Ever Wonder 'Bout Butter Lube?

[arcticap]

I started using Traditions Wonderlube 1000 Plus before I ever tried TC Natural Lube 1000 Plus Bore Butter.
I haven't bought any Wonderlube since Kmart stopped selling it locally, and now Walmart has stopped selling Bore Butter here too.
I'm not sure if they are exactly the same formula or not, but for some reason I imagined that Wonderlube had just a slightly lower (thinner) viscosity and spread more easily. But it also could have just been that one last tube that I bought.
But I have always liked the name Wonderlube more than Bore Butter. :grin:
Aren't they both made by the same manufacturer (Ox Yoke)? :winking:
Does anyone else unexplainably prefer using one name over the other? :haha:
Do the 2 different trademark names create any confusion among BP shooters even though they are both apparently very similiar?
Or Is one product somehow different and better than the other? :hmm:

 

[Juice Jaws]

Just like you when they quite making Wonder Lube went to Bore Butter. Use all the time and really like it. Use it inside and out. Works for me.
ranger632

 

[J.D.]

Nope, they are one in the same.

Here is what a friend who is a chemist asys about wonderlube/borebutter.

"The lube consists of paraffin wax melted into USP heavy mineral oil. To that is added an oil soluble dye to give it color.
Also added is a synthetic oil of wintergreen. This is where the food grade ingredient thing comes from. Except that oil of wintergreen is not a food grade item since it is somewhat toxic. Tincture of wintergreen would be food grade.
The thing about a magic additive that "micronizes" the lube is a bit of fiction. Paraffin wax is a hard, brittle crystalline wax. The addition of a small amount of a particular type of fossil wax, made in Germany, will reduce the size of the crystals formed in solidified paraffin wax but certainly nothing on the order of a micron size which would be indicated by the term micronized. The German's pioneered the use of this modified paraffin wax (using the "micronizer") back in the late 19th century as a way of making paraffin waxes acceptable in skin care preparations, replacing petrolatum wax.

If you don't want the oil of wintergreen odor you can make your own version by buying blocks of paraffin wax sold for use in canning and USP mineral oil.

I am still not fond of the grease-like lubes based on paraffin wax. As long as the surface temperature of the bore is above the melting point of the paraffin wax you can stand there and easily reload the gun. When the surface of the bore
drops below the melt point of the wax you have a film of hard wax that almost glues the fouling to the metal. An historic feat then involves getting the 3rd or 4th round down the bore without having to beat it down the bore."

 

[Halftail]

I wonder if anyone has ever tried to eat it? :winking:

 

[bpbrs]

Humm sounds like the old paraffin free refrigerant oils.. :hmm:

 

[J.D.]

I've seen teenagers eat it for the attention it gets them. It didn't seem to hurt 'em, at least not right away.

I can imagine how it cleaned 'em out though. :haha:

 

[Toomuch_36]

Nope, they are one in the same.

Yep. They were developed in a joint effort by T/C, Ox-Yoke and Hogden. Each partner has their own "trade name", but it all comes out of the same vat and is poured into different containers.

Toomuch
............
Shoot Flint

 

[Stumpkiller]

I have a red plastic container (taller than it is wide) of "Wonderlube" from maybe 20+ years ago. It was white and smelled of mutton tallow and didn't work for s**t (I always forget how to spell "spit"). It was an awful lube. You didn't load without a short starter, even after wiping after each shot. Unfortunately, that experience kept me from enjoying the more recent mixtures for many years.

Whan I can shoot ten times without needing to wipe the bore I am a happy shooter.

 

[stevebert1]

I have been using Lube 103 exclusively in my rifle, at the recommendation of the shop that sold me the rifle. It seems to work ok, but I don't have any experience with anything else. What does everyone think of Lube 103?

 

[roundball]

I have a red plastic container (taller than it is wide) of "Wonderlube" from maybe 20+ years ago. It was white

Heck Stumpy that probably wasn't wonderlube...sounds like it was one of those push-up sticks of "butch wax" from back when you had a crew cut !!!!!!!
:grin:

 

[Rebel]

You mean back when he had Hair. :rotf:

 

[Stophel]

When I read the title of this topic thread I thought you were asking about using BUTTER for patch lube (hey, that's what it says). Actually, I don't see why butter wouldn't work just fine! :winking:

 

Parkay!!! :rotf:

 

Actually it is Abietic Acid. Its chemical structure is C 79.42% H 9.99% O 10.58% A widely available organic acid, prepared by the isomerization of rosin. Insoluable in water. soluable in alcohol, benzene, chloroform, ether, acetone, or carbon disulfide. I would suggest alcohol in cleaning. Commercial abietic acid made by heating rosin alone or with acids may be glassy or partly crystalline, usually of yellow color and melting as low as 85 degrees. USE: Manufacture of (ester gums, eg., methyl, vinal and glyceryl esters for use with laquers and varnishes. Manufacturing of "metal resinates", soaps, PLASTICS (wich is why they don't want you to use gun oil), because it will plasticize in the bore with the petroleum and heat. When the "blunderers" :blah: of previous Ox-Yoke owned it they advertised it as "safe enough to eat". I think that's where some of the posts on eating it is coming from. Not recommended. The oil of wintergreen is toxic and according to the Merck Index of Chemicals, Drugs, and Biologicals .10 ml can cause fatality. Bring a bag of potato chips on post If you're hungry. At the time, and I can tell you from experience, dumb and dumber thought the wintergreen oil was the same thing you put in Christmas cookies or breath fresheners...Go figure.

 

[Stumpkiller]

I guarantee that if you butter your toast with Moose Snot you'll see more than your life pass before your eyes and be SCRAMing from both ends before any permanent harm can befall you. :rotf:

Castor oil and soap makes heap big purgative.

 

[musketman]

When I read the title of this topic thread I thought you were asking about using BUTTER for patch lube (hey, that's what it says). Actually, I don't see why butter wouldn't work just fine! :winking:

Parkay!!! :rotf:

That would leave no margarine for error... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

 

[fw707]

Musketman, that one was way beneath your potential. :rotf:

 

[roundball]

Actually it is Abietic Acid. Its chemical structure is C 79.42% H 9.99% O 10.58% A widely available organic acid, prepared by the isomerization of rosin. Insoluable in water. soluable in alcohol, benzene, chloroform, ether, acetone, or carbon disulfide. I would suggest alcohol in cleaning. Commercial abietic acid made by heating rosin alone or with acids may be glassy or partly crystalline, usually of yellow color and melting as low as 85 degrees. USE: Manufacture of (ester gums, eg., methyl, vinal and glyceryl esters for use with laquers and varnishes. Manufacturing of "metal resinates", soaps, PLASTICS (wich is why they don't want you to use gun oil), because it will plasticize in the bore with the petroleum and heat. When the "blunderers" :blah: of previous Ox-Yoke owned it they advertised it as "safe enough to eat". I think that's where some of the posts on eating it is coming from. Not recommended. The oil of wintergreen is toxic and according to the Merck Index of Chemicals, Drugs, and Biologicals .10 ml can cause fatality. Bring a bag of potato chips on post If you're hungry. At the time, and I can tell you from experience, dumb and dumber thought the wintergreen oil was the same thing you put in Christmas cookies or breath fresheners...Go figure.

You seem well versed on this subject and it sounds[url] like...in[/url] spite of TC's statement that all the ingredients in Natural Lube 1000 are non-toxic, food grade rated, and biodegradable...that it's something that can harm, if not kill...it might be best if you write TC and bring it to their attention.

 

I aready have, they consider me the enemy. :shake:

Actually it is Abietic Acid. Its chemical structure is C 79.42% H 9.99% O 10.58% A widely available organic acid, prepared by the isomerization of rosin. Insoluable in water. soluable in alcohol, benzene, chloroform, ether, acetone, or carbon disulfide. I would suggest alcohol in cleaning. Commercial abietic acid made by heating rosin alone or with acids may be glassy or partly crystalline, usually of yellow color and melting as low as 85 degrees. USE: Manufacture of (ester gums, eg., methyl, vinal and glyceryl esters for use with laquers and varnishes. Manufacturing of "metal resinates", soaps, PLASTICS (wich is why they don't want you to use gun oil), because it will plasticize in the bore with the petroleum and heat. When the "blunderers" :blah: of previous Ox-Yoke owned it they advertised it as "safe enough to eat". I think that's where some of the posts on eating it is coming from. Not recommended. The oil of wintergreen is toxic and according to the Merck Index of Chemicals, Drugs, and Biologicals .10 ml can cause fatality. Bring a bag of potato chips on post If you're hungry. At the time, and I can tell you from experience, dumb and dumber thought the wintergreen oil was the same thing you put in Christmas cookies or breath fresheners...Go figure.

You seem well versed on this subject and it sounds[url] like...in[/url] spite of TC's statement that all the ingredients in Natural Lube 1000 are non-toxic, food grade rated, and biodegradable...that it's something that can harm, if not kill...it might be best if you write TC and bring it to their attention.

 

It's not Parkay. The new wonder lube will be called "I can't believe it's not Bore Butter!" :winking:

When I read the title of this topic thread I thought you were asking about using BUTTER for patch lube (hey, that's what it says). Actually, I don't see why butter wouldn't work just fine! :winking:

Parkay!!! :rotf:

That would leave no margarine for error... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: