CVA Mountain Rifle Misfiring

[rafterob]

When you say you lube with Ballistol, do you follow the "Dry lube" procedure, or are you straight lubing with ballistol? Ballistol can leave a weird waxy residue and what you describe in your clean out channel sounds like that to me.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Lots of good replies, I agree with most. But, sometimes guys over think and over complicate the process of loading and swabbing.
Fuggit the Ballistol. :barf:
The use of alcohol for cleaning and lubing have always puzzled me. Alcohol evaporates and absorbs moisture like crazy. After about two seconds of mixing up with other stuff it has changed it's character or is gone. H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) is similar as it loses it's potency quickly when exposed to air. Try different concoctions like Moose Milk or Moose Snot. When you swab, make sure your patch is only damp, not wet. Use an undersized jag, the cleaning action happens with withdrawl. Too large a jag will push crud down. Working up your loading routine takes time and isn't always easy. 90% of newcomers to this game end up in the nut house, only a few of us have survived. :wink:

 

[Maven]

All, If you're going to try the Friendship Speed Juice formula mentioned earlier, keep your mixture in a dark, preferably opaque container to prevent the peroxide from giving up it's oxygen and turning into water. (Keeping it reasonably cool helps too.) An empty plastic Pyrodex container:grin:works well for storage and is what I currently use.

 

[azmntman]

90% of newcomers to this game end up in the nut house, only a few of us have survived.

And a few of us escaped :metoo:

 

[fishmusic]

I use Dutch's dry patch method. This one was 6 parts water to one part Balistol and allowing the water to evaporate.

 

[fishmusic]

Hey Dutch. I think my issue is swab patch thickness and jag diameter. With one gun, my GPR, my usual swab method works fine. With this CVA it is a total disaster. I need to go back to Jo-Ann and find a thinner cotton fabric. I have honed one jag down to .460 and I can drop two cleaning patches with just the rod weight.

 

[Okie Hog]

When cleaning the rifle use a bristled pipe cleaner to clear the bolster of crud.

After loading the powder lean the rifle lock side down and give the stock a whack or two with your palm.

 

[fishmusic]

That is my standard cleaning method. I am somewhat anal about cleaning and drying. Oiled lightly with Barricade which is cleaned out with denatured alcohol before shooting. Thanks for your ideas. :thumbsup:

 

[fishmusic]

Got that idea going. Thanks for the ideas. :thumbsup:

 

[fishmusic]

Hey y'all, I have a whole slough of new ideas to try with this new rifle. Thanks for ideas that I probably would not have thought of. :hatsoff: to you all.

Other than this fouling issue I am pleased with the performance of the rifle. And I think it will be a great shooter.

 

[coloradoclyde]

All you have to do is clean your gun with M.A.P. solution after each shot...use 3-4 patches....barrel and bolster will be completely clean....only takes a minute.

I can tell when my gun is fouling hard...Sometimes I squirt a little M.A.P. solution down the barrel...if it runs out the nipple hole you know there is no carbon wall buildup....running a patch up and down the barrel multiple times will evaporate the solution due to the alcohol content....I use 90% isopropyl or denatured ethanol.
A Hot-Shot nipple will also help.

Sometimes, if the gun is fouling hard...or I go several shots without cleaning.....I will only clean the barrel half way down with the first patch....Then all the way to the bottom with a second patch.

 

[Rifleman1776]

took the clean out screw off

BTW, that 'clean out screw' ain't no clean out screw. :shake: It is a left over from the manufacturing process to drill through to the breech. No need to ever remove it. Those I have seen are soft steel, easy to bugger up. Think where you will be if you lose it, easy to do and hard to replace. For inspection, remove the nipple. In nearly 50 years, I don't believe I have ever removed one of those screws.

 

[Grenadier1758]

When you are done cleaning, store the Rifle muzzle down so any left over lubricant or bore protectant can drain out and not build up in the breech.

 

[Kansas Jake]

Me too, except I have only been shooting muzzleloaders since the mid 70's.

 

[Grenadier1758]

I removed the "clean out" screw a couple of times until I messed up the head of the one on my T/C "Hawken". They don't get removed any more and most of the time I am shooting a flintlock. I don't remove the touch hole liners either.

 

[necchi]

BTW, that 'clean out screw' ain't no clean out screw. :shake: It is a left over from the manufacturing process to drill through to the breech..

Only with the TC and Lyman/Investarms breech.

That's not true with the Spanish made drum breech,
it is a clean out screw and removing it for plunge/pump cleaning really helps.
I use a touch of anti-seize on those threads.

 

[Grenadier1758]

The clean out feature of CVA, Traditions and other drum and nipple breeches is a consequence of the manufacturing process. Since manufacturing is now long past, I guess we can say that now the screw at the end of the drum is a clean out screw.

 

[coloradoclyde]

took the clean out screw off

BTW, that 'clean out screw' ain't no clean out screw. :shake: It is a left over from the manufacturing process to drill through to the breech. No need to ever remove it. Those I have seen are soft steel, easy to bugger up. Think where you will be if you lose it, easy to do and hard to replace. For inspection, remove the nipple. In nearly 50 years, I don't believe I have ever removed one of those screws.

:thumbsup: .....Correct!....Removing the "clean out screw" only leads to more headaches....

 

[azmntman]

BTW, that 'clean out screw' ain't no clean out screw. :shake: It is a left over from the manufacturing process to drill through to the breech..

Only with the TC and Lyman/Investarms breech.

That's not true with the Spanish made drum breech,
it is a clean out screw and removing it for plunge/pump cleaning really helps.
I use a touch of anti-seize on those threads.

:metoo:

Clyde, I must disagree....I always remove and clean and then use anti seize. The few I have bought used would not come out. If you take em out every time and lube em they dont booger up. Its when you only do it every other time (or less) you have issues. To each his own, I was taught to remove during cleaning and all mine (bought new) will come out with an eye glass size screw driver :idunno:

 

[fishmusic]

Only when you lose the bloody thing. Always have a spare on hand.