Liam Jarvis
32 Cal.
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2014
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I have a ZOLI 8ga percussion single, its marked 5 1/2 drams and 2 oz. Any idea what would be a good starting point to load this gun with pyrodex RS ,Please.
Britsmoothy said:Hi....use a 12g shot shell and tip 2oz of shot in it. Mark the case and cut it down to that length.
You can now use the same measure for your powder.
You may find a little less powder will give you a better pattern though.
Say like putting a line where 1&3/4oz of shot measures to and use that line for the powder.
Good gun by the way :thumbsup:
B.
I will try it without the nittro card,see how it patterns with the 2 oz Lead BBs. I have got the heat reforming of 10GA wads worked out, and i used Ballistic pattern drivers for the lead loads.Britsmoothy said:Try omitting the nitro card.....not needed in my experience! They usually make loading much more difficult.
What was wrong with the Goex?
B.
Lathe oil...as in mineral based water soluble oil?vallance said:Yes i used a 50 to 50 saddle soap and lathe oil lube its sticky when it dries but soaks in to the felt nice but not unpleasant to handle at all. Barrel fouling with the BP was tougher to move . i am a little cautious about too much lube in this or any shotgun.
vallance said:It is water soluble but not sure if it is mineral based cooltool light, lathe and mill coolant oil.
Will that cause fouling to be worse.? Reason i used this is if you use oil vegitable or otherwise on lathes / mills they smoke like crazy its not a coolant as such , where as this stuff lubes without any smoking, so guessed it would not make carbon deposits as easily while lubing.
That is interesting thank you, i will try the olive oil, it sounds ideal and i can not imagine it being unpleasant and too sticky.Britsmoothy said:vallance said:It is water soluble but not sure if it is mineral based cooltool light, lathe and mill coolant oil.
Will that cause fouling to be worse.? Reason i used this is if you use oil vegitable or otherwise on lathes / mills they smoke like crazy its not a coolant as such , where as this stuff lubes without any smoking, so guessed it would not make carbon deposits as easily while lubing.
All I know is this...mineral based oils create a tar like substance with blackpowder. Veg oil holds the deposits in suspension and so no gumming develops.
The mineral oiled gum then resists the water best used to clean the gun with. Water is needed to dissolve the salts in the residue, the more the better. Veg oil especially olive gives way to the water readily especially hot water. The smoking does not matter or any cooling ability for that matter.
I have made lube from beeswax and olive oil, beef fat and olive oil and my least favourite, candle wax and olive oil. Or just straight olive oil soaked fibre wads. I never ever get a fouling issue and cleaning is very easy...ten minutes at most. I have even stored a gun charged minus shot for months bore/s just swabbed in olive oil an occasional check and no rust.
Another thing on patterns, It could be the 2f was ramming the wad/s into the rear of the emerging shot column, a syndrome often mis understood but has been proven on the pattern board many times by resembling a dough nut pattern!
Black powder creates huge amounts of gas that likes to escape all at once in a rush! A faster or smaller granulation often helps It is interesting you found better results with the pyro....a3fff equivalent!
B :thumbsup:
Well i did it by volume of black and pyrodex, it works out at about 145 grains, so the slightly under charge you recommend as worked, i am happy with the pyrodex performance, if i can get the BP going as well i will be happy.Grenadier1758 said:There's 27.34375 grains to a dram. Your 5.5 dram load comes to a little over 150 grains of powder. You might find an effective load with a bit less powder.
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