Woodsrunner Builders - Tools and Supplies?

[mrfritz44]

I'd like to generate a list of tools and supplies previous Woodsrunner builders found useful given the fact that the Woodsrunner is machined to such a high degree of accuracy. In theory, I shouldn't need to buy much.

If you're an experienced Woodsrunner builder, can you please check my list for completeness and potential modifications?

Tools I need:

• Gunsmith screwdrivers
• Lock vice
• Files - what worked well for you?
• Chisel - What worked well for you?

Tools I own:

• Ballpeen hammer
• Mallet
• Needle nose pliers
• Wire cutters
• Nail set

Supplies I need:

• Red ScotchBright
• Sandpaper - grits 120 to 400?
• 0000 Steel Wool
• Brass Black - plan to blacken the brass
• Birchwood Casey Plum Brown
• Iron Nitrate
• Birchwood Casey TruOil - is there a better choice for a traditional hand rubbed satin finish?
• Wool Daubers to apply Brass Black and Browning solutions

Can anyone see anything I might be missing or have other suggestions?

 

[Phil Coffins]

On files, a 8” single cut smooth mill file for draw filing the barrel. And a set of jewelry files to detail the brass. Most of the chisels to complete nearly anything are in the picture but as I make them they don’t have names except the vainer.
Tru-oil is first rate to me, you can get any results with it by how you apply it.
68E83786-8D68-4762-85E4-2585FF10C917 by Oliver
Sudden, on Flickr
IMG_0250 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[mrfritz44]

Thanks Phil.

Did you find the need to draw file the barrel much, and if so, did you follow up with anything less abrasive?

I've only done one kit many years ago, an old Lyman that wasn't quality at all, and the barrel seemed pretty smooth to me then.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I sand with backing blocks after filing. It depends on what finish you want, I prefer no file marks and that includes a mat finish all the way to very smooth. Quality isn’t just skin deep!

 

[RobertIN]

Thanks Phil.

Did you find the need to draw file the barrel much, and if so, did you follow up with anything less abrasive?

I've only done one kit many years ago, an old Lyman that wasn't quality at all, and the barrel seemed pretty smooth to me then.

I got an SMR in the mail yesterday, I am amazed at how well finished the barrel is. Extremely fine mill marks you can barely feel and it looks like the texture of the pad of my thumb, if not smoother. Will set a reminder to take photos of it for you this evening.

 

[RobertIN]

Thanks Phil.

Did you find the need to draw file the barrel much, and if so, did you follow up with anything less abrasive?

I've only done one kit many years ago, an old Lyman that wasn't quality at all, and the barrel seemed pretty smooth to me then.

Hopefully you can see the marks, tried to get the sun to catch them but they're so small they might not be visible after the Internet compresses the image and kills the resolution a bit.

 

[mrfritz44]

I see them and thank you.

You get those out with a file or sandpaper?

 

[RobertIN]

I see them and thank you.

You get those out with a file or sandpaper?

I'm going to try fine grit paper with a hard backer. The marks are barely there as it is, so using a file might just cause more sanding work later. We'll see.

 

[mrfritz44]

Thanks much. Please let me know how it works out. Files seem like bringing a gun to a knife fight on a kit like this, except for the sand mold brass, but maybe I'm wrong.

 

[deerstalkert]

those mill marks are easier to draw file out than trying to sand them out in my experience. they will look like they are gone until you hit that barrel with a finish, either blue or brown. then they will show up like my brother in law for coffee. you can count on it.
keep the file clean by using talc . if a gob of metal builds up in the cut on a file it will make a scar on the flat. that causes one to say words that the boss objects to and makes for a night on the couch.
I use plain old baby powder. folks comment on how nice my guns smell!

 

[Phil Coffins]

Draw filing with a clean sharp file that you knock and brush the filings out of often will get to about 320 grit with sharp corners pretty quick. This barrel shows the extra writing removed by draw fileing before sanding.
IMG_0525 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[deerstalkert]

can't emphasize the clean sharp file enough. saves many tears. I buy a new Nicholson single cut for each barrel. I make cardboard scabbard's for each to protect them. some will say I'm nuts to buy a new one each time but they are used for making trigger plates, sights, and sundry other parts between barrels so i don't trust them on the flats of a new barrel. a 12.00 file is cheaper than a 200.00 to 400.00 barrel.

 

[Terry Lightle]

Hit wrong topic

 

[billraby]

Use a file. Those tool marks don't look like much now, but they will once you start working on them. Finish off with sandpaper from there.

 

[Tenring]

Use a NEW File or you will hate yourself, Sand Paper after the fact if you rally need to that is. I use a new file with a lite touch followed by Sand Paper with a flat steel backer that doesn’t flex.

 

[Phil Coffins]

A tip, start with the bottom flats to develop your filing technique.

 

[Rebel bull]

I have nicholson files that are in excess of 30 years old. buy good once and don't look back also remember you only file in one direction going back and forth only dulls the file

 

[reddogge]

I did get to handle a newly arrived Woodsrunner today at a friend's house. He is putting it together (the term building is a stretch) for his friend. It arrived yesterday and was completed today however there was a tiny gap between the bolster and the barrel he needed to address. But he is a scratch rifle builder so it won't be much of a problem. Most of the work will involve smoothing the brass parts and finishing the wood and metal. The lock sparked like crazy. Great kit though.

 

[PEARL DRUMS]

I guess I made things out to be more simple. I used a typical Craftsman screwdriver I had for the (3) screws, a pair of pliars to pull pins and tap them in and a 10" single cut for all file work. I used a 6" long chunk off the end of an hop hornbeam sapling to seat the barrel/tang as needed, its a free mallet. I used a piece of extra pin stock as a punch to remove pins. It's really a very simple assembly. I wouldn't suggest spending a bunch of money on tools. Just my .012438 cents worth.

 

[BR Sorenson]

My .250 cents worth. Filing the barrel. Depends on the mill marks. I'll start off with a nicholson file it's dubbelcut on one side and smooth cut on the other. Do the ruffing out with the dubble cut. Then smooth things out with the single cut. When the milling marks are gone. A 8in file is used. Now when filing I took some others advice. And use some chalkboard chalkboard and rub it accros the file. The grooves hold the chalk. And it helps to keep the filings. From sticking in to the grooves. So you aren't getting new scratches in your metal. That's worked for me on the last 2-3 barrel s I've filed out.
I've done 2 barrels with track of wolf's cold browning solution. It gets a little stinky. But getting rid of the used applicators helps. a ziplock bag is handy for that. By the way cotton balls are cheaper than wool dobbers. And using 1/3 of a cotton ball saves on how much solution you use / waste . Fore each coating of browning solution.
BC Plum brown requires the barrel to be heated. I have rifels with both. In the end they look the same.
Chisels I found that an ok set at Harbor Freight. Who would have thought. Well they have 2 sets. Both from the same company. You want the ones in the plastic wrap. NOT THE ONES IN THE BOX. Ironically the plastic wrap set it a couple of buck cheaper. Has steel that holds an edge better than the boxed set. There will be 2-3 Chisels you will use. The gouges. Set a side.
Honestly I don't know if I got the1 in 1000 good set from Harbor Freight. Also get a 1/16 in punch and put the nail punch back where you found it.