One thing I noticed is that the flint needs to be bevel down. It appears the flint is way too high.
So do I. Then I answer myself; yeah ya dumb ass!Did I do something Stupid??
I ask myself that almost every day...
?? There are plenty of videos and articles on how to do this. Jim even has a video on it.Someone needs to do a video on tuning or fixing a lock. It seems to me no one wants to talk about it as though it’s some trade secret.
I don't ask myself that question any longer, I already know the truth and it ain't pretty.....Did I do something Stupid??
I ask myself that almost every day...
On better locks all the parts get at least surface or case hardening. Some hammers (like CVA) are often broken when folks attempt to bend them to correct nipple contact. Long ago we rehardened customers frizzens using just Casenite powder but not sure how they are now.Just a novice question here, but is the cock usually hardened, or just left as cast? On the rare times I've seen them fail, they usually break and not bend -so I've thought the frizzen and cock are both hardened.
Tried it both ways, no joy.Yes as stated before I would turn that flint around and give it a try. Looks to be hitting awfully high
I am building a 30 Ford Coupe hot rod and have done some dumb things with it already. Luckily I can weld my mistakes.So do I. Then I answer myself; yeah ya dumb ass!
In the final assembly of the Kibler SMR. Put the lock in and put a flint in the lock and was suprised that I got no spark. I checked and double checked the position of the flint and still no spark. The only thing different is that I fire blued all the exposed parts. I put no direct fire on the face of the frizzen. Could that be the problem?
I am a novice when it comes the flintlocks. Been shooting percussion for a while. Any help is appreciate.
The cock is usually left as is. If it needs to be bent, it should be bent while red hot although I have made minor tweaks with some being cold, it is risky. The cast cock can be thermal cycled which can make it a bit less prone to failure. However, if a casting has an internal void, there is no cure. It will either perform as it should or fail sooner or later. In quite a few years of experience repairing, modifying, locks, actions, and guns, I have replaced just two cocks due to breakage in the field. One percussion, one flint. Frizzens do sometimes break. They take a lot of punishment, and some are made with a stronger design than others. Frizzens require some tempering after a proper hardening to lessen the chance, but it happens. Steel casting has come a long way in the last few years and in many cases be only very slightly behind forged strength. Even for springs.Just a novice question here, but is the cock usually hardened, or just left as cast? On the rare times I've seen them fail, they usually break and not bend -so I've thought the frizzen and cock are both hardened.
I can relate. I restored/rebuilt a 65 Mustang. I learned to call my screwups "resto-mods".I am building a 30 Ford Coupe hot rod and have done some dumb things with it already. Luckily I can weld my mistakes.
That's the saddest thing I've heard today.I can relate. I restored/rebuilt a 65 Mustang. I learned to call my screwups "resto-mods".
I spent 3 years working on it and when it was pretty much done (their never really done) I was driving it to a get together and got t-boned by a guy and driven into a fireplug =Totaled.
View attachment 176041
Yeah, that happened three years ago and I'm still crying about it.That's the saddest thing I've heard today.
There are videos on disassemble and reassembling locks, but not actually fixing or tuning.?? There are plenty of videos and articles on how to do this. Jim even has a video on it.
Enter your email address to join: