Brass Ram Rods

[Swampman]

Wouldn't it be better to use someting authentic? I can understand using plastic, fiberglass, or brass ramrods on T/Cs or other mass produced rifles.

 

[roundball]

The thread is about brass ramrods...

 

[lonedave]

Just a thought. How about trying a little piece of heat shrink tubing or thin rubber tubing on the end of the spring? You'd probably only need about 1/8" - 3/16". Just enough to give you a little friction.

Dave

 

[steelerzzz]

I have a solid brass rod from October Country that I had made so that with a cleaning/loading jag it is flush with the end of the barrel on my GPR and A&H mountain rifle.They put an"antiqued finish" on it..it blends in perfectly with the brown finish on these guns. The little extra weight actually helps to hold steadier for offhand shooting. The brass rods look great,and are pretty much indestructable!

 

[roundball]

I have a solid brass rod from October Country that I had made so that with a cleaning/loading jag it is flush with the end of the barrel on my GPR and A&H mountain rifle.They put an"antiqued finish" on it..it blends in perfectly with the brown finish on these guns. The little extra weight actually helps to hold steadier for offhand shooting. The brass rods look great,and are pretty much indestructable!

He does a great job...I assume on yours he put his normal 1.25" knurled/crosshatch finish on the muzzle end for a non-slip grip.
And no question about the strength and the benefits of the extra weight...I prefer them over everything else.

The 'antique finish' sounds interesting...do you know what he used for the 'antique finish'?

Is it some sort of permanent electroplating, transfer thing...or maybe just a coating like Birchwood Casey's Brass Black?

Does it scrape off / rub off as the rod slides back and forth through the thimbles?

 

[Swampman]

Powder fouling provideds a great antique finish.

 

[ronrryan]

You can drill and tap a small shallow hole in the muzzle end of the underrib and set in a small screw. This is not noticeable, but exerts pressure on the rod to retain it in place. I have done this with a steel replacement rod, worked fine (on a short barrel)

 

[steelerzzz]

The antique finish looks to be a type of coating...and it does scrape off a little, but it still has a real nice "old weathered patina" look to it!

 

[roundball]

I bet he uses a commercial product like Birchwood Casey's Brass Black and I have a new bottle of it that I've never opened...I've gradually accumulated spare brass ramrods I don't use so I'll clean one with acetone and treat it with Brass Black...see how it goes on, how durable it is, etc...if it darkens things significantly, I might treat the rod I use for turkey hunting to cut down the shine.
Another important test will be how easy it is to remove if I don't like it

 

[longcruise]

You could loosen the screws that hold the pipes and turn them a little bit

That's an interesting approach. I'll take a look at the rifle, but if memory is serving, the thimbles are going to want to fall into place with the underrib.

 

[longcruise]

If you know some one with a lathe simple putting a slight undecut or grove in the rod will gives the spring a pllace to grip the rod. If no lathe a file and some time spent could do the same thing.

Dang, another interesting idea. I think that might work if the spring has the oomph to hold the rod. Could always make a new spring too, I guess.

 

[longcruise]

Just a thought. How about trying a little piece of heat shrink tubing or thin rubber tubing on the end of the spring? You'd probably only need about 1/8" - 3/16". Just enough to give you a little friction.

Another great idea. Is there no limit to the imaginations of our forum members.

 

[longcruise]

You can drill and tap a small shallow hole in the muzzle end of the underrib and set in a small screw. This is not noticeable, but exerts pressure on the rod to retain it in place. I have done this with a steel replacement rod, worked fine (on a short barrel)

Forum member imagination scores again

 

[bucktales]

Powder fouling provideds a great antique finish.

I'll agree with that.
A few range sessions darkened up my brass rods.

 

[Many Klatch]

I had to make a solid brass ramrod for a .62 rifle that I used to own. The ramrod guides were too small for a caliber that size and I kept breaking ramrods while trying to load it. I finally got fed up and went with a brass rod. Then I found out that the gun that was already pretty heavy now was too heavy to hold.

I got busy with files and carved off a lot of the brass between the ramrod guides. I filed it to octagon and took off quite a bit of weight. I left the ramrod full sized where it rested in the guides and the ramrod stayed put when I fired the beast.

It made for an odd looking ramrod. I don't know that I ever saw anything like it anywhere else, but it did take off "some" weight.

Many Klatch

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

If I was to make a brass ramrod, I wouldn't carry it on the rifle (weight); instead just use it as a range rod. But, that's just my opinion.

FWIW, anyone with hand tools can easily make a HOLLOW and 2-LAYERED (at the ends) or laminated brass ramrod of any length like this one shown below.

You'll get both strength and light weight :thumbsup: ! Plus looks too, as it looks SHARP on my brass-framed original Mowrey.

See this post here.

 

[blackpowder shooter]

I wrap loose ramrods with artificial sinew to keep it tight against the barrel channel

 

[Fishhog]

I bet he uses a commercial product like Birchwood Casey's Brass Black and I have a new bottle of it that I've never opened...I've gradually accumulated spare brass ramrods I don't use so I'll clean one with acetone and treat it with Brass Black...see how it goes on, how durable it is, etc...if it darkens things significantly, I might treat the rod I use for turkey hunting to cut down the shine.
Another important test will be how easy it is to remove if I don't like it

Bill,shoot a heavy coat of Easy Off original formula on the rod let it dry wash it off reapply if needed.I have done a complete TC with it and gives a great antiqued look.Got the idea from site about antique fakery..Funny only part of my TC that wouldn't take well was the wedge pin might have been a harder alloy or something but the all brass works well with it.Here are pics of the look you will get on these few parts.Compare the brass tacks which are with a mild color from the blackpowder residue..Ray

 

[roundball]

Easy Off oven cleaner ??

 

[sniper68]

The blue can( for cold surfaces), not the yellow one.
Here are some time tested formulas.... http://www.sciencecompany.com/patinas/patinaformulas.htm#1