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I like the file-work it really adds to the look. Ive got a cold steel hawk just like that (poll can be handier than rounded eye for driving stakes etc), think Ill do similar to what you have done. They take a really good edge (mine is an older model perhaps, no set screw). Have others for...

I've been out of touch for a while and am shocked and saddened to hear of Paul V passing. I will miss his classic posts (you never needed to see his "byline", just measure the length of the reply to know who had made the contribution). He spent his time and energy sharing his knowledge and...

I use the same powder in both main charge and pan. 2F in My .54 GPR flinter. I'm too lazy to carry more than one grade of powder.

I have Lee moulds Ive been casting with for well over 30 years. Iron rusts, aluminum is soft, pick your poison. I dont have any argument with the plusses of Lyman, RCBS, H&G etc. and have used them all but Lee is very affordable. If you ever "need" a better mould you will know it and you will...

I've got a .54 GPR flinter and use 2F in both barrel and pan. Each gun seems to have its own preference. I've had no problem with 2F in the pan. I'm to lazy to carry more than one grade of powder.

The oldest ones used a drill bit with a flat ground on the side for two square head screwes that held the bit in the chuck, later they used the tapered four sided bit like an old "brace and bit". Ive seen many converted to use a Jacobs chuck. Many had a "self feed" or "power feed" that ran off...

Dont forget the option of changing to the TC hammer, top jaw and top jaw screw for better positioning of the flint if the bevel down or extra leather under the flint thing doesnt help enough.

I just use what seems enough. I dont heap it up or pile it against the TH or anything. Sometimes try to see how little I can use and it is a bit surprising how little it can take and still be pretty reliable. I do tend to prick the TH but like lead vs leather flint wrap or blowing down the...

I use 2F in my .54 GPR and in the pan (cause Im lazy) and it works fine for me.

If you want this style of pick (pros/cons etc) just go to your nearest welding supplier and buy a torch tip cleaning kit and take out the size you need for your TH. Pretty sure its cheaper than buying a single with shipping and you can pick the exact size you want. I make my TH picks from...

If you are going to get the T/C hammer, be sure to buy the Top Jaw and Jaw Screw as well. They are different sizes than the GPR uses. It takes about 2 weeks to get the parts delivered. T/C Part numbers: Hammer 51015630 Top Jaw 51015700 Top Jaw Screw 51165680

The last T/C cocks I got were loose on the Lyman

If you are going to get the T/C hammer, be sure to buy the Top Jaw and Jaw Screw as well. They are different sizes than the GPR uses. It takes about 2 weeks to get the parts delivered. T/C Part numbers: Hammer 51015630 Top Jaw 51015700 Jaw Screw 51165680

Priceless archive link, thanks. :hatsoff:

Here are some links to try for shooting box ideas and some plan info. www.northridgewoodworking.com/shootersbox.html www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol3no2/articles/mbo32-2.shtml www.shootingboxes.com

As others say, works well if nipple is accessible. I've never lost caps from mine and it keeps them clean and safely covered.

I use copper wire (12 ga or so), it hardens up nicely with forging to the size/shape you decide upon.

Ya got too much time on your hands Floyd, but not too bad for 23rd post. :thumbsup:

Davis "Deerslayer" Trigger $41

The GPR is pretty well thought of and worth messing with. Consider sending it back while its still under warranty with complaint about the soft frizzen and the poor trigger, It wont cost them a thing to swap them out. Or search the forum for instructions on rehardening the frizzen. Mine came...