Another Balistol question

[user 34300]

I use Ballistol to make moose milk and for making dry patches. I have way to buy water soluble oil in my area other than ballistol. I do not use it as a preservative or general lube. As a general lube and light oil it has no advantage over other options. I am skittish or soaking my stock or leather goods with mineral oil. I also find the smell to be obnoxious.

For general lube I like ATF. Sometimes I melt in a little lanolin. IF you add a little solvent to that you have ed's red which is an excellent bore cleaner for modern guns.

For a long term more preservative I like fluid film or LPS-3. I could not find LPS-3 for years. I found some at a pilot's store at an airport. Apparently they use it on airplanes.

 

[MtHoot]

Does Balistol provide a degree of rust protection, or not?

The reason I ask is I've been cleaning my Kibler Colonial Rifle with moose milk, followed by a light coat of uncut Balistol on all metal surfaces before putting it up. This last time it was stored in its case (climate controlled area) for nine months. When I finally got around to taking it to the range last week, it came out of its case looking exactly as it did when I put it up. The bore was shiny, and there was no rust or discoloration anywhere. Better yet, it shot lights out.

Now, the Balistol label says it is a rust inhibitor, but folks here say it's not. All I know is it protected my rifle for nine months. Maybe being cased had something to do with it not evaporating and allowing oxidation. I don’t know.

What's been y'all's experience with Balistol and rust?

Wow, I knew this was heading into a discussion…but….best advice ever is do what works for you. Don’t “store” your guns for long periods without a rainy day check up. Quality firearms are an investment, get in the habit of protecting your investments with a few hours of simple maintenance monthly. Simple as that. Just saying

 

[Nav]

I pretty much use my own recipe of Ed’s Red with ATF, Kroil instead of the oil, lanolin, acetone, and kerosene. The ATF and acetone are what clean so well. I use Sweets for copper fouling but only if it gets dumb.

I have boxes and boxes of stuff I’ve tried. Very few wonder products, and nothing that replaces elbow grease when it comes to making metal clean.

 

[MtHoot]

There is NO magic "rust inhibitor" beyond full cosmoline and vacuum packing.

Inhibiting rust with firearms is all about proper care in each individuals environment. There are many products that will help you, but nothing will guarantee no rust with neglect.
Ballistol is a good product, I use it, but not for long term/off season storage. There are probably 100 or more "rust" studies available with maybe 10 that are reliable out there. Where I live here in Minn with our goofy weather changes, Ballistol is on the short list for when I need a few weeks or a month.
I care for my investments on a regular basis, knowing there is no magic pill.

My thoughts exactly

 

[Nav]

The ChiComs vacuum pack their guns in straight fish oil. Seems to work exactly like cosmoline.

 

[RATROD56]

Ballistol is "Water Soluble Oil"....Understand?

Napa soluble oil is cheaper,...without the stink for moose milk, cleaning and patch lube.

Use actual Oil for storage. CLP BreakFree works nicely,.

Ballistol does stink, that's for sure

 

[BigAl52]

 

[GR50036]

Ballistol has worked very well for me with my Milsurps and Blackpowder, but climate control is more important than what gun oil you use.

 

[FLTaft1948]

There may be better stuff out there, but I've been using Balistol for about 6 years, both diluted for cleaning and straight up for rust protection. I am well satisfied with it and see no reason to change what works for me.
I also started using RIG in the early 1960's (I still use the same RIG saturated wipe down cloth that I made in 1964 ... and yes I'm an old fart). At some point, back in the dark ages of the '60s, the company that made RIG stopped producing it. When it came back on the market under a different company (Birchwood Casey??), it wasn't as good. Have they regained the fine performance of the original? I hope so.

 

[deerstalkert]

Iron needs 50% humidity to rust, steel 80%. control this and coat with any oil, grease, or fat and you are good to go.

 

[OldMaineWoodsman]

I tried Ballistol and did not care for it on firearms work. I put the can in my garage and use it as a household, vehicle alternative to WD-40.

As to WD-40, when I became the Curator of Arms and Armor at a National Museum, I removed all of the WD-40 that was in the artifact maintenance cabinet and turned it over to our vehicle and aircraft Restoration section. I then replaced it with Break-Free and Ren Wax.

As to cases - soft cases, hard cases, leather or canvas and leather presentation cases were never intended for long-term storage. Climate control makes no difference. At some point, they will attract moisture and over time, the materials within the presentation cases will have a chemical reaction with the steel in the barrels or frame or receiver or both.

This was one reason the old-fashioned leg-o-mutton hard cases came with a sleeve to place over the barrels/forearm and the stock and receiver group before placing them in the main case.

 

[Trigger]

I run patches of ballistol till they come out clean before storing it. It seems to grab the rest of anything left in there..

during the season I clean it all out with sink hot soapy water etc you know... during the season I don't use it don't need it.

I kinda like the cheap dish soap it bubbles less?

And yea I went with the permatex for anti size.

 

[George Andrix01]

I find Ballistol to be very versatile. I have even put it in my ears prior to going to have them flushed out.

 

[Trigger]

used to use clp break free for especially my hawken. back in high school I hung it on my wall..

I just cleaned it before use never had a problem.

switched to ballistol about a couple years ago. But I'm using them so there is a difference. Long term I dunno?

Forgotten hung on the wall for years no rust bran new looking clp

 

[ETipp]

Does Balistol provide a degree of rust protection, or not?

The reason I ask is I've been cleaning my Kibler Colonial Rifle with moose milk, followed by a light coat of uncut Balistol on all metal surfaces before putting it up. This last time it was stored in its case (climate controlled area) for nine months. When I finally got around to taking it to the range last week, it came out of its case looking exactly as it did when I put it up. The bore was shiny, and there was no rust or discoloration anywhere. Better yet, it shot lights out.

Now, the Balistol label says it is a rust inhibitor, but folks here say it's not. All I know is it protected my rifle for nine months. Maybe being cased had something to do with it not evaporating and allowing oxidation. I don’t know.

What's been y'all's experience with Balistol and rust?

Some interesting information and history on Ballistol.


http://www.thegunmag.com/ballistol-...ut causing rust leaving the Ballistol behind.

 

[Sam squanch]

One thing Ballistol is guaranteed to do- the smell keeps my wife and her friends the hell out of my shop.

 

[Billy Boy]

Iron needs 50% humidity to rust, steel 80%. control this and coat with any oil, grease, or fat and you are good to go.

Some fats have salt in them, apply only to the frying pan

 

[Rifleman1776]

I haven't real the other responses. But, I'm sure, some will claim it is a wonder of the world. I am on the other side. I consider it wuthluss junk and will not use anymore. There are plenty other products that will do what you want better.

 

[GAHUNTER60]

Can somebody please answer this question for my: When I clean my flinter, I always run patches until they come out clean, then coat the inside of the barrel with a final coat of Ballistol. This is what I did on Tuesday, and my patches were nearly spotless at the end.

However, I came back into the shop the shop two days after cleaning the rifle and decided to run some dry patches down the barrel. What I got shocked me! The first patch came out almost as dark as a patch from a just fired barrel (well, maybe not That dark, but pretty dark, none the less).

What's going on here? Where was that residue hiding?

 

[Sam squanch]

I think the Ballistol was still dissolving dirt and crud in the bore. Just doing its job. I placed an old rusty door lock in a pan of Ballistol to clean it and free it up. The leftover Ballistol was almost black in color, did a great job on dissolving the old grime in the lock.