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Just to elaborate for Carp, wrought iron has slag inclusions as part of its basic structure, and these are reduced but never eliminated in forging it to "refine" it, and in forging into the final item. The idea in using recovered horseshoe nail stubs was that the iron would have been further...

Just in case you haven't seen a full description of the Rupert shot-making process: - The lead needs some alloying to increase the surface tension to get reasonably round pellets. Some arsenic compound was traditionally used, but I read somewhere that antimony does this too, so I'd think that...

It CAN frequently give dount-shaped patterns, but does not necessarily. In my .50 rifle with a 36" by 1:48" twist barrel, I tried some shot loads with 3/4oz of #7.5 shot in a paper shot-cartridge over less than an equal volume of powder (can't recall exactly any more) and got even but very...

It depends what I'm up to. In my 16ga, I usually use FFg or Ctg for the charge, and at most equal volume to the shot charge, often somewhat less to tighten the pattern. 1oz of shot over 1.3/4-2.1/2dr powder 1.1/8oz " over 2-2.3/4dr " 1.1/4oz " over 2.1/4-3dr " I haven't played with 3/4oz loads...

Becky & Doug Middleton at Hillfolk Musket supplies in Senlac Saskatchewan, (306) 228 2949. They're good folks, and they also get around to most of the gun shows, at least across the prairies. For shotgun supplies, Wil Bilozir at http://www.bilozir.net carries bismuth, NiceShot, and Hevishot...

Thats's called "spiking". It was also done to ones own guns if they were going to be captured, so the enemy couldn't use them against you. The spikes could sometimes be pried out, otherwise they'd have to be drilled out, which would take a while, and the vents might have to be bushed...

Remember that ITX, NiceShot, Tungsten Matrix, and Classic Doubles are also also tungsten based, but in combinations/configurations that are supposed to make them barrel-friendly, in contrast to the hard tungsten alloys/composites that, like steel (actually iron), absolutely require serious bore...

... or Nice/Shot/EcoTungsten. Most of my friends and acquaintances that shoot non-toxic in muzzleloaders are using either bismuth or NiceSHot. Regards, Joel

If you really want the convenience of using a measuring spout, you can just dump the measured powder into something else to transfer it to the barrel. This is still somewhat quicker and less fussy than carefully pouring into a measure. As I believe someone has already mentioned, you could...

I wish Paul V. was still with us to reply. He was an expert tracker and tracking instructor, and was constantly exhorting us to learn read the tracks and other sign, as this was much more useful while the blood was just the icing on the cake. I would recommend that you learn as much as you can...

Please forgive me if I'm belaboring things you already know, but you should be able to get a head start by working up your waterfowl load with hard lead shot of similar size, and it would save cost. When you think you've found the load, then fire a few patterns of the Nice Shot for verification...

When done correctly/safely, you do actually gain more energy out of given powder charge. In the four single- vs. double-ball loads that Herb presented data for, the muzzle energy increases ranged from 17%-29%. He worked up a double-ball .40 hunting load so a friend could meet a...

I got one that came set up for the larger (16g?) cartridges but included a spacer to use underneath a regular (12g?) cartridge. You might try making a spacer. You also might try some bicycle shops to see if the CO2 cartridges for tire-inflators are any cheaper. Regards, Joel

For what it's worth, I have never found the need for a prop behind the flint. This is using leather for a pad. Until the flint too short to hold stably, I just set the edge to be a hammer-stall's thickness off the face and make sure the top jaw is sufficiently snug and I have never had any...

Some of us use a 2-petal rather than a 4-petal shotcup, in part because it's simpler. The shape is a rectangle with a width of 1/2 the bore's circumference, and the material can be HEAVY paper or light card-stock such as old business cards, phone-book covers, or such. Fold one around the end...

Rupert shot shouldn't have a tail but a dimple instead. This is more what's often called "drip shot". Rupert's method relied on two things that set it apart from just dripping lead into water: 1 - Glowing coals in the dripper/collander/whatchacallit to keep it and the the lead being poured...

Per Bill Knight: I vaguely recall him suggesting elsewhere that 130F would be a suggested safe maximum storage temperature, but I cannot locate that source, and might be mistaken. Regards, Joel

You use more than one q/s card. How many depends on the condition of your bore(s), the fit of the cards (somewhat larger than bore diameter is necessary - mine are .020-.030" larger, depending on source or punch used) and your loads. Some folks have reported excellent results using only 2...

Some folks have found that lube-saturated cushion wads, especially the 1/2" fiber wads, can negatively affect the patterns. Note that this is for the wads, lube, lubing technique, and loads as THEY do it - other folks note no problem. Anyway, if this happens to you and squeezing out the excess...

Another way of muting the shine is to use something like Johnson's paste wax. Apply it with your fingers, add more fingerprints to smoother sections, then DO NOT buff it. Regards, Joel