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CVA Mountain Rifle Misfiring

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Over thinking and then there is Under thinkinking


Over thinking has caused folks to to worry about the black powder sticking on the side of the bore and not going all the way down to the breech. Accordingly they used a long tube to send the powder down to the breech. The thinking stopped there Further thinking would have brought up the question of how much powder stuck on the inner side of the june? and even further thinking would have asked them selves wouldn't the seating of the patched ball have swept any powder stuck to the side of the bore all the way down to the breech
 
REMEMBER WE USE SOFT BRASS FOR OUR JAGS TO AVOID WEAR ON OUR RIFLING. WE MAY FORGET THAT THE RIFLING MAY BE WEARING DOWN OUR SOFT BRASS JAG WHICH WILL, IN TIME, AFFECT ITS EFFICINCY IN THE THE BETWEN SHOT WIPE.

TALK ABOUT NIT PICKING///


DUTCH SCHOULTZ
 
Buying replacement screws doesn't solve the real problem.. Neither does turning down a jag...Although I must say "buyer beware" when buying jags today, Many are not designed for traditional muzzleloaders.

I have also seen bolster screws that were too long and obstructed the nipple.... However the OP's problem is with a carbon wall between the nipple and the main charge. So the screw is irrelevant.

It is a cleaning or nipple problem.
 
It is a cleaning or nipple problem.[/quote]

Ya, and I was just stating that several of us do use the side screw as a clean out screw and if doing so I reminded that it was necessary to do it every time. so yes, :eek:ff but then I responded to your post :rotf:

So dang it Clyde go get ya some HEX head clean out screws and do it MY WAY! :blah:
 
azmntman said:
So dang it Clyde go get ya some HEX head clean out screws and do it MY WAY! :blah:

I thought about doing that about 30 years ago or so....But, then I realized it wasn't necessary.
If it was,.... CVA or one of the other European Muzzleloader companies would have installed a wing bolt... :wink:

Can't help but wonder how the percussion ignition system survived for over a 150 years without bolster screws..... :hmm:

But, you are right about being committed from the get-go if you plan to remove them, and keep never-seize or something on the threads....

Since I now tend to clean my gun in the field, removing the bolster screw or the nipple isn't very practical.
 
I have one of my rescues that I can't get the screw out of, but the others, I can. I have been taking it out now and then. I've not seen anything building up in the fire channel, when I do look, but it does make cleaning with the breech end in a bucket of water a bit easier...but I can see it not being a big issue. The one I can't get it out of shoots just fine, but the fact it's stuck just kind of bothers me....I'm considering grinding it off, flush and blueing the end just because....
 
azmntman said:
WING BOLTS........ :hmm: ....... :thumbsup: I will ask for em next time at Copper State Nuts n Bolts! :rotf:

I thought you'd like that idea..... :haha:
Then you could remove it in the field and pick and prime just like a flintlock. :haha:
 
That might be too small.
The only way to judge whether a change in your loading procedure was a plus or a minus is to look at the group produced after the change you made.


I can think of no other way to judge what you are doing.

Dutch Schoultz
 
Sorry to drop in to the conversation so late but I have a couple of random thoughts to pontificate. I have a couple of solid bolster rifles that have their ignition channels bored at an angle from the flash chamber below the nipple into the bore. In both cases I've found the depth that the nipple threads project into the flash cavity affect the ignition reliability. I find that the standard configuration of double Venturi US musket nipple provides constant ignition while the Ampco flat bottom style nipple can be intermittent . If I counterbore the Ampco things improve or if I substitute an Ampco US carbine nipple that is shorter by a couple of threads, again the is no issue. My thought is that if the nipple projects too far into the flash cavity, the it has the effect of localizing or dampening the ignition flame column thus weakening it and ad residual moisture you get a problem. I do believe that nipple length can be a contributing factor to misfires and there needs to be a atleast some open cavity in the flash chamber; and of course, the straighter the ignition channel the better. Any how, I always snap a cap after I wipe to clear the ignition channel.
 
old gunsmith said:
I do believe that nipple length can be a contributing factor to misfires and there needs to be a at least some open cavity in the flash chamber;

You are correct. I have observed the same thing on a few rifles..... :thumbsup:
 
I find that the standard configuration of double Venturi US musket nipple provides constant ignition while the Ampco flat bottom style nipple can be intermittent . If I counterbore the Ampco things improve

Of course, nipple length is critical. But, I disagree with your concept of counterboring the flash hole on Ampco, or other modern made nipples. The venturi system and tiny flash hole provides a much hotter flame into the charge at the breech resulting in more reliable ignition. And, that ain't my opinion. It was told to me by none other than Dan Pawlak, a propulsion fuels/systems expert and the inventor of Pyrodex. He designed what we call the 'hot shot' style of nipple to help overcome ignition problems with Pyrodex. Dan, RIP, was one of the finest people ever to grace the ml avocation, even if I do not care for Pyrodex.
 
Dutch, I may have exagerated. I still have to give a little force with my original patch. Range time is precious since ranges nearby charge by the hour (and they are mighty proud of that hour) and the others are 50+ miles away. This will be a slow process but I keep target records to see what changes. As always change only one parameter at a time.
 
I was trying to figure out why a wooden ram rod would give you tighter groups than a steel range rod.
Some folks like to pound the load a time or two which will flatten the face of the lead ball which affects its aerodynamic qualities..
Everything you do when load affects where the ball is going to land. Apparently this includes the makeup of the ramrod.

Dutch
 
Some dark night charge your flintlock pan as you would a loaded rifle without otherwise completing the load and fire it in the dark.
You will see that the flash created is much larger than what you'll see when doing the same thing in the daylight.

It is that flash that squirts down the ignition channelm and ignights the main charge.
Erroneously good folks when charging the pan will push the the flash powder up over the ignition hole to ensure a good connection.
What they are doing is blocking the flash and turning the whole procedure into what resembles a wick which will still ignite the main charge but in effect slows down the process . .
It is best to have NO powder in the ignition channel and to keep the powder clear of the touch hole so that flash can zip through and do its job.
I speak as a person who always covered the touch hole with powder til it was pointed out to me what I was doing had the reverse effect of what I had been intending.

Dutch
 
It occurs to me that when you no one responds to your posts that you are, in effect, talking to yourself and what U consider bits 'o wisdom are actually boring nonsense it's probably time to quit babbling for my own entertainment.

I think it would be best to limi myself to answering questions only and to stop volunteering thoughts and Ideas that occur to me.

I apologize for taking up so much space.

Dutch
 
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