• Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

draw filing

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

traceywalker

36 Cal.
Joined
Jun 8, 2008
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
GPR Kit update: Any secrets out there about draw filing a barrel? I know: not to rock the file. But do draw it lightly the length of the barrel. I'm practicing on an old barrel.
So far, I'm pretty good with wood work but....my practice draw filing isn't so hot. Just a bit concerned about mauling up the barrel
Any tips would be appreciated.
Thanks
Rangertrace
 
Don't hold the file perpendicular to the barrel. Hold it at a slight angle. That gives a little more surface area to lay the file on.
Have a pick, and file card handy. Clean that file CONSTANTLY. A tiny little metal fragment will cause a huge scratch, and be a pain to remove.
 
Some people use chalk to fill the file grooves. It gives a smoother cut. You still have to clean a lot.
 
In addition to the other excellent suggestions...hold the file close to the bbl which helps to eliminate file tilt...good luck....Fred
 
Single cut files tend to be at least 8 inches long. Choke up on the file so you can use both thumbs rubbing against the side flats of the barrel to guide the file over the flat you are filing. Turn the file to an angle to help it cut like the blade on a snow plow. Teh teeth are already angled at about 30 degrees, so just increase that angle to the length of your stroke to about 45 degrees.

I was taught to use a push stroke when draw filing, pushing away from my body. However, a pull stroke may actually give you more control. Try both and use what works for you. The teeth are designed to cut in one direction, only, so if you switch direction for the stroke, you also have to switch the file around. With a good sharp file, you don't need a lot of pressure for the file to cut. Let the edges do the cutting. If you have to put lots of pressure on that file, its a pretty good indicator that the file is dull. Replace it.

Fill the entire length of the file with chalk. Now, only file ONE stroke with each portion of the file. Move your fingers over, so that you are using a new area of the file for success strokes. That way, if any steel bits do get clogged in the teeth, they won't scratch your barrel on the next stroke. When you get down to the other end of your file, stop, use a file card to removed the steel bits, check visually to see that no bits are still stuck there( the chalk helps lubricate the teeth so they usually won't hold steel filings, and cutting at an angle tends to curl the steel removed, so that it does no " stick" in the teeth) then use a Copper or Bronze " Pick" to check and remove any steel stuck in the file.

Now, you can re-chalk the file, and continue using it on your barrel.

Some skilled craftsmen store their files chalked, but you need a very Dry storage area to get away with this practice and not have rust develop. I prefer to clean the chalk out, and then use WD40 on the file to protect it from rusting during storage.( Use alcohol to remove the WD40 before the next use. Otherwise, the chalk will " gum up" the teeth, and will fight you as you try to file the new work project.)

Always store a file in paper or plastic, or cardboard containers, so that the file does not smack against another file and damage both . Chipped teeth cannot be replaced. Bent teeth eventually break off, and now you CAN catch steel burrs that will scratch your work.

It probably would be instructive for ALL of us( Yes, me too) to have to make our FIRST file from a forging, so that we would appreciate what a fine cutting tool it is. We would take much better care of our files, and treat them like a fine straight razor we intend to shave with every morning. :hmm:

I too have done all kinds of dumb things with files, and need to replace several of mine. I remember what terrible shape they are in every time I grab one to do some filing, and the hardware stores are usually closed by then.

" Too Soon Old, Too Late Smart!" :hmm: :rotf: :hatsoff:
 
A couple more basic things...watch what you are filing, not the file...and (with regard to not put too much pressure on the file) it will tend to cut a convex pattern v.s. the flat you are wanting.

As always go slow, use full strokes (or as full as possible to avoid start/stop areas)and have FUN!
 
using a mill file, put the handle in your right hand and push, or in your left hand draw toward yourself. If you do the opposite you are working against the back of the teeth which a waste of your time and dulls your file.
Holding the file at a slight angle can give you a bit more of a shearing cut, more perpendicular will give a finer finish cut.Some barrel steels are easier to work with than others, practice on your bottom flats to get a feel for it.
 
Everyone else has pretty much given you what you need. You NEVER KNOW when that file is going to pick up a jagged piece of metal and you can have a beautiful finish and then one more stroke puts in a gouge, so wipe that file after every stroke!
And, if you have wobbly hands, make a jig or guide on either side of the barrel, that is if it's a 1" barrel- non-swamped- use 1" rails or bar stock to guarantee a level file. Of course if you are experienced you can usually skip the jig.
 
Big thanks to everyone. Getting a bit better draw filing my test barrel. All good information. I should finish up this weekend.
Rangertrace
 
I'm pretty ignorant on this. But what type of file do you use for this? How fine are the teeth? Any pictures?
 
Use a single cut flat mill file in the 8 to 10 inch length.
Do not use a double cut file which has a diamond pattern for its teeth. It is made for removing a lot of material fast and it will leave many scratches.

Another file that I like is the flat mill file that is sold for sharpening some chain saws.
I think Oregon or someone similar makes it. It has no teeth on the sides and is a very fine cut (lots of teeth). It is a bit slower than the regular mill files.
 
Back
Top