Early Lancaster 1770 .54 Cal building project

[rootnuke]

I have been reading and enjoying the many posts and good advice in this forum.

After doing much reading I ordered and have recently recieved my kit which is a Early Lancaster 1770 .54 and started to build.

I created a website area to post my progress, pictures and such. There are many many people in this forum that have forgot more than I will ever know about building a Muzzleloader. I don't have the good fortune of a teacher in person to show me all the points of building. I think the posts to the website as I go will initiate some good advise and serve as an eye over my shoulder to guide me as needed.

I have read alot about building, have plenty of tools, a good work area, plenty of lighting but that is but half of what is needed.

There is not much posted to the site as of this writing because I just started building this past July 4th weekend.

Please feel free to check my progress. I hope to include enough detail to help others and get help as I need it.

check it out here...
http://www.rootnuke.com/index.pl/early_lancaster_1770

 

[tg]

Looks like you are going to have way to much fun.... where did you get your parts? not looking to be critical but I would opt for a straighter buttplate for that early of a gun
this definitely gives a gun the "early" look, enjoy and keep us posted.

 

There's knowing how to build a Pennsylvania longrifle and then there is knowing how to illustrate things on the computer. It looks like your doing a good job learning the first and you have probably forgotten more than we will ever know on the latter. :applause: :applause: :applause:

 

[rootnuke]

The Early Lancaster kit was purchased from Track of the Wolf. Unfortunately I'm not so swift when it comes to everything that makes up early v. golden age etc.

I selected the Early Lancaster because it had clean lines and was not too ornate based on my building ability. I depended on totw to make sure it was era and school correct.

Here is the link to the kit...

http://www.trackofthewolf.com/categories/gunKit.aspx?catId=13&subId=77&styleId=268&partNum=KIT-GAC-FLINT

I don't mind to input regarding the components. As time goes I will use what I have learned as to proper parts for era's and apply that knowledge to my next gun.

 

[rootnuke]

Posted Time Log to keep track of time spent
http://www.rootnuke.com/index.pl/time_log

Posted Tang Barrel inlet section
http://www.rootnuke.com/index.pl/tang_barrel_inlet

 

[54JNoll]

Looking good but if I could made a few comments and suggestions ....

That little breakthrough is nothing to worry about. In fact it is quite common depending on the style of barrel and the lock. Many times is may also be required that you file a corner off the bottom of your barrel to accomodate the mainspring. This is done quite commonly with thin webs between the barrel and the ramrod hole.

I would suggest though that you not use a pencil to trace your inlets. You will get a much more accurate inlet and it will go much faster if you use a thin bladed exacto knife. Angle the tip slightly inwards and score the wood. This cut will also form a stop line which will help prevent splitering during wood removal. Using a pencil can result in gapping even when only cutting to the inside of the line.

Great work on the tanf finail by the way.

A shaprie works great in place of inletting black, cleanup failry easy, and is way less messy. I normally clean up the butt plate once installed in the gun. THat way when I get to the point of only small gaping (1/32 or so) I can hammer the gaps out. Then file, sand, and polish the plate. The stock become the holder. I have done it both ways and this way is much faster.

Question though ... Have you inlet the lock and triggers yet? When working from a blank the order is inlet barrel and tang, inlet lock, inlet triggers with respect to the sear bar on the lock, measure for length of pull, inlet butt plate for desired LOP. I ask this not to be critcal its just that I would hate for you to find out that your LOP is too long as precut from the factory and you end up re-fitting the butt plate.

All in all though it looks as though you are going a great job and you will end up with a rifle to be proud of.

Books that I found usefull are: "The Gunsmith of Greenville County" and "Recreating the American Long Rifle"

 

[rootnuke]

I have both of the books you suggested and am using them. I will post your suggestion regarding the X-acto knife in leu of and or alternate to a pencil to mark the tang.

The stock already had the barrel and lock inlet from the factory, however there is no inlet for the trigger.

I will be using a double set as pictured in the Kit Parts section.

I will not get my lock in until the middle of next week (July 23) so I cannot inlet the trigger.

The plan is that one once I get the lock in I will mount it in the existing inlet. As I seat the lock I will make a judgement call as to the position of my barrel depth, the lock position and how all that relates to my trigger position.

I will have to look at a bunch of pictures and to alot of reading to make sure I get everything lined up right.

In the mean time until the lock arrives I am finishing brass parts, reading and experimenting with graving.

I also don't know whether I want to go wooden patch box or brass. I don't know which one would be the most authentic.

I see many plain wood patch boxes that are on curly maple stocks. I think that the only way I will talk myself into a wooden patch box is if I can get it to have a curl grain also to match. I just don't like plain maple against curly maple. I like the same grain.

 

[54JNoll]

Since you have both those books you probably already know that you will want to inlet the double triggers such that the "V" formed by both trigger bars is the point of contact with the sear bar.

Let me recommend that you proceed with a brass patch box. Earlier guns generally had wooden boxes while later guns had fancier brass boxes. Simple brass lids with a simple finail bridge both ends of the spectrum from early to late guns. Also some builders whether buy personal or customer preference built wooden lids through the Golden period.

The difficulty you will have with a wooden lid at this point is in matching the curl in width, tightness, and direction. In addition different pieces of maple take stain different. Therefore, the best way to make a wooden lid match the existing curl of your stock is to get your lid from the same blank. Easiest done by starting with a blank. Therefore brass will be easiest with repect to your desires. Wooden lids are easily lost and often originals have had the lid replaced through the years. Which would explain the difference you are seeing.

 

[rootnuke]

Posted pages for triggerguard and rod hardware, filing, sanding, polishing and preperation.

http://www.rootnuke.com/index.pl/early_lancaster_1770

 

[tg]

I fell into the same trap myself and used the Bivins buttplate, after some research I found other flatter choices would be better, The key is to forget what the supplier tells you and dig out the books and look at the originals that is where I have gone in this journey, you will have a very nice gun when finished, mine is similar with a 44" .50 barrel, no patchbox, simple incise moulding along forestock terminating in C scroll and simple incise scroll carving behind the cheekpiece, and an older era English import round faced lock, that I reasoned would have saved some money by providing a lock off a gun I already had if I had commisioned a gunmaker to build this gun in the past. keep up the good work.

 

[rootnuke]

Bought a little 6" grinder with a cloth polishing wheel and some Jewelers Rouge....

I gotta tell you, thats the darndest thing I have ever seen. It polished the brass furniture to a mirror finish. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cool.gif

WOW!

 

[LSU TIGER]

STOP NOW! It will be too late before you know it!!! :: :shocking: Then, you'll have to build another, and another...

Seriously, I use a grinder for sharpening chisels and gouges, too. I use a Sears variable speed model with a felt wheel and red compound from Home Depot. Use the slowest speed, and touching up the edge will be a snap.

 

[rootnuke]

Added trigger inlet installation
http://www.rootnuke.com/index.pl/trigger_inlet

Added tang bolt installation
http://www.rootnuke.com/index.pl/tang_bolt

Updated time log.

Some needed detail not included, just basic description of photo's and process.

 

[rootnuke]

This past weekend I accomplished the following;

Inlet forestock rod furniture

Butt & Toe plate drilled, toe plate inlet and both mounted to stock butt.

Triggerguard inlet and ready to pin, trigger assembly drilled for mounting screw. Minor stock shaping.

 

[54JNoll]

Nice job. Lining up the screw slots is a nice touch also.

So have you started planning your next project yet?

He He ... its too late now you done been bit by the "building" bug.