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I look forward to some pictures.

I use a 45/70 casing chucked up in my drill press to cut out 20 wads in a series (for my .45's). When the casing is full I stick a nail down the primer hole and push them out. The rotating casing cuts nice and clean through my felt.

What bothers me is that around here in NC guys go out during muzzle loading season with in-line rifles that are 209 primed, scoped, Triple 7 pellet charged, copper clad bullet in a sabot, and consider themselves muzzle loading enthusiasts and hunters. I read where some of the modern inline...

That is and interesting pistol. I look forward to seeing what it is. :hmm:

I use #11's.

Hi Carl - Yes I agree with your statement. If I was trying to join a Traditional ML club I am well aware that non of my T/C so called "traditional" rifles would not pass muster there (blued or stainless).

I am using Crisco for my Duro-Felt wads in my revolvers. Seems to be working as well as the T/C Bore Butter I used prior.

I don't care what a purist might think. I like SS black powder guns and I think this Silver Elite is beautiful. The Grey Hawk is fine on my book.

Somewhere I thought we had a thread estimating T/C YOM based on serial numbers. I can't find it using the search function so I thought I'd ask you guys to see if you remember it. :hmm:

I only use CCI's. I haven't had any problems so far.

I've been using Crisco for my percussion revolver wad. They seem to work OK. The OO idea sound intriguing to me for use in my percussion rifles. But wouldn't there be some contamination of the powder? Just how wet do the patches need to be for good lubrication I wonder? I'm using WW pillow...

What do you think the minimum load is? You might not get ignition if you decrease the load too much I'd think.

I didn't know these even existed! The article mentions gas cutting on the original cylinder. I didn't know that was possible with BP. [url] http://www.classicballistx.com/our_cylinder.html[/url]

Well...I have both And I cannot see how they are "identical" at all. The grip frame and the barrel are likely identical, and the trigger internals are Old Model design. Everything else is unique.

You can download the manual from the T/C website too. :thumbsup:

I am using wads cut from DuroFelt and lubed with Crisco. They work fine.

I have a "New to me T/c Hawken" too. I haven't shot mine yet though. I have done the "no powder" loading too, with another rifle. So far my rods have stayed in one piece and I haven't yet cross pinned mine.

This is a good bit (no pun intended but there it is nonetheless) of information that I will put away for future use! :hmm:

A lot of times I just use a jag and patch with the hot water. I am beginning to think I don't really need to use the brush to often. Still, one swipe up and down the bore will clean most anything left in the groove corners.

I run hot water down the bore and use a bronze brush to wipe it clean. Then I use a toothbrush to get rid of the fouling on the external surfaces while rinsing with hot water. Next, I use a jag and patch to clean the cylinder in hot water after removing the nipples. Use the toothbrush to clean...