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Cabelas (Pedersoli) SxS Shotguns

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MikeC

45 Cal.
Joined
Feb 15, 2005
Messages
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I've been contemplationg a smoothbore lately and although in my heart I would like a flintlock fowler or smoothbore a SxS caplock shotgun with interchangable chokes would be hundreds of times more useful to me.

I was thinking of a 10 gauge, might as well get the biggest possible since I would be using it for turkey and the beauty of a front loader is I can also download for upland hunting.

Anyone own or have shot one of these shotguns, would like to hear some opinions.

Thanks...Mike
 
Just got the 12 guage.Haven't even shot it yet but it is a beautiful gun.Hope to run some shot through it next week.
 
I have owned a Pedersoli 10g fowling doulble with fixed chokes and their short barrelled 12 with sights (double). Shot pretty much everything with them except turkeys, walked up woodcock is fun. For me there was limitations I was not happy with. The 10g was to heavy really for generall hunting, it fitted me ok mind but the barrels had not been constructed very well in as much that the joints were not sealed and so would collect fluids from cleaning and then discharge rusting slime substance every where. I tried sealing with lead but then it just bubbled out of the beads so I left it vented wich seamed better but it just seemed so poor for such a smart gun generally :hmm: The 12 was fine except the barrels in my opinion where to short and I had to alter the stock to get me connecting with it. I remember shooting decoyed wood pigeon with it and running out of cards I switched to screwed up news paper and no over shot card ( kept the barrells pointing up :grin: ). They were coming in so fast the barrels got quite hot- a first on a M/L for me. We use to shoot crows on a open air pig unit, we would upturn an arc and drape cammo netting etc. We got them crows coming so close my freind said the crow was dissapering in the smoke :grin: It shot ball ok to 50yds. It was pretty good with a glass marbell wrapped in canvass patches to take the slack up, on a snifter of powder it would of been ok for small game--- can you shoot the turkey with a ball? It wouldn,t need to be going to fast :hmm: The locks on the 12 were poor - very difficult to improve on. The 12 did not have the prob I had with my 10ga. Good luck.
 
I have had a Pedersoli 12 ga dbl for quite a few years. It has interchangeable chokes. I have harvested one tom turkey and many ducks and a few pheasants with it. I should use it more as Ive always been happy with it.
 
How long ago did you own your guns. Just wondering if it was a long time ago and things as they do have improved.

Mike
 
i called an emailed cabelas, they said that if there was not proper satisfaction with the sxs, that you could ship it back to exchange it without issue. they even said if the barrels did not point together they would take it back and give you a new gun, as long as you dont try to fix it yourself.
i have always been happy with cabelas, and have spent a fortune there. they always do me right :thumbsup:
 
I've got a 12 ga sxs by pedersoli , it was made in 1980 and only has cylinder bores but I wouldn't want to part with it . It only cost me 250 bucks I still haven't tried a ball load yet . I just havent
run across ant .690 dia balls yet , I've used many different sizes of shot and they all seemed to work good.I realy like the way it handles.
 
I have a SXS 12 Pedersoli. It's about 5 years old. I'd not expect to find another of the same quality for that price. The wood to metal is fine. The trigger for the left barrel is heavier than I'd like, but there is a reason for that.

Mine has interchangable chokes. I have them both choked modified. The left barrel shoots its pattern a tad lower than the right barrel for center of pattern, but the doves don't seem to figure it out.

Dan
 
I have an literally brand new (2 or so month old) pedersoli fixed choked (mod and cyl) barrel gun bought from dixie.

The gun is made fine for what you are paying. My mod barrel and trigger shoot and pull very nicely.

My cyl bore barrel shoots right and the trigger is horrid to pull on. I did a bit of trigger work to it and plan on working on it more hwen I get home as my dad is part gunsmith lol. Right now the cyl bore hammer falls nice however these 35% loads at 40 yards...heck 35% loads at TWENTY FIVE yards seem to elude me! going to try number 6's when I get home.

Mine is browned not blued and I did have a mark on the barrel before it was ever shot. Not a big deal really.

For turkeys I was told to stay away from the choked pedersoli gun by quite a few bp shotgunners. Which I dont know in hindsight being that good of an idea. there reasoning is seating wads through a choke or having to unscrew the choke to seat wads. The other way is felt wads they will compress and expand again.

I'm no expert at this, these are just things passed along to me, some on here, many on other sites, or through endless phone calls to people and buisness and surfing the net on black powder shotguns.

They are fun, they are addicting, without question! Ole 3 toe here I come.........
 
I have one of these in 10 ga. w/ the choke tubes. Purchased it new probably 5 years ago. Price back then was about a 1/3 less than what they are asking for them now. Got the 10 for the same reasons you mentioned, you adjust the load down to cover whatever shooting you want. I have taken turkey (example below from last season), grouse and dove with this gun. Only drawback with the 10 ga., it is heavy but not unmanageable. Shooting, (my experience anyway) it gives decent patterns out to 35 yards. I found that reducing the powder charge to about 80% of maximum yields the best patterns. Oh yeah, this gun does not care for Pyrodex, found that out early on. Get a lot of mis-fires with substitute powders. Use regular black powder in 2F and she goes off every time.
turkey1.jpg
 
Jr,

The pydrodex comment is an interesting one. I was thinking the past couple of missfires were from fowling, or the cold. Crack a 2nd cap and she'd roar to life. Only once did I have to add powder. Thats after starting with blowing a cap and or a cap and fowling shot of 20 grains. I'm also using pyrodex. I'll have to give some ff a try when I get back to Mn.
 
I have had the Cabelas Pedersolis in 10, 12 and 20 gauge. If forced to settle on just one, it would probably be the 20 -- light and lively in the hands like a good double should be, and the one I had (cylinder and modified) shot as tight as the ones with interchangeable chokes, at least for me. The guns with the interchangeable chokes are heavier in the muzzle to accommodate the threads, and to me, they handle poorly as a result, not to mention being historically incorrect. I just know after having had a 10 and a 12 with the screw-in chokes that it was a revelation to go back to a lighter, cylinder-bored double, which also handles patched round balls well. My three centavos ...
 
MikeC, really sorry, I only just noticed your question :redface: I recently traded the 10g but I bought it S/H. The 12 I bought around three years ago new, it was ok but the locks were a bit crude thats all. In Britain there aint much choice and so you feel you have to try anything,,,, I,m still looking even after owning the pedersolis!
 
Dear JR, I have had probs with pyrodex as well and I found that by opening the nipples a tiny tiny amount it would become 100%--- Right until i tried some new pyro select and ignition became poor again :cursing: But of all the cap locks I have viewed the Pedersolis do seem to have really tight nipple holes!!!! Don,t ask how much I opened them up by as I can not remember. I do remember the twist bit was tiny and you would have to look hard to tell the differance!
Nice hunting :hatsoff:
 
Got to use the 12 Pedersoli yesterday.Seemed to shoot very well good pattern.Did have one misfire.I thought it was a bad cap because it didn't sound right,but after reading the forum this am maybe it was because I was using 777.
 
I have the Pedersoli 12 Gauge SxS (Cyl/Cyl) and the 12 Gauge Coach gun. Shooting .69 round ball from that thing is more fun than packing your mother-in-law's bags after a 2 week visit! Also have an old Petia 12.

I solved my ignition problems along with a few more by going to Dixie and replacing the #11 cap nipples with nipples that take Musket Caps.

Boy those High Hats go off! ... And they're real easy to put on in the cold even with gloves on, or take off the loaded barrel to reload the spent one.

I carry a musket cap belt pouch like the re-enacters wear with about twenty five caps in it. I never fired more than ten or so, but this way if I drop one during a reload, I can just reach for another one. (Forget about finding a musket cap in thick under growth).
 
Finding a musket cap in thick grass can be done easily, if you put the place where the cap fell between your and the sun. Then get down close to the ground, so that you are looking at the ground where the cap fell at a low angle to the sun, and look for the light glinting off the cap towards you. Think of the poor guy who has to mow that area. If his blade hits that cap, it not only is going to go off, but it is going to send shrapnel all over the place. Find the cap if possible.

You don't need musket caps on a shotgun. If you will simply take an empty gun out into the night, or in a closed dark garage, for instance, and fire both the musket cap and a #11 cap off a nipple, you will find that both send about as much flame out the muzzle of the gun.

The ignition problem you were having with the standard percussion caps is most likely related to the fact that the nipple is worn, or peened over, because the hammer does not strike the nipple square to the face. The new nipples and musket caps will work well for a time, but then you will get a misfire, UNLESS you check the contact between each nipple top and the hammer face, and grind away the high spots so that the hammer will act like a paper punch if you take a soft paper towel, fold it over once, and then put it over the nipple and release the hammer to fall. You should get a full circle almost " cut-out " of the towel on the edge of the top of the nipple. If you don't get a full, even circle, the hammer is not hitting square and you will need to remove the high spot.

When the hammer hits squarely on the nipple, the entire nipple takes the force of the hammer blow, and not just part of it. The nipples last longer, are much likely to begin to collapse and bulge outward just below the top, making caps difficult to seat completely. The main concern you should have with any percussion cap gun is the condition of the interior hole through the nipple. As the hot flame of the cap( standard or musket) fires through the constriction, the heat slowly anneals and then burn off some of the inside of the nipple, until the hole enlarges. Once the hole enlarges, groups open up, patterns strike lower, as velocities also drop. If you shoot regularly, its worth the small expense to put a new nipple in each barrel each year. Some nipples on some guns have lasted for years. I tend to be a bit " thrifty " myself. But if I were shooting every month in competition, You can be sure I would put new nipples in my gun each year, and more often depending on the load I am shooting, the cap I am using, the brand of nipple I chose, and how many rounds a year I am firing. I would recommend both the Uncle Mike's Hot Shot nipple, and the AmpCo Sure-Shot nipple for your use. But stop using the musket caps, unless you are using a substitute powder.
 
Rusty, can you post a picture of your musket cap pouch?

I've had ignition problems with my Pedersoli 12 sxs, but I'm using Pyrodex. I have some musket caps and nipples, but haven't had a chance to try them out yet. I'd like to use pyrodex just because it is easy to get (can buy at the local hardware store), and cheap compared to buying real powder and having it shipped (no one seems to carry it locally).
 
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