did a super job finishing the metal, and a good job with the wood. He was for some reason unable to shorten the LOP as much as requested, and he missed a few details. The hammer was out of alignment with the nipple, for example, and one of the thimbles is chronically loose. You get what you pay for.

I think the guys at October Country used to build from kits on request, but I don't know about now. On this forum, @PathfinderNC has shown several Kibler kits he has completed. @The Crisco Kid also assembled a beautiful full stocked plains rifle and showed it on the forum. @Hatchet-Jack put together a Chambers kit and did a really professional job. Maybe send those fellows a PM and ask.

Good luck! I hope you get the rifle you want, in time for elk season!

Notchy Bob

 

[brianstewart]

Well I like the Isaac Haines model probably best of all the ones I looked at. I'd prefer the 38" barrel over the longer style ones because for one it would save some on weight. Ive elk hunted for over 20 years and I've killed several and none of them have been close to the trailhead. We usually put 8+ miles in a day unless we spike camp then it will decrease usually so a little lighter gun does help.



As far as caliber I'd prefer a .54 I'll be shooting round balls. I've killed a few with a .50 caliber with conical style bullets but I'm wanting this setup for just round balls.

I appreciate everyone's help I'm sure I can find some one. One thing I have against me on doing one myself at the moment is for one I drive for UPS and usually work late and second I'm in the process of renovating a house trying to get it done. I see my next few months really tied up for extra time.

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Order a Kibler colonial in .58 put it together or have someone put it together for you with no engraving or carving. Hunt with it and sell it afterwards. In the meantime order exactly what you want from a competent builder. You're not going to find anyone worth their salt who can make what you want in your time frame.

 

[nchawkeye]

Well I like the Isaac Haines model probably best of all the ones I looked at. I'd prefer the 38" barrel over the longer style ones because for one it would save some on weight. Ive elk hunted for over 20 years and I've killed several and none of them have been close to the trailhead. We usually put 8+ miles in a day unless we spike camp then it will decrease usually so a little lighter gun does help.



As far as caliber I'd prefer a .54 I'll be shooting round balls. I've killed a few with a .50 caliber with conical style bullets but I'm wanting this setup for just round balls.

I appreciate everyone's help I'm sure I can find some one. One thing I have against me on doing one myself at the moment is for one I drive for UPS and usually work late and second I'm in the process of renovating a house trying to get it done. I see my next few months really tied up for extra time.

Gotcha, the reason I asked, I built what others call an Isaac Haines in 1988, before anyone was calling it that...It is a .54 with a 38 inch barrel, but, it is tapered, not swamped, so it weighs about 9 pounds...Your best bet is to get a Kibler Woods Runner...It takes less to finish off the Woods Runner vs the Chambers Isaac Haines and their is little weight difference between the two...The barrel is about 2 inches longer but once you get to 38 inches a couple of more don't really matter...

 

[billraby]

You are looking for a custom rifle with a short time frame. That is going to be tough. Anyone doing quality work always has a long wait. Only way to get around that is to offer to pay a lot extra. Even then it might be a long shot. Patch box and carving can easily double the time it takes to build a rifle. Engraving adds a lot more time. Any of the kits except for Kibler will take a rather long time also if you have not built a few before. I think you best option is to find a used rifle that you like. Or go hunting with a rifle you already have and hunt with a custom rifle some time in the future. Custom flintlocks are not for people in a hurry.

 

[Graybeard2A]

KIBLER!! HANDS DOWN! THE ONLY WAY BUILDING ONE OF HIS RIFLES COULD BE EASIER IS IF IT PUT ITSELF TOGETHER!! And for around 1000 to 1300 you will have a keepsake to hand down.
JUST MY THOUGHTS! Whatever you decide, have a great elk hunt!!!

 

[Jedidiah]

Well I like the Isaac Haines model probably best of all the ones I looked at. I'd prefer the 38" barrel over the longer style ones because for one it would save some on weight. Ive elk hunted for over 20 years and I've killed several and none of them have been close to the trailhead. We usually put 8+ miles in a day unless we spike camp then it will decrease usually so a little lighter gun does help.



As far as caliber I'd prefer a .54 I'll be shooting round balls. I've killed a few with a .50 caliber with conical style bullets but I'm wanting this setup for just round balls.

I appreciate everyone's help I'm sure I can find some one. One thing I have against me on doing one myself at the moment is for one I drive for UPS and usually work late and second I'm in the process of renovating a house trying to get it done. I see my next few months really tied up for extra time.

I have an Isaac Haines style that does not have a patch box, nor a nose cap. Isaac Haines rifles are not all exactly the same. It does have a 38In Swamped .54 barrel etc and all the other features that make it a Haines.!

 

[Robby]

Like Mulebrain said:

Jim Chambers Flintlocks
All his stuff is top quality and he has a list of guys that will finish it as plain or fancy as you like. Good luck!!!!
Robby

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

After talking to several rifle makers it looks like I'm a year to a two year wait to get a rifle. I'm wanting to elk hunt with a flintlock next year. Either I get a kit and finish myself which I'm afraid to mess it up or try to find a one that I like. Or have someone finish one for me that isnt backed up and send them the kit. Do you guys have any recommendations? I'm wanting to do an Isaac Haines with a metal patch box and some light carving and engraving but nothing super elaborate.

Marvin Berry just completed a Christian Hawken (Berks County) flintlock. You might be able to buy that one. It's beautiful and has engraving from Mike Miller. Look Marvin up on FB:

And a young builder that I'm really impressed with named Adam Daub. He's currently building a Beck:

 

[blackeagle]

The Isaac Haines kit form Jim Chambers is lovely. I respect that you're "sticking to your gun" with regard to what you want. Would love to see more builder recommendations suggested to you instead of a kit you don't want. It may be difficult but not necessarily impossible to find a builder to do an Isaac Haines style who has availability to match your timeline. Or keep an eye on Track of the Wolf and the forum for sales in case a used one becomes available.

 

[Snooterpup]

One thing to consider with a flintlock is reliability. Reliability costs. If you buy a top quality lock your chances are better to actually kill the elk. Any money saved on the lock may be inconsequential when you have a misfire on your elk. I know I would be extremely disappointed to miss my chance because of a junkie mass market flintlock. IF it is really a money thing get a caplock in cheap gun. I would not use any of the mass market price point flint locks on a hunt that matters.

My first flintlock deer took three tries to get ignition. That was the original TC flintlock in 1975. I see little improvement in the mass produced cast lock wonders today.

You are 100% correct! Quality flint lock is an absolute necessity to avoid disappointment and frustration. I’ve learned that many years ago with inexpensive locks. It just ain’t worth it. Pay good money for that lock and never look back. Chambers locks are excellent. The very best flint lock I have ever owned is my current Kibler Colonial lock.
Kibler sells these for $300.00 and worth every penny.

 

[Mike in FL]

My favorite is Jim Chambers. I bought his early Lancaster kit and had it done by a local builder. Paid as much for the build as for the kit. If you are not really really good with kits I would search for someone who is and can get it done in time.
I'm like you, I would never consider skipping the hunt.

 

[brianstewart]

It looks like I've found some help. Thanks to everyone for your help.

 

[Pete G]

There are three types of work available:
Cheap, Fast, & Good. You can have any two…

 

[Dartwick]

All questions here are answered with "...or buy a Kibler."

Im not saying its wrong, but its kind of funny.

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

All questions here are answered with "...or buy a Kibler."

Im not saying its wrong, but its kind of funny.

It is funny. I've built a few Kibler's for guys who thought they were going to sit in front of the TV and snap them together. EEHHHH. Easier than most, but not as easy as they're advertised to be. Semper Fi.

 

[Snooterpup]

It is funny. I've built a few Kibler's for guys who thought they were going to sit in front of the TV and snap them together. EEHHHH. Easier than most, but not as easy as they're advertised to be. Semper Fi.

Well, I’ve had many challenges “fixing” different finished kits. Cannot speak for the Kibler Southern Mountain kit as I haven’t built that kit but I have finished the Kibler Colonial. There are all ranges of kits available on the market. Does the Kibler Colonial snap together in front of the TV? no, unless you want something that is somewhat unremarkable. But will it shoot and be reliable? Absolutely! The devil is in the details.
The pros for Jim’s kit are:
1. Parts and materials, Quality, quality, quality.
2. All the really hard work that will guarantee sucess has been done. Proper configuration and relationship of barrel, lock and trigger are essential and done correctly. These are the most important relationships to have a well built reliable flintlock.
3. At least 90% of the fitting the other parts are done.
4. Absolutely historically correct!
5. Jim has a video library that will cover all aspects of the assembly and finishing and will actually talk to you if you have specific questions or problems.
6. Everything made by Americans and made in the USA.

Cons:
None.

If a person has decent tool knowledge and skill (no need to be a Master Gunsmith) and take time and care you will have a fine rifle superior in quality and function to 95% of factory guns.

For those without confidence in their skill or without the time to take this leap just have Jim and his team assemble it and pay the bucks. Or pay a builder to assemble and finish the rifle. Any of these options will provide you with a rifle you will be proud to own and that, with proper care, last you the rest of your life. (And your ancestors!)

Are Kibler’s guns as good as those of a master builder? Will they works as well? Absolutely and without question.
As far as beautiful, they could be, as evidence by Jim’s photo gallery. This will depend on the skill of the assembler/builder.

Addressing comments like “they are all alike”, this is only limited by the builder and assembler’s skill and imagination.

After all, most brown bess guns look very similar but folks are queueing up to buy essentially the same gun.

In closing I will say the lock in my Colonial is the finest flintlock mechanism I’ve experienced, and I have seen and worked on many.

Fanboy? Don’t like the label.
Deep respect for the man, his business, and his superior products. Yes, without question.

PS Apparently, the Woodsrunner does snap together.

 

[springfield art]

After talking to several rifle makers it looks like I'm a year to a two year wait to get a rifle. I'm wanting to elk hunt with a flintlock next year. Either I get a kit and finish myself which I'm afraid to mess it up or try to find a one that I like. Or have someone finish one for me that isnt backed up and send them the kit. Do you guys have any recommendations? I'm wanting to do an Isaac Haines with a metal patch box and some light carving and engraving but nothing super elaborate.

You may need to 'borrow' a gun for the hunt. Don't rush anything. Good luck, I hear that in my state of PA you consider an elk tag a valuable prize. (Elk County, Pa., was out of elk until the 1920's when they imported some from out West.)

 

[springfield art]

Well, I’ve had many challenges “fixing” different finished kits. Cannot speak for the Kibler Southern Mountain kit as I haven’t built that kit but I have finished the Kibler Colonial. There are all ranges of kits available on the market. Does the Kibler Colonial snap together in front of the TV? no, unless you want something that is somewhat unremarkable. But will it shoot and be reliable? Absolutely! The devil is in the details.
The pros for Jim’s kit are:
1. Parts and materials, Quality, quality, quality.
2. All the really hard work that will guarantee sucess has been done. Proper configuration and relationship of barrel, lock and trigger are essential and done correctly. These are the most important relationships to have a well built reliable flintlock.
3. At least 90% of the fitting the other parts are done.
4. Absolutely historically correct!
5. Jim has a video library that will cover all aspects of the assembly and finishing and will actually talk to you if you have specific questions or problems.
6. Everything made by Americans and made in the USA.

Cons:
None.

If a person has decent tool knowledge and skill (no need to be a Master Gunsmith) and take time and care you will have a fine rifle superior in quality and function to 95% of factory guns.

For those without confidence in their skill or without the time to take this leap just have Jim and his team assemble it and pay the bucks. Or pay a builder to assemble and finish the rifle. Any of these options will provide you with a rifle you will be proud to own and that, with proper care, last you the rest of your life. (And your ancestors!)

Are Kibler’s guns as good as those of a master builder? Will they works as well? Absolutely and without question.
As far as beautiful, they could be, as evidence by Jim’s photo gallery. This will depend on the skill of the assembler/builder.

Addressing comments like “they are all alike”, this is only limited by the builder and assembler’s skill and imagination.

After all, most brown bess guns look very similar but folks are queueing up to buy essentially the same gun.

In closing I will say the lock in my Colonial is the finest flintlock mechanism I’ve experienced, and I have seen and worked on many.

Fanboy? Don’t like the label.
Deep respect for the man, his business, and his superior products. Yes, without question.

PS Apparently, the Woodsrunner does snap together.

Your comments are helpful, knowledgeable, and should be welcome by many on this site. Thanks.