Brass Ram Rods

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If you want it tight, pinch one end of the thimble
If you want it light, use hollow brass tube.
If you want it antiqued, don't polish it.
All 18 of my long guns and 6 pistols have brass ramrods, wouldn't have anything else.
 
If you want it light, use hollow brass tube.

Brett's method of arriving at light looks pretty good, but I'd like to find a source of 3/8" OD hollow brass with a wall thick enough to hold up as is. Any ideas on where that can be found.
 
marmotslayer said:
... but I'd like to find a source of 3/8" OD hollow brass with a wall thick enough to hold up as is. Any ideas on where that can be found.

FWIW, McMaster-Carr has 6' lengths of 3/8" OB brass tubing with a ~1/16th (they state 0.065") thick wall. Item #8950K593, $22 each, or $14.50 for a 36" piece.

I've always been able to source metals at much better prices at local industrial supply houses. Example, McM-Carr charges > $18 for one 6' length of brass rod, but my local source sold me three 4' pieces of absolutely straight brass rod of 3/8" for $18 total.
 
marmotslayer said:
If you want it light, use hollow brass tube.

Brett's method of arriving at light looks pretty good, but I'd like to find a source of 3/8" OD hollow brass with a wall thick enough to hold up as is. Any ideas on where that can be found.

I also got my tubular brass rods made at October Country...they have .060" walls and are as stiff and strong as you'd want...no flexing, etc.
OC's # is on their website...speak to owner 'John'
 
roundball said:
Easy Off oven cleaner ??
Yep,the original heavy duty stuff..I was suprised on how well it worked .Mine is the yellow can for cold or warm surfaces.Ray
 
roundball said:
I also got my tubular brass rods made at October Country...they have .060" walls and are as stiff and strong as you'd want...no flexing, etc.
FYI for all ... Oct Country was limited to rods no longer than 36", that's why I had to go the homemade route :thumbsup: . I have one of their rods for my ... err, shorter barreled arm.
 
I've got a 3/8"OD brass rod that is 74"long, made it for a 72" barreled new england fowler. The darn thing weighs more than some whole guns and whips around like a fly fishing rod. Had to make it in 2 pieces just to transport it. :youcrazy:
Mark
 
Flint62Smoothie said:
FYI for all ... Oct Country was limited to rods no longer than 36", that's why I had to go the homemade route
I didn't know that...you may be on the verge of launching a whole new cottage industry.
I'm going to be looking for some in the 39-40" range underbarrel rods, as well as a couple longer range rods...going to have to call OC and see if they can find a source for longer than normal lengths of good quality tubular brass.
 
roundball said:
I didn't know that...you may be on the verge of launching a whole new cottage industry. I'm going to be looking for some in the 39-40" range underbarrel rods, as well as a couple longer range rods...
I might just make you some! As I'm setting up a lathe, so I could do any custom end needed. And I called my local metal place and they have 16th of an inch wall thickness brass in 1/2" diameter on hand and are checking on the 3/8". I might need to buy a run, so I'll offer them up for sale. Stay tuned ...
 
Flint62Smoothie said:
roundball said:
I didn't know that...you may be on the verge of launching a whole new cottage industry. I'm going to be looking for some in the 39-40" range underbarrel rods, as well as a couple longer range rods...
I might just make you some! As I'm setting up a lathe, so I could do any custom end needed. And I called my local metal place and they have 16th of an inch wall thickness brass in 1/2" diameter on hand and are checking on the 3/8". I might need to buy a run, so I'll offer them up for sale. Stay tuned ...

Will do...and FYI:

OC epoxies & pins their ends and when he's done sanding/buffing the pin locations you have to hold it up to the light just right to even see them.
Using his lathe he also spins a 1.5" cross-hatch knurled area on the muzzle end for a non-slip grip area
 
Papa said:
I've got a 3/8"OD brass rod that is 74"long, made it for a 72" barreled new england fowler. The darn thing weighs more than some whole guns and whips around like a fly fishing rod. Had to make it in 2 pieces just to transport it. :youcrazy:
Mark

5/16" steel or stainless steel is all that is needed. Its stiffer than brass and lighter since its smaller diameter.
A smooth steel rod is no more likely to hurt the barrel than a brass one is if used properly.
Brass threads tend to break.
You can get 72" 303-304 stainless steel rod from MSC.

Dan
 
Dan,
I realize now that there are a ot of products that are both lighter and stiffer than brass but at the time it seemed like the thing to do. Some of us need to be hit with a 2X4 to get our attention. If you think the rod is a pain to transport try the gun, it's 7'4" overall.
Mark
 
Dan,
I have been lucky regarding getting rod material. There is a scrap metal yard here that always seems to have a supply of various diameter brass, aluminum etc. Price is right, they sell it for scrap weight.
Marki
 
Following the post by Flint62smoothie, I made a brass tubing rod in less than 30 minutes last night. Got a 36" section of 3/8" (longest Ace Hardware had) with wall th. of .029. Used a short section of 5/16 tubing for the insert (about 4") at each end. Used some paste solder, slipped the insert into the end, slipped a standard threaded ramrod tip over the end of the insert and sweated it together. Also pinned it just in case. Put a 10-32 tip on one end and an 8-32 tip on the other. Each tip is about 1.5" long and using a long cleaning jag, this rod reaches the breech plug on all of my rifles up to 39" barrels. Cost of the brass tubing sections was about $15 plus rr tips. I also used BC Super Blue to give the rod a nice polished black color.
 
Just be sure that the threaded shanks for those jags is made of steel, and not brass. The brass will wear out and simply break off one day, without warning, and usually down your barrel. I have not suffered the same problem with steel threaded shanks. MY gunsmith used to do a lively business at the club by removing stuck jags, and replacing the brass screws with steel ones. Later, the jags began showing up with the merchants with the steel threads, and I only now rarely find a jag with brass threads for the 10/32, or 8//32 fittings.

:thumbsup:
 
I made a couple of Brass Ramrods for my T/C Hawken out of the 260 Alloy Brass 3/8 .065 wall Tubing from MSC. That 260 Alloy is some tuff stuf. I didn't think I would ever get the ends of that rod drilled and tapped. I drilled and tapped each end for 5/16-24UN-2B thds. Then I made ends like original T/C ramrod ends and attached them with 5/16 24 studs. That tubing is $26.95 for 72" plus shipping.
 
Robert58 said:
I made a couple of Brass Ramrods for my T/C Hawken out of the 260 Alloy Brass 3/8 .065 wall Tubing from MSC. That 260 Alloy is some tuff stuf. I didn't think I would ever get the ends of that rod drilled and tapped. I drilled and tapped each end for 5/16-24UN-2B thds. Then I made ends like original T/C ramrod ends and attached them with 5/16 24 studs. That tubing is $26.95 for 72" plus shipping.

Are you able to order it in lengths closer to actual needs?
A 72" piece of tubing leaves a lot of waste if you only need a 39" or 42" length
 

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