• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Did I do something Stupid??

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just a novice question here, but is the cock usually hardened, or just left as cast? On the rare times I've seen them fail, they usually break and not bend -so I've thought the frizzen and cock are both hardened.
 
Yes as stated before I would turn that flint around and give it a try. Looks to be hitting awfully high
 
Just a novice question here, but is the cock usually hardened, or just left as cast? On the rare times I've seen them fail, they usually break and not bend -so I've thought the frizzen and cock are both hardened.
On better locks all the parts get at least surface or case hardening. Some hammers (like CVA) are often broken when folks attempt to bend them to correct nipple contact. Long ago we rehardened customers frizzens using just Casenite powder but not sure how they are now.
 
In the final assembly of the Kibler SMR. Put the lock in and put a flint in the lock and was suprised that I got no spark. I checked and double checked the position of the flint and still no spark. The only thing different is that I fire blued all the exposed parts. I put no direct fire on the face of the frizzen. Could that be the problem?

I am a novice when it comes the flintlocks. Been shooting percussion for a while. Any help is appreciate.

I talked to Lorie at Kibler Longrifles this morning because Jim was super busy. She said Jim will fix it so I shipped the lock off a while ago. Will let you all know what the fix was.
Thanks to all with that offered advice.
 
Just a novice question here, but is the cock usually hardened, or just left as cast? On the rare times I've seen them fail, they usually break and not bend -so I've thought the frizzen and cock are both hardened.
The cock is usually left as is. If it needs to be bent, it should be bent while red hot although I have made minor tweaks with some being cold, it is risky. The cast cock can be thermal cycled which can make it a bit less prone to failure. However, if a casting has an internal void, there is no cure. It will either perform as it should or fail sooner or later. In quite a few years of experience repairing, modifying, locks, actions, and guns, I have replaced just two cocks due to breakage in the field. One percussion, one flint. Frizzens do sometimes break. They take a lot of punishment, and some are made with a stronger design than others. Frizzens require some tempering after a proper hardening to lessen the chance, but it happens. Steel casting has come a long way in the last few years and in many cases be only very slightly behind forged strength. Even for springs.
 
I am building a 30 Ford Coupe hot rod and have done some dumb things with it already. :doh: Luckily I can weld my mistakes. 😆
I can relate. I restored/rebuilt a 65 Mustang. I learned to call my screwups "resto-mods".
I spent 3 years working on it and when it was pretty much done (their never really done) I was driving it to a get together and got t-boned by a guy and driven into a fireplug =Totaled.
IMG_2474.JPG
 
I can relate. I restored/rebuilt a 65 Mustang. I learned to call my screwups "resto-mods".
I spent 3 years working on it and when it was pretty much done (their never really done) I was driving it to a get together and got t-boned by a guy and driven into a fireplug =Totaled.
View attachment 176041
That's the saddest thing I've heard today.
 
Back
Top